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Bump (again; shipping included). 1:1 SIMM conversion of a magnificent Cave CPS2 shooter here, peeps! :thumbup:

Set it to the 20V selection (3 turns to the left from the multimeter’s current dial position). Battery should typically read 3.67v. I’ve seen some carts have a 3V battery (something like 3.1v when measured).

I’m parting with a converted CPS2 Progear No Arashi Japanese region B board. Board utilizes an authentic CPS2 daughter board and authentic CPS3 SIMMS (2 x 64 MB; 2 x 32 MB) properly flashed. B board used is a revision 7 with a programmed G PAL - this particular B board has no repairs...

Wow. Solder bridge on U70 - the fourth, third and second from the bottom-most right pins beeped connected. Three seconds with a desoldering braid/iron to clean it up & I now have crystal clean QSound! (Pins on U70 before clean-up) Many thanks @Darksoft & @l_oliveira for continuing to...

Ah. My previous question re: audio was meant to be limited to the multi itself. Obviously the A board does what it needs to re: audio but if the sound-applicable registers on the multi aren’t working properly it’s probably (likely?) the cause of my no audio issue.

My A board works perfectly with all my other boards & the wire fix is in place on the first gen multi & am still getting no sound. I’m going to check the registers on the first gen multi to see if one or more might’ve bit the dust. Audio was working prior to the wire fix.

Nice; I’ll get to work on checking out these shifters. Thank you DS

Do you happen to know where on the first gen CPS2 multi the audio section is generated for me to check? This kit works flawless except for audio - there is none generated either over JAMMA or QSound after the older “crackle” wire fix was done.

New world record here on a Vampire Savior U.S.: Thirty. One. Years. 31 friggin’ years to the month!!!! Board was still very much alive before swapping with a heavy duty Tadiran axial. Those sweet OG Capcom electrons from the factory continue to remain as-is.

Great dude here. Buy with confidence.

I think if you press the start button at any time Progear No Arashi is in free play mode, it will stay stuck on the title screen until you hit the start button one more time.

Unless you need it for a specific game, I would take a pin from a B board’s daughter board connector.

I’ll take one.

I’d buy a full setup of this (programmer and SIMMS) as well if anyone ever produces it. Absolutely amazing work & what an elegant dip switch solution!

Would a firmware update for this older CPS2 multi solve the crackling problem? I just came across a friends setup that has the wire “fix” at U34 but no audio for some reason.

Looks converted & not original. The PAL G (the PAL nearest the battery to the left of it) isn’t silkscreened. Nice looking conversion though!

+1 here for @dillingerradio . Easy to deal with buyer; the best kind! Don’t hesitate to sell to him.

Agreed. ^ The only one of these I ever want to see is my own.