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FrancoB

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I picked up a pair of Vewlix Dia Blues recently and a few people have asked me to post what I’m up to and I could do with some input along the way too so here goes. Feel free to skip the backstory and head for the pictures!

I wanted a pair of Vewlix’s, one hori and one tate so I don’t need to mess about rotating screens as they’re not the quickest thing to rotate. I contacted Mo @ Videotronics and he said he had loads of Vewlix C and F’s in stock and he said he had a few Blues left. I really like the look of the Blues so I arranged a date to go over and see them. I got a van booked as I planned on picking them up whilst I was there. A couple of days before I went up he found that he only had three left. I was a bit apprehensive of not having many to choose from but he sent me some pictures and I could see there was no major damage etc so I decided to continue as planned and make the journey up to him.

I set off at about 7.30am to the van hire place where I had booked a Luton with a tail lift from. I picked the van up, transferred a load of cushions/duvets into the van and set off to make the 160mile ~3hr drive from Bicester to Bradford. I got 15 minutes up the road in the van before realising I had left my tools and more importantly my ratchet straps in my car X/ There was no way I was risking transporting the cabs without them so I turned round and went back to pick them up. Half an hour later I was back on the motorway but this time with the ratchet straps. I had given myself plenty of time to get up there so it wasn’t a problem. I had a steady drive up the M1 and had one stop at the services and got to Mos bang on when I should have been.
I’ve known Mo for years and have done work for him so it was great to put a face to a name. He showed me the three Blues he had left that were dotted around his unit. One of them had quite a green faded side panel which I can only assume was sun damage so that one was out of the equation for a start. That just left two but after a quick look over they both looked to be in pretty nice condition, I could see a few marks here and there but there was nothing to put me off which was a relief.

One of the cabs had a JVS IO and one had a Fast IO. I assumed they would both be Fast IO (tbh I’m not sure what they would have originally come with, I know the Blacks came with nothing) but actually I thought one of each would give me some flexibility.

Next was firing the cabs up. We fired the first one up with a TTX2 connected and one of the cab fans was really noisy, no biggie, that can be changed . We couldn’t see any sign of life on the monitor though, greeeeeat. We metered the power cable and there was 100v going to the end of the IEC C13 cable so it wasn’t that. We power cycled the cab and checked other connections but nada. We left that cab and headed over to the other non green cab. We turned that one on and the monitor turned on but it was showing ‘No Signal’. We messed around with the OSD but we couldn’t get anything to show. We then tried the TTX2 on a nearby Vewlix F and that displayed fine. We went back to the first cab and tried it again but we still didn’t get a picture. At this point the cab was still partially covered with wrapping film and the top corner of the screen was covered. Whilst bent down I power cycled the cab and noticed something on screen in the top corner. We pulled back the film and could see it said ‘FAN ERROR’ -_-

Mo had seen this before on a cab he sold to @Tonybolony and after checking some messages we could see that the cab and monitor needed to be stripped down and in Tonys case the fan needed cleaning. We went back over to the other machine but we still couldn’t get a picture, even with a mobile test signal generator. After the initial relief of seeing the cabs in good nick I was a bit down thinking I might go home with an empty van. I had been at Mo’s ages at this point when it should have been a fairly quick test and load. We had a bit of a chat and came up with a plan. I decided I would take both of the cabs. It seems like at minimum the cab with the FAN ERROR would need some work. Mo knocked some money off for me for the trouble of dealing with that and said we would sort things out further if I couldn’t get either of the monitors working.

We loaded the cabs up and protected them with the duvets and cushions I had packed and tied them down with the ratchet straps. I’m so glad I went back for them as they would have got destroyed sliding around in the back of the van. I set off down south again after filling the van up again with some very expensive diesel at the height of the fuel shortage in March. I took a detour and stopped briefly at my parents in Lincoln to pick up a mountain bike and after a very wet drive home I got back at about 6.45pm. The tail lift made light work of unloading the cabs on my own and I put them in my garage where they would stay whilst I did some further tests, strip and clean them before taking them up to my office.

Here's a pic after dropping them off. I ordered a UK-JA0750 from Airlink and that been delivered whilst I was out so that was a nice bit of timing. Both cabs came with pictured original marquee holders and one manual.

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Whilst taking a closer look at the cabs I noticed that the serials were actually sequential!

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The cabs had been no where near each other at Mo’s and it had been pure luck that these were the two in the best nick and were chosen. I thought it was a nice touch that these two came of the production line one after the other and they were still together after travelling to the other side of the world.

The next day I hooked a laptop up the cab that didn’t have the FAN ERROR and I was pleased to see that I got an image straight away.

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Next up was stripping the cabs. I wanted to strip them to clean them and to also make them much lighter and smaller to take upstairs. I’ve got a 90 degree corner on my stairs and so I made a cardboard cut out of the foot print of a stripped cab to ensure I could get them upstairs prior to buying them.

i-QGs4qXf-M.jpg


:D

I used @Penrhos’s Vewlix disassembly guide (Part 1) (Part 2) to strip the cabs and I separated all of the bolts etc into marked bags to make assembly easier.
I stripped the cabs down as far as possible without removing the wiring looms in the base. These are the first Vewlix’s I’ve had and I wanted to keep the base wiring in whilst I get familiar with everything. I didn’t want to rip it all out and struggle to get it all back in and it would make troubleshooting trickier too. I wanted to get them out of the garage pretty quickly so I thought I could always strip the wiring out at a later date and clean the looms then if required.

I didn’t take many photos whilst stripping the cabs but they were pretty filthy on the inside. They were thick with dust and there was a lovely layer of nicotine where the fans had drawn air through the cabs.

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For cleaning the metal parts of the cabs I used [this] solvent free degreaser which worked really well and was cheap to boot. All of the plastics got a soapy wash in the sink.

I got a lift upstairs with the cabs and they were super easy to get up once stripped.

i-42BCh9F-XL.jpg


Next up was looking at the monitor with the FAN ERROR. I stripped the monitor down and found the fan had missing blades which I'm guessing caused a change in the RPMs, or caused it to stop completely and the monitor then shut down. More details on this and the fix [here].

I assembled the cabs and stuck a X360 and Switch in for their first full frontal glamour shot:

i-jkcrX9Q-X2.jpg


Note at this point the stepdown was just running the monitors, the consoles were powered via an additional extension lead out the back. I didn't have any audio setup and the controls were not connected, still it didn't stop me playing for a bit with a control pad 8)

The control panels still want stripping down and cleaning, I didn't have time to do that, I just needed to concentrate on getting the cabs out of the garage. I'll probably do that when I rewire the CPs.

The cabs have a few dings and scratches here and there but it's nothing major and certainly nothing that I intend to fix, they've had a life in an arcade after all. Otherwise, plans for the cabs are:

*Power - Sort a power strip out so that everything in the cabs runs from one 100v power cable. (Complete)
*Control Panels - Both cabs have 1L7B panels with AIME card readers that I'm not a fan of. Order replacements for both (In progress)
*Control Interfaces - I plan on using a mix of original hardware, PCs and consoles in the cabs so I'll need interfaces to support all of those. (Complete)
*Audio - I'm leaving the stock speakers as is currently. I just need to get an analogue signal to the taito amp. (Complete)
*Monitors - I'll upgrade the monitors eventually but I'm not in a rush at the moment.
*Sub panel - Procure sub panels for the additional console buttons required. A volume control and headphone jack would be useful also. (In progress)
*1000 other things I'm forgetting....

That's enough for one post. I'll upload some more photos and continue....
 
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*Power

So, I wanted to only have one 100v power lead coming from the cabinet which means everything in it needs to take 100v. PCs are ~100>230v, as is my Switch. My 360 slim PSU was 230v only though. Fortunately cools had just been though similar and found some 3rd party slim PSUs that were multi voltage so I picked one up. [This] is the one I got.

All of these have UK plugs on so I would need to install a UK powerstrip but power it from 100v from inside the cab. I looked in the back and there was the perfect place for a power strip right at the back:

i-hpQhRqd-XL.jpg


There was even some M3 tapped holes which looked to be in an ideal place too. Originally I planned on running the power strip from the Service Outlet but this is only rated for 4A and I didn't really fancy running a PC etc from this:

i-JRVPqXs-M.jpg


Instead, I decided to run it from the LHS of the filter:

i-zHB6svp-X2.jpg


I bought some power strips and added piggy back spade and ring terminals to the wires. I printed some brackets so I could screw them to the base of the cab with those M3 holes.

i-ZSmbZxq-X2.jpg


The terminals then hooked up to the filter and I grounded the earth ring terminal to an earth point.

i-GwJ3Qg6-X2.jpg


Job done:

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The cabs didn't come with any kind of Taito DC PSU for 3.3v/5v/12v that I would need for JVS games. I stuck a wanted up and my boy cools hooked me up with a Lindbergh 400-5457-01 PSU.

I had a few spare LED voltmeters so I made a housing for them to keep an eye on the output. The PSU also had some conveniently located M3 holes that I could use for mounting.

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The print files for those are [here] should anyone need them.
 
Nice score with the cab serials!
I'm told originally from Taito cabs were sold in a minimum of 4 qty.
So it was very possible to get a "series" of machines from the factory.

Maybe some day we could get a public database up where people could record cab serial numbers (name/approx. date purchased/location).
I think it would be fun to track where some of these have ended up.
 
That's interesting to know! Yes, it would make interesting reading to see which cabs ended where.

*Control Interfaces - It's ages since I bought any kind of control interfaces. The last ones I bought were PS360+s which are fine for X360/PC etc but not for Switch and anything else modern. A bit of a look around showed that Brook UFBs were the thing to get. @invzim also sorted me out with a JVS-PAC2 so I wanted to get that installed as well.

This is the inside of the CPs pretty much 'stock'. The JVS board is in the tate cab and the Fast IO is in the hori:

i-5jKLBmp-X2.jpg


i-xt3vRKK-X2.jpg


They're a bit untidy as you can see. I need to get rid of the original panels wiring, including the AIME stuff. Bizarrely the CP looms terminate in AMP UP connectors which then fit to the JST YL connectors with some AMP UP > YL adapters. Are these originally Sega looms then.... is this a 'thing'?

I wanted to use some of [Arthrimus's Vewlix Console I/O V3.1 interfaces] for the Brooks but there doesn't seem to have been stock for some time so I thought I would do something myself.

I decided to mount the Brook UFBs on top of the IOs and I made some mounts for them with M3 insert nuts to mount the hardware to:

i-T4nLXdN-X2.jpg


i-xzzd6G4-X2.jpg


If needed, the print files for these are [here].

Next up was looms for them. In the absence of the Arthrimus boards I thought the next best thing would be to make looms with JST YL connectors on the end that the CP looms can be plugged into. I decided to use the 20pin 'dupont' header rather than the screw terminals.

i-vfbXLn2-X3.jpg


That's one of the P1 looms. The 15pin YL has the standard joystick, start, B1-B6 wires and GND. The 2pin YL has B7 and B8. The four pin from the other sub loom is for the sub panel controls, one of which is the touchpad button that's terminated at the JST PH connector.

Rise and repeat for the other looms. The P2 looms have the reverse gender YLs.

i-qJtDCHG-X2.jpg


Installed in the hori cab:

i-4Dbd24N-X3.jpg


Installed in the tate cab:

i-sJgghW2-X3.jpg


The original plan for the JVS-PAC2 was to mount it at the end of the Brook UFB mount:

i-6NWLwpT-X3.jpg


However, I plan to install a sub panel and realised that the buttons in the sub panel would foul on the JVS-PAC2:

i-ZcFdB4J-X2.jpg


So, instead I made a smaller mount:

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Which bolts to another part of the IO tray:

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JVS-PAC2 mounted:

i-Ckg5rgC-X3.jpg


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If needed, the print files for these are [here].



I've also got a Sega JVS Type 3 IO to mount for something else I have in mind but that's probably going to require swapping the IO tray out, we'll see.....

I've got some more photos to upload but they'll need to wait until tomorrow.....
 
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Wow! Yes please share these totally awesome spacers for stacking IO boards. :D
I LOVE what you've done here, and the cherry on top is the freaking JVSPAC2 (incredible)!
 
Lovely stuff FrancoB. You've always been a huge inspiration for tidy installs and elegant mod work that respects the original cab; excited to see where these cabs end up!
 
Dude awesome! Mind sharing some stls?
Wow! Yes please share these totally awesome spacers for stacking IO boards. :D
I LOVE what you've done here, and the cherry on top is the freaking JVSPAC2 (incredible)!

Thanks! And yes, always more than happy to share. I had been meaning to upload them anyway, just got 1000x things on the go as per.... Thanks fore the nudge.

I've uploaded them to Printables, linked to them in the above post and added them to the [3D Printed & CAD/CAM Arcade Parts sub forum]

[Taito Vewlix Brook UFB & JVS-PAC2 Mounts]

[Taito Vewlix JVS-PAC2 Mount]

Those are some clean spacers and looms.
Lovely stuff FrancoB. You've always been a huge inspiration for tidy installs and elegant mod work that respects the original cab; excited to see where these cabs end up!
Thanks! You do know how to make a girl blush :love:


I've got a few more things finished that I can post and I'll try an post up to date progress as I go now that I've got that glut done.
 
Why thank you kind sir ^^

On a kinda side-project related tip, I've just about finished a heat insert press I've been working on.

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It's based on a design I saw on [Vector 3Ds] YT channel. I modelled it up from scratch and improved upon and added a few things. It's great to use and it's sooo satisfying accurately plunging your hot nuts into a gaping hole :whistling: I've got a couple of parts I want to refine and then I'm going to create a BOM and upload the parts.

More blue t-moulding to come..... :D
 
*Audio - So analogue audio from Naomi/ TTX / PC to the Taito amp is easy as they all have a 3.5mm jack or RCAs. You can also use the 3.5mm jack on the Switch but it's another cable to manage and you're even more limited on X360 etc. A bit of a google showed people were using HDMI audio extractors so I went down that route. It ended up being a bit of a pain as I ended up buying three different versions before I found one I was happy with.

#1 - [ebay cheapy] - Think I paid about £9 each for these. Well, I could barely get these to work. Only one in 20 times of using them would I get any HDMI signal being passed though. It wasn't just on the cabs, I tested it on a couple of PC monitors too and they behaved the same so they soon were returned.

#2 - [eSynic version from Amazon] - These were about £17 each. I had to admit I bought these in a bit of a hurry to replace the ebay ones. I had a quick scan though and they looked to support 4K. I'm not running anything 4K at the moment, nor do I have 4K monitors but I wanted to future proof a little. Now, these worked perfectly, but a closer look at the documentation when they arrived showed they support 4K devices....but only if you set the output to 1080P X/ :cursing: So, they soon went back.

#3 [OREI version from Amazon] - These were about £25 each. These worked fine and look to properly support 4K. The power adapter for these was multivoltage so I plugged it into the 100V power strip. The only thing I found with these is that sometimes I wouldn't get a video signal. I think when they're powered on the audio extractor checks for a input source and then outputs a signal and turning everything on at the same time didn't always work. I did find if I turned the extractor on a few seconds after the cab/monitor then it worked every time. I didn't want to manually do this every time I turned the cab on so I found some cheap [DC 5V Delay Relay Shield NE555 Timer Switch Modules] on ebay which can set a delay from 0-10 seconds.

I made some mounts to hold both the extractor and switch modules. I used blue as it was just what was in the printer at the time:

i-bnM4kkr-X2.jpg


The relays needed 5V on the coil side and I was switching 5V on the contact side so I just bridged those on the underside:

i-4KzWNgC-X2.jpg


The rest of the relay etc was wired up to suit. I added a manual switch so that I could power cycle the extractor should I need to:

i-Bt5bP9k-X2.jpg


There was a couple of handy screws on the inside of the cabinet where the leg plastics are screwed on so I used these to mount the assembly out of the way in unused space.

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I just need to get some longer 3.5mm cables to neaten them up.

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The switch was mounted in the service panel in an unused hole. I made a little bushing to take up the slack:

i-mmsKqgN-X2.jpg


I've made two versions of these, with and without the mount for the relay switch and they can be downloaded [here].

