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I would unseat and reseat all the socketed EPROMs, clean them and possibly reburn the one containing background graphics then. Also ensure the kit pins are cleaned and reinserted as well.

Errors in the background sprite layer. Was the PCB working before you installed the kit? Hopefully so and you just physically damaged a trace and can track it down.

+1 for @msamiullah. Perfect transaction and nice guy, thanks buddy

Nice. This happened on my R-Type Leo so I jammed some tape on top of the pins so it doesn't want to slip off again in the future and get lost.

Does anyone know the size of the GD-Rom fan? Is it the same form factor and voltage as the Naomi case fan? Edit: Confirmed its 60x60x15mm 12v. Same as Naomi mainboard case fan.

Does the negative leg of the supercap have good continuity to any ground point (with very low resistance) on the PCB? You can tie in multiple points to shared ground without worry. The fact that it takes a while to work before heating up sounds like its dodgy or it could also be another cap gone...

I did this process to my Undercover Cops, you have to replace all the socketed ROMs on the bottom board. There's 13 or so of them.

Since it was working before the recap, it's highly likely something that went wrong during that process. Make 100% sure that all the cap orientations are correct. I found it easy to lift pads when I recapped my MS9s, it looks soldered in but when I gently push down on a cap, one of the legs...

In the schematic the negative leg is going to ground, which is common for cap legs. You can try jumping it to any other ground point.

Is anyone selling these or an equivalent for us 3D printer-less? Edit: @msamiullah hooked me up!

Removing the grounding point near the PCB door on the height adustment leg removed *most* of the interference (the one that has the wire looping into field ground into the PSU), but there's still vertical waves coming from the magnetic(?) ballast at the top of the cabinet. Even after I unplugged...

I've determined that the ballast marquee light in my NAC is generating monitor interference. If it's unplugged the noise is completely gone. Would re-routing the AC wires fix this, or could the ballast be shielded somehow? I'd prefer to keep this original but if it has to be replaced by an LED...

Had a great experience with @ImportantBet , super fast communication and shipping, just overall excellent seller here.

Thanks, was checking if anyone on the forums had one first as this is one of those game that sells more in Japan for some reason. Recent forum posts and eBay is quite a big difference compared to YAJ.

Thanks, looking for a green Japanese board at this time

Found

Oh that's right. Looks like you'd just be missing the demag feature and since those pins are NC it should be safe to leave as is.

I just did this swap of the 400-5198-01Y to a 400-5261Z and the pinouts were identical. However, on this swap that entire 5x3 pin molex, the pinouts are completely different. It looks like you would need to crimp a new one. According to the stock Astro (I don't think the 400-5198-01 model was...

Confirmed that the 400-5261Z is a compatible swap for the 400-5198-01Y, so I assume those other models listed would also work. It also fixed the monitor interference (visual horizontal waves) problem I was having and the 12v issue of juggling 2 PSUs. Changing the transistor at IC3 with a 78L05...

The 400-5198-01Y is interchangeable with the 400-5261? And all the other variants with that same pinout? (400-5198CE-01Z, 400-5198-01X, 400-5261Y as long as they dont have the bundled amp) No hidden gotchas with swapping these?