DARKSOFT The Definitive Guide to Fixing Your CPS2 Multi Kit
- Thread starter xodaraP
- Start date
cruzlink2
Grand Master
I am sure but I was not gonna take them out one by one by one, I had enough so I said fuck it shotgun!.
Usually an EEPROM error, means that the problem is with A or B Board. Do you have another one to try on?
I have a spare A board (with some garbled graphics) from my old house, will fetch it during the weekend for some testing and report findings.
Moonwalker
Professional
So I have a Champion Multi with the suggested B board.
Installed everything (JST Key cable not yet) and have the correct roms for testing. I can choose a game and can hear the sound of the game, but only get a dark green screen. It is actually very, very dark green, please check the pics below.
The used B board was a suicided (or maybe broken?) Zero 3 with battery leakage. I exchanged the roms to another board and they were ok.
I attached pictures of the pcb below as well.
I saw many people reporting a green screen and fixing it by different approaches. I tried all that make sense in this case, but this one:
EXC5 may need to be temporarily shorted to remove keys that not been flushed
The question now is, is it a problem with the Darksoft installation or is the B board broken.
Since it boots up and plays sound it seems more likely, doesn´t it?
If is the corrosion damage, is it still fixable?
Any help would be appreciated.
Installed everything (JST Key cable not yet) and have the correct roms for testing. I can choose a game and can hear the sound of the game, but only get a dark green screen. It is actually very, very dark green, please check the pics below.
The used B board was a suicided (or maybe broken?) Zero 3 with battery leakage. I exchanged the roms to another board and they were ok.
I attached pictures of the pcb below as well.
I saw many people reporting a green screen and fixing it by different approaches. I tried all that make sense in this case, but this one:
EXC5 may need to be temporarily shorted to remove keys that not been flushed
The question now is, is it a problem with the Darksoft installation or is the B board broken.
Since it boots up and plays sound it seems more likely, doesn´t it?
If is the corrosion damage, is it still fixable?
Any help would be appreciated.
I’m assuming the donor Board wasn’t checked as working before installing the multi onto it?
In that case, and given the battery leaked, that will be the most likely culprit unfortunately.
You could try shorting EXC5. But more importantly ensure you’re using a decrypted set.
In that case, and given the battery leaked, that will be the most likely culprit unfortunately.
You could try shorting EXC5. But more importantly ensure you’re using a decrypted set.
Also, install the key wire and see if that makes any difference.
If you can try install the multi on the other confirmed working board, that will give you a clearer idea of what's going on.
If you can try install the multi on the other confirmed working board, that will give you a clearer idea of what's going on.
xodaraP
Legendary
If you have another B board you can use for the multi that would be the way to go. That board needs to be sent to someone who can check it over and repair it
The battery damage isn’t bad and I think it will be salvageable.
Looking at it briefly
- D1 is missing
- D5 is corroded and very likely dead
- 10M has had a trace repaired, but the chip may be damaged. There is also damage to the mask and possibly the substrate pins 11-15
- 10L should also be removed to check for corroded traces and clean up any damage
- Capacitor next to D5 is likely corroded and should be replaced
- Filter cap on the edge of the board is missing
The battery damage isn’t bad and I think it will be salvageable.
Looking at it briefly
- D1 is missing
- D5 is corroded and very likely dead
- 10M has had a trace repaired, but the chip may be damaged. There is also damage to the mask and possibly the substrate pins 11-15
- 10L should also be removed to check for corroded traces and clean up any damage
- Capacitor next to D5 is likely corroded and should be replaced
- Filter cap on the edge of the board is missing
Moonwalker
Professional
No, I couldnt check the B board. Could you explain how to shorten the EXC please?
As the multi loads games and I can hear the sound, it is quite likely that the b board is at fault, right?
Thank you very much. This confirms that the B board should be the culprit, right?
xodaraP
Legendary
Without a working A and B set there is no way to tell for sure. But given the damage to your B board that would be the starting point
AlxUnderBase
Enlightened
By shorting the EXC 5 capacitor mean to put a screwdriver who will touch simultaneously the both pins for few seconds of that location capacitor . something like in the image i attached
(you can do it , its easy)ps : when you short EXC 5 capacitor , the power of the board/ boards should be OFF
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Moonwalker
Professional
Thank you. A board is working without problems.
Thank you very much! I need to power on the PCB at that time, right?By shorting the EXC 5 capacitor mean to put a screwdriver who will touch simultaneously the both pins for few seconds of that location capacitor . something like in the image i attached
PCB off and unplugged when shorting EXC5.
No! you would be frying some chips as you'll be making a shortcut.
Moonwalker
Professional
Alright, thank you!
Moonwalker
Professional
OK, so the board was broken and got repaired. Everything works perfectly now. Thanks everyone!