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Frank_fjs

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Sync switch yes, leave audio attenuation ON at all times. Sync won't make a difference that you'll notice on screen.
 

SF3BMX

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This is a very interesting read because I also have the atp-300 and I haven't experienced any issues at all. Since I got the supergun months ago I have left the audio attenuation "on" and sync cleaner "off" and they were in that position right out of the box. I also use an rca cable going from the board directly to the TV for audio (stereo sound as well), and am using s-video. I'm actually a bit puzzled as to why the audio attenuation switch would affect the video output if it's in the "on" position, but work fine if it's switched to off. I have read on other sites that people have had problems with the audio attenuation switch in the past and have damaged their GSCART switches, but haven't heard of video issues. This is actually new to me and am now becoming cautious with my unit.
 

ReplicaX

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I wouldn't even open it up if you just got it. Return it for a refund and get yourself a better quality and cheaper Supergun.

I had JNX built me a specific one with certain features I wanted for my test bench and it was still less and has more features with a much higher build quality.

A HAS is a no brainier out of the box solution as well. Why its highly recommended on this forum.
 

Wraith

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Playing now with audio atten. on, no issues. Maybe it was something else...
 

SF3BMX

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Not gonna lie, but the HAS was the supergun I wanted to get to begin with. Like you said Wraith the atp-300 is an all-in-one solution and is readily available and that's the main reason why I went down that route. Don't get me wrong, it has worked great for me so far and I have had the unit for about 4 months now with zero issues. However I am now planning on getting a HAS now in the near future just to be on the safe side, and I know it's not all that difficult to set up and is significantly a much more affordable price.

Although with that being said, may I ask does anyone here know if RGB has a solution to use S-Video with the HAS? I'm currently using a JVC CRT. :)
 

Frank_fjs

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From what I can tell, RGB, composite and s-video are fine. I wouldn't worry at all if I were using a PVM or a CRT TV.

If I were using an OSSC and/or a scart switcher I'd be weary.

Alarm bells are ringing concerning audio output and sync.

It may be fine for 'most' cases, but arcade boards aren't all the same and this supergun seems to assume that they are. You will be very sad should you connect an expensive Taito PCB which doesn't have a bridged amplifier and it blows up.
 

And One

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Is it ok to use a cheap JAMMA extender for a ATP-300? Anybody?
 

rewrite

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In general you're better off not using cheap JAMMA extenders as they don't usually have thick enough cables for the power wiring.
 

And One

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Mmmmmmm...I've been having some weird stuff going on with my atp-300 sg and I was thinking maybe it was the JAMMA extender I was using but possibly I just have a crummy SG like I've been reading. I'll have to do some testing but it could also be the extender I guess.
 

rewrite

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Try testing without the extender. If your issues are all solved I'd say upgrade to a nicer one. I can't remember his username but the guy who sells them on here does a great job.
 

And One

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I've seen some stuff about that extender your referring to and will for sure look into it. Thanks.
 
A

Apocalypse

Assumes PIN L is grounded when it is not, it's the inverting pin in some cases.

Basic design with some fundamental flaws.
Clearly.
It's not rare boards have a sound output voltage "balanced" between pin 10 and pin L. For those games connecting one side of the speaker to either pin 10 or L and the other side to ground does work. But grounding pin L directly on the board causes a short on the audio amp.
 

Derick2k

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Anyone know the model number of the mean-well psu they used in this supergun?
 

meybarra

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meybarra

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Noob question incoming...

So I just finished a relatively simple CPS2 mod and I’m feeling ambitious with my soldering iron. Kind of like the problem where you give someone a hammer and everything looks like a nail.

Any recommendations on how I might make my ATP-300 more idiot proof, less likely to damage equipment, and overall just better? Add a voltage meter and a knob to the PSU? Permanently set audio attenuation to On? Add sync regeneration?

Yes, I realize the HAS and others may be better designed, and I’m putting my HAS to good use. I just hate to leave a pitfall for myself or anyone else that ends up with this supergun.

Given my general ignorance on the finer points of supergun design, am I in over my head with such a project?
 

DrunkAkuma

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Hey, i have a Windy Gaming ATP 300 with 2x UD2ATP with 2 USB PS3/360 Game Tech Decoders and 2x neo geo extension cords, that i have owned some years now prior to getting better at arcade stuff.
My question is if anyone know how the hell to get all the buttons to work when connecting it to a Atomiswave motherboard with Hokuto No Ken, i get light punch,Heavy punch, and Special (dash) on regular buttons, then i get heavy kick on my fucking select button, and its a Mad Catz TE 2 stick so the select button cables are to short to swap places with any of the other face buttons, ( i could just chop em off and solder extension cable that way) but then the problem is none of the remaning buttons k1,k2,k3,k4 or P4 will work as light kick so i have 4 working buttons and one in a completely wrong place.
I have tried to do the hold all punch 1,2,3 kick ,1,2,3 + start to reconfigure the USB decoder and change up the button setup, but the select button remains one of the buttons for attacks.

i don't know if this problem can be fixed when i want to run Atomiswave from the supergun, cuz its no issue at all running it on my Blast City but i might want to have stuff running at the Arcade at the same time, so it would be nice if anyone know of a solution.
 

nam9

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I know that button 5 is on select as there aren't enough pins on the DB15 for everything.
That's why you have a coin up button the the SG and not on Select as with others.
 
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