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Aero City - flooded, forgotten, found.

Some more pics because it looks so nice 😊
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Ziggy Cheetos Dust said:
Added this little powder coated Jamma to Aero edge mounting bracket with new screws and another repro sticker. I also stripped the paint off the locks (that someone had sprayed many years ago) and polished them up a little. I also cleaned up a few tangs, the coin reject button and some other thing that goes in the coin door but I’m not sure of it’s purpose.
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The coin reject I believe is for when a larger than expected coin is used and won't go through the vaidator - if you push in the reject button, the validator mech is widened to allot the coin go through into the reject opening
 
T
Kerbdog said:
The coin reject I believe is for when a larger than expected coin is used and won't go through the vaidator - if you push in the reject button, the validator mech is widened to allot the coin go through into the reject opening
Click to expand...
Thanks @Kerbdog. I was referring to this nut and bolt in the middle top of the door.
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Looking fantastic mate!

If there was one cab I would like to completely do a full restore on, it'd be my aero cities.

Fortunately for me, the "used" look fits the rest of my cab line up hahaha :D
 
Although it will come off again later I put the back panel on using Torx screws and matching anodised washers like I did on my Exceleena. Not necessary but looks a bit more tricked-out to me. I have nylon washers underneath to protect the powder coating. I also put in some nice stainless M6 Torx screws where the castor wheels would go - but that I don’t have.
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I spent a bit of time going through the disassembly photos to replace all the cable retainers in the cab with new ones. The original setup had a combination of the nice plastic U13 retainers and cheap bendy metal fold-over style retainers. I started replacing them as per how the machine came but it was a bit random for my liking for a restoration so I’m putting in all good ones - and symmetrically positioned as well 🤓. They’re U13, U18, CKN7 & CKN10 style from CQB Arcade. In hindsight I could have used CKN7s along the back becasue there aren’t many wires to route - but once I stuck a few on they’re staying.

https://www.cqbarcade.com/products/...ab-wire-clamps?_pos=1&_psq=clamp&_ss=e&_v=1.0

https://www.cqbarcade.com/products/...ab-wire-clamps?_pos=2&_psq=clamp&_ss=e&_v=1.0

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I was running out of daylight so decided to apply a bunch of decals. I suppose it’s traditionally the piece de resistance of a restoration - doing them last - but hey I wanted to eat dessert before the main.

I placed what was on the machine originally back in the same place - and the extras that I didn’t have but that I’ve seen on other Aeros I just put where I’d seen them before. I’m not sure if this is embellishing what was on my machine out of the factory or not but it does look sweet.

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Got the count counter cleaned up - you can actually pop these out of their case and clean the inside and little window - and also repaired a broken wire. Then placed the newly powder coated tray in the coin box area, and finally the coin box with lock and tang. The lock that came with the machine was a different number to the rest and I didn’t have a key for that, so I just used another matching Sega lock I had. I also put some grey contact on the bottom of the coin box to protect it from scratching and being scratched. I might do something similar with the sides as well. You can see a bit of a bend in the coin box cavity where someone tried to break in one time. Not much I can do about that and it’s not noticeable when the cover is fitted.

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These kick plates were pretty well scuffed but I managed to get a decent shine out of them - even though the deep scratches remained. I set up my own poor man’s polishing wheel. It saved a lot of work but I still had to do a bit by hand. The insides (not pictured) all had to be done by hand to removed tarnish and light surface rust.

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I also fitted the powder coated coin chute and control panel brackets. The brackets were only ever attached by two screws on the bottom, but there were two threaded holes on top as well. One of them wasn’t easily accessible for a screw but one was - so I put an extra screw on each side for more strength.

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