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Currently the audio is going directly to the Taito Amp but I'm planning on sending it to a sub panel on the CP so I can adjust the volume and also send it to headphones with the idea being that it cuts the cab audio when the headphones are inserted. I'm just working on this at the moment, more to follow on that later....
 
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Damn these are so awesome!

I would love to work with you on some Vewlix designs/mounts I've wanted for years (I have no 3D design experience).

Short list...
  • OSSC internal mount
    EyhKuqR.jpg
  • Sega Type 3 JVS / Taito JVS dual IO mount (now plus that fantastic JVSPAC2 add-on)
    j7kI0c3.jpg
  • Mean Well PSU internal mount (same foot print as the Wei Ya JVS PSU)
    1CZv1L2.jpg
 
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Awesome stuff as always brother. <3 :thumbsup:
Thanks man! Progress has been slow but starting to tick a few things off...

Damn these are so awesome!

I would love to work with you on some Vewlix designs/mounts I've wanted for years (I have no 3D design experience).

Short list...
  • OSSC internal mount
  • Sega Type 3 JVS / Taito JVS dual IO mount (now plus that fantastic JVSPAC2 add-on)
  • Mean Well PSU internal mount (same foot print as the Wei Ya JVS PSU)

Glad you approve :D Sure thing, I'm always more than happy to work on things with people. I've got a few things on the go with others that I need to get out the way first but it would be great to have look with you after that. Feel free to drop me a PM and we can look to get some initial information together at least :thumbup:
 
I have been working on another little side project whilst working on the cabs, thought I may as well post it here rather than start a new thread as it's going to be mounted above the cabs anyway...

I've got this original Donpachi marquee that I've had for years and I used to display it on the top of the architrave above a door:

i-MkZnszx-X2.jpg


I always wanted to display it properly in a light box so I made one for it.

i-mwvSPb5-X2.jpg


It's a woody marquee so I made a woody style light box with the left over t-moulding from the insert press.

I used 12v white LEDs to light the marquee:

i-5pbDsp7-X2.jpg


And I mounted a 12V blue LED strip on the back for some underskirt lighting which should light up the wall beneath it.

i-SKJ6Cgm-X2.jpg


On the bottom there's a switch plate I printed to turn the LEDs on/off independently. I added a French cleat which will marry up to one mounted to the wall.

i-CSrHdDm-X2.jpg


I need to sort out a few other things first and then I can get it mounted above the cabs.
 
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Glad to see you're still at it Franco, looking awesome, especially the new insides of the CP's, great work as always! :D
 
I have been working on another little side project whilst working on the cabs, thought I may as well post it here rather than start a new thread as it's going to be mounted above the cabs anyway...

I've got this original Donpachi marquee that I've had for years and I used to display it on the top of the architrave above a door:

i-MkZnszx-X2.jpg


I always wanted to display it properly in a light box so I made one for it.

i-mwvSPb5-X2.jpg


It's a woody marquee so I made a woody style light box with the left over t-moulding from the insert press.

I used 12v white LEDs to light the marquee:

i-5pbDsp7-X2.jpg


And I mounted a 12V blue LED strip on the back for some underskirt lighting which should light up the wall beneath it.

i-SKJ6Cgm-X2.jpg


On the bottom there's a switch plate I printed to turn the LEDs on/off independently. I added a French cleat which will marry up to one mounted to the wall.

i-CSrHdDm-X2.jpg


I need to sort out a few other things first and then I can get it mounted above the cabs.

Beautiful work. This exactly what I been trying to do for a 1945 strikers III marquee. Love it man.
 
It's based on a design I saw on [Vector 3Ds] YT channel. I modelled it up from scratch and improved upon and added a few things. It's great to use and it's sooo satisfying accurately plunging your hot nuts into a gaping hole :whistling: I've got a couple of parts I want to refine and then I'm going to create a BOM and upload the parts.

More blue t-moulding to come..... :D
Be keeping an eye out for this, that looks awesome. I'm over free handing inserts and ending up with flogged out holes from excessive adjustment.
 
You always do such clean, fantastic work, Franco. 👍 I would be lying if I said I didn’t learn clean cabling and mod work from you. 😉
 
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