Anybody make neckboard pinout adapters anymore

[Slypty]

I've got this beautiful Tube from a high-end Samsung set that has a different pinout than New Net City Tubes, I'm hoping to rewire it but would prefer an adapter.

From what I understand this is the pinout of NNC Tubes:

And this is the pinout of the Samsung Tube, A70QA761X00 :




I'd rather not cut traces and rewire a good KW0606A neckboard, hoping neckboard adapters are still out there somewhere.

The Tube is from a Samsung Ultra BioVision CRT, apparently great but the Chassis is dead and there's no schematics for it online. The tube is very flat on the front, a very slight angle so it should be OK as long as voltages can match OK.
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[nem]

And this is the pinout of the Samsung Tube, A70QA761X00 :

That looks like the same pinout as the PFX uses.

Does the PFX neckboard not fit the neck?

Also, before you go further with this, have you measured the yoke?

 

[Slypty]

I have the NNC yoke from a Matsushita tube I believe.

Also, the Chassis is still on the way from Japan. I figured the pinout would match a Blast City tube, which I think is different?

 

[nem]

Blast City tube has the same neck too, B10-277.

I would measure the yoke just to be sure that it isn't compatible with a PFX. It probably isn't, but worth checking.

Be aware that yoke swapping often leads to poor results.

 

[Slypty]

Blast City tube has the same neck too, B10-277.

I would measure the yoke just to be sure that it isn't compatible with a PFX. It probably isn't, but worth checking.

Be aware that yoke swapping often leads to poor results.

Ok thanks. The Chassis is untested, as long as I can do some testing it's worthwhile keeping, if results are poor I wouldn't be surprised.
I'll measure the current yoke just in case.

 

[trashedcabs]

A quick search reveals the model number of the samsung is CS-7277PT and schematics are easily found online.

As I said in your last few threads about cobbling together monitors, the yoke on a normal SDTV will not work with a trisync chassis. 99% of SDTVs will be roughly the same, incompatible inductance range. You need to look for an "EDTV" or "100hz" set which is very rare in North America if you want a plug and play tube/yoke combo.

Also, swapping a yoke made for a pure flat tube on to a tube with ANY amount of curvature is a lost cause.

You can use other chassis with an SDTV yoke, but not a trisync one. Are these all TVs ones you just happen to have, or are you picking up these sets aimlessly hoping they will work with an arcade chassis?

 

[Slypty]

A quick search reveals the model number of the samsung is CS-7277PT and schematics are easily found online.

As I said in your last few threads about cobbling together monitors, the yoke on a normal SDTV will not work with a trisync chassis. 99% of SDTVs will be roughly the same, incompatible inductance range. You need to look for an "EDTV" or "100hz" set which is very rare in North America if you want a plug and play tube/yoke combo.

Also, swapping a yoke made for a pure flat tube on to a tube with ANY amount of curvature is a lost cause.

You can use other chassis with an SDTV yoke, but not a trisync one. Are these all TVs ones you just happen to have, or are you picking up these sets aimlessly hoping they will work with an arcade chassis?

Not a keeper tube, only tester. I'm using a Tri-Sync yoke I bought from Yaton to test.

 

[Slypty]

KW0606A just arrived, a bit lucky that the Jamma connector was pre-fitted with a custom backplate as well as a DG coil input.

Still on the lookout for the right tube. The Neckboard pins aren't marked but they do match the photo from a few posts ago in number. The tester tube I have only has the last 2cm as non-flat (it's 70cm), it was a one-off Samsung design by Samsung with a ceramic coating that emits 'infrared' rays to improve blood flow (lol, yup a TV that helps your health). Anwyay I have the triSync yoke I can try with it and it's just to see if the Chassis fires up. If I'm lucky I can adjust within the flat surface alone.

Also are these KSC Caps good quality? I'd imagine they're probably fine but never seen them.

I've read that the Chassis fires up as soon as it's plugged in, so I'm wondering if an inline switch is something people install for these, or maybe there's a breakout switch, I dunno just new to Arcade builds.