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Another 00's MAME Victim - Egret 29 Restore

trashedcabs

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Location
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I've cleared through a lot of projects so it's time to start on the last major one clogging up my garage. This Egret 29 was listed locally for a while at the insane price of $4000, but I managed to get the seller down to something much more reasonable and picked it up.

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As you can see, this cabinet was a victim of the 00's MAME epidemic. He said he imported it from Matsu and paid barely anything back in the day. Poorly rattle canned, and the entire original control panel assembly was thrown away to make room for a metal abomination with spinners and an LCD screen. The seller was very proud of his work so he insisted on keeping it. He also threw away the entire coin mech assembly because "it's free play and I didn't need it anymore" (????). The wiring was a bit hacked up to add an external power switch and a connector for rope lights, but otherwise wasn't too bad outside of a couple simple bodges that will need to be patched up. The cabinet does fully work otherwise. The monitor powers up and works and looks great, and the tube has almost no burn.
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I was amazed by how clean this cabinet was inside. It was a real throwback to when cabs coming out of Japan were all nice. The coin counter was astounding to see--only 2380 on the odometer! Shame on the seller for doing this to such a low-use cabinet.

I need to get this stripped down so it can go to the powder coater for refinishing. With how clean this cabinet is, this one should be a piece of cake. This cabinet actually comes apart into fairly small chunks, making transport easy.

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There is one kinda bad dent on the side which will need to be hammered and pulled. One of the corners at the base also had a spot weld fail.

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I took the plastic pieces to someone locally for vapor blasting to try and save some time sanding. He said the paint was giving him trouble and he didn't want to damage the soft ABS, so I had him focus on the detail areas which will make sanding the larger surfaces much easier. I will be handling the paint work myself to save some money, I will be using all RAL 9016 Traffic White throughout the cabinet so everything matches. I will go with a satin finish on the plastic and a gloss powder coat on the body, which seems to match the reference images I can find. Aside from being similar to the factory finish, a satin clear coat will save a lot of time polishing and hide any imperfections from a home paint environment.

Overspray everywhere. Just gonna ignore it since it's on the inside.


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I washed the tube before putting it in storage, and it wasn't even very dirty. Chassis was also pretty clean.

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You may be asking where I'm going to get the control panel assembly from since it's missing. Well, there's a second Egret 29.

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This was, quite literally, a field find. My friend purchased 6 of these from a Malaysian distributor which had them sitting outside for many years. They are completely gutted--bare shells with many rust holes, missing parts, and dents. The Malaysian seller also spraypainted the entire thing before shipping it. He sold one of these to me at cost, which in retrospect was too much for a pile of scrap metal. Yes, I do plan on restoring this, but it's going to be worked on slowly on the side as I find time. It's going to require patch panels welded in and new parts fabricated, unless I can find the missing parts as spares. The entire wiring harness is missing, for example. I will put out an open wanted thread for everything I need at some point, but for now I will steal the control panel housing and plastic to complete this first cabinet.

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The control panel plastic is very badly damaged from being in the sun. The plastic has shrunk in a few spots, causing large cracks to form. This will have to be addressed before refinishing it. The metal lower housing is a pile of rust and spraypaint and is currently out for sandblasting so I can know what I'm working with before it goes for powder coating. I will flap disk any rough spots for a better finish.
 
following!
Love to see E29s being brought back to life.

With the improvements in large-scale 3D printing it could be possible to reproduce the whole upper control panel. I've often considered designing a variant that fits a standard Sega panel for versatility.

it looks like you've got one of the crazy rare original 2L12B panels in your donor cab. hopefully it can be refurbished.
 
Amazing work, following with interest. Such an iconic looking cab, really pleased it is in your capable hands for restoration
 
Damn, that first pic of the mame-ified E29 is a freaking abomination! Following to watch a hopeful return to glory. Good luck man!
 
following!
Love to see E29s being brought back to life.

With the improvements in large-scale 3D printing it could be possible to reproduce the whole upper control panel. I've often considered designing a variant that fits a standard Sega panel for versatility.

it looks like you've got one of the crazy rare original 2L12B panels in your donor cab. hopefully it can be refurbished.

Yeah I was thinking if I can't find a replacement upper housing I will model a new one myself. Printing at that scale isn't too expensive anymore. I was also thinking I may have to learn the fusion sheet metal tools and remodel the original lower housing as well if I can't find one.

The 2L12B is rare? I actually just purchased a NOS original 2L12B off a user here--I didn't know it was NOS until I received it and it still had the film on it. The red panel is an Alberto panel which has joystick mounts built in, which could be a solution for the second cab since it likely won't have the weird joystick bracket assembly the original uses.

