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Shinsengumi

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I could have sworn I saw that someone had posted the files for these at some point...

Looking for both the ones that fit a Sanwa PFX in a Sega noami cab with flat bezel ( Sega spacer part # 280-6643) and the older ones for Nanao monitors in some Sega cabs ( Sega spacer part # 280-5112)
 
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Has someone actually done this already? Because it's something I've been meaning to do for the longest time. Anyway, might as well start now.

Here's 280-6643. In a Naomi Universal, this is the bush to be used with a Toshiba PF / Sanwa PFX and the NOA-1502-03 bezel.
 

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  • 280-6643_bush_for_tv_pf.zip
    20.1 KB · Views: 115
I'm not sure what part number this next one is. In a Naomi Universal, this is the bush to be used with a MS2930/1/3/4 / Sanwa 29e31s and the NOA-1502-02 bezel.

I tried looking up different manuals, but came up empty?
 

Attachments

  • bush_for_ms2931.zip
    18.5 KB · Views: 123
Naturally, I just sold my only Naomi Uni with a MS2932 and and the NOA-1502-01 bezel. It's the one that has 280-5112 / Bush for Nanao Monitor. I'm pretty sure I have one in my box of spares, but if someone can tell me what's the approximate length of one, I can then model it.
 
Agreed with nem here, I see people print things at 100% infil because they're worried about strength, and it's a waste not only of plastic, but also time. These infil patterns are very strong, your piece isn't going to fail because it collapsed on itself. I never go over 20% either.
 
I forget if it was CNC Kitchen or someone else, but there are videos of some strength testing that shows layer perimeters has a much bigger effect than infill. Wider extrusion perimeters (especially with larger nozzles) can significantly increase strength and reduce print time simultaneously. It'll reduce finish detail, but for mechanical and load bearing parts, it won't matter too much. Personally, I try to minimize the % of infill, and only increase it when it's needed to support exterior perimeters.
 
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