Meh, with the component sets. You're just as well off to get a decent transcoder to convert YUV.Awesome, would Tvs with component inputs also work?
I am picking up a KV27S66 tomorrow and a KV-35S42 on Sat. One is free and the other $15.
What parts do you recommend we get? Switches/Caps/Resistors, etc...
KV-35S42, you say?
Well..



There's ya a nice KV-35S42.
Get the following:
RGB female connector of your choice. (I use SCART as it's a standard)
4PDT switch - To switch the OSD RGB lines with your own RGB Source + Blanking
75 ohm resistors. - To match impedence of the 75 ohm signal load
.1uf capacitors. - For DC voltage offset, and black level restoration.
Do the following:
Lift pins 16, 17, and 18 of the Jungle I/C. Terminate your RGB inputs with 75 ohm resistors to ground, and then with a .1uf cap to the RGB inputs. Like so:

Tie a low voltage source (5v) to pin 15. This will enable RGB output. When you hold the pin high with that 5v source, it's game time. When it's low, your TV will operate normally.
Enjoy life.
Here's an excerpt from the Jungle I/C Datasheet for that particular set (35" Trinitron you speak of) I've outlined the most relevant information for you.

EDIT:
I just want to say something here.. This is a forum dedicated primarily to arcade stuff. Please keep in mind. A lot of sets have "free running" synchronization. Meaning, a lot of televisions will scan between 50Hz and 60Hz.
However, not all televisions do. Several are genlocked, including a lot of Trinitrons. You may have just a few Hz to play with. Ie: 58-62Hz.
Arcade boards are interesting in what their native scanning rate is. Some scan at wonky frequences (like 56 or 57Hz). This may yield some compatibility issues with a few arcade PCB's. Just wanted to throw that out there.
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