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The 2L12B is rare? I actually just purchased a NOS original 2L12B off a user here--I didn't know it was NOS until I received it and it still had the film on it.
Rare enough people have actually argued with me as to whether or not they even exist (despite the fact I own 3 of them) 😂
one of mine was NOS as well... I'm curious how accurate Alberto panel art is to the original if you wouldn't mind some close-up comparisons.
 
Rare enough people have actually argued with me as to whether or not they even exist (despite the fact I own 3 of them) 😂
one of mine was NOS as well... I'm curious how accurate Alberto panel art is to the original if you wouldn't mind some close-up comparisons.
Depends on how new that Alberto panel is. He made a version 1 and version 2. I have both and the first version was pretty off compared to the OG panel, 2nd newer version is pretty dang close in design and color. It's still an overlay on steel vs however the OG panel was made (Aluminum?) though.
 
This one I have is extremely good for what it is. I am fairly sure the original is screenprinted on to aluminum with no protection, judging from the immense amount of wear the one from the rustbucket has. The top two in this image are originals; notice how the second one uses a slightly darker stock of aluminum. The Alberto repro appears to be printed on a brushed metallic substrate to try and emulate the metallic effect, which it does very well, though it does impart a small amount of graininess in the print. The pattern is slightly lighter than the top original one but quite frankly you can barely tell any of this stuff IRL. The biggest difference is the polycarbonate gloss layer over the top, which is good for protection, but not original of course.

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I stripped the control panel down this morning and separated out the metal parts. All the metal bits will be sent off for zinc plating (I don't have the time to get setup to do it myself, as much as I wish I did).

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There was a LOT of surface texture on the top of the plastic that seemed to be baked in and not just grime. I was worried that this would suck to sand out, but the die grinder made quick work of it with some sanding disks. Moreover, I wanted to see just how bad the actual plastic was underneath all the texture.

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Probably the most cigarette burns I've ever seen on a single piece, but the texture came off quickly and the whole piece is nice and smooth now. I will work on patching up the cracks, filling and sanding it more tomorrow.
 
I've done a little bit of work on this. I mostly banged out the dent--there is a bit of a ridge still which I'll work on improving, but the panel no longer pops in and out so tension is mostly relieved. I need to have a friend fix a couple spot welds that broke and then it will be ready to be sent off for powder coating.

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Worked on sanding and filling the cracks and burns in the control panel. It's significantly better, but now that I have high build primer on it I can see there's still some more work to be done to fix a few pinholes and uneven spots. Hoping I can get some paint on it next week and have it ready to go. The satin clear coat should help hide some imperfections. I did discover that the seller in Malaysia spraypainted this too, and the puke gray under it is actually the original blue plastic that's been terribly sun faded.

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While the cabinet is completely apart, I decided to start on the monumental task of remaking the entire cabinet harness verbatim, since it's missing from the rustbucket. I have 30 wire colors to buy, and also have this list of connectors to buy--figured I'd post it since the wiring diagram for this cabinet is pretty barebones. I'm literally just gonna lay out the original harness and all the supplies on the table and do a section every few days until it's done. Unfortunately it's about $200 in connectors alone thanks to the expensive AMP Twin Leaf 56 pin edge connector; it will be time consuming but worth it, since it will be very close to the original and not a crappy premade JAMMA kit thrown in.

Edge connector seems to be an old AMP product line I can't find. I'll be using AMP Twin Leaf 583859-1 and 5-583649-3

Coin meter breakaway:
AMP 172331-1
AMP 172168-1
Pins: 770902-1
Pins: 170359-1

JAMMA pigtail disconnect:
Hirose PC-1660
Pins: PC-1600-111
Hirose SC-1660
Pins: SC-1600-112
Locking latches: 1600-LC


Test/Service panel
JST YLR-15V
JST YLP-15V
Pins: SYM-41T-P0.5A
Pins: SYF-41T-P0.5A

Rear power input to main harness
JST YLP-06V
JST YLR-06V

Video connector
AMP 1-480709-0
AMP 1-480708-0
Pins 350550-1
Pins 350547-1


Top speaker breakaway
AMP 172331-1
AMP 172168-1
Pins: 770902-1
Pins: 170359-1

Speaker connectors:
JST YLP-02V
JST YLR-02V

Marquee connectors:
JST YLP-09V
JST YLR-09V

Control panel:
1p:
AMP 172342-1
AMP 172334-1

2p:
AMP 172341-1
AMP 172333-1

Also found this excellent hackjob where someone cut the original pigtails off and taped their own in place... so that is going to need the right connectors crimped on.

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