Blast City / Astro City / Astro City 2 / NNC - Restorations
- Thread starter Segafan1985
- Start date
I got my Aero City and starting to look at it. I noticed the joysticks are different than I was expecting. I have one as a replacement I was gonna use but unsure because the joystick connector is different.
Does anyone know what the three wire cable in the control panel area is for?
Does anyone know what the three wire cable in the control panel area is for?
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Also confused if I want to use the TATE CCW or TATE CW ini file for Mistercade v1. The CCW one seems to work best but some games are still flipped and i have to flip vertically in the settings. but some games don't have that option or the option doesn't seem to work.
But then the CW one seems like its vertical but upside down.
I find it a little weird that the loading screen is horizontal sometimes but then the video of the game is vertical. This is my first vertical cab so I am a bit lost.
I just planned on playing vertical games on the Aero so I guess I didnt even realize the CW and CCW versions were gonna be a thing.
Can someone explain the difference and purpose? Does it have anything to do with cocktail v upright situations? If it is for playing horizontal games on a TATE \ vertical monitor wouldn't part of the screen be cut off?
But then the CW one seems like its vertical but upside down.
I find it a little weird that the loading screen is horizontal sometimes but then the video of the game is vertical. This is my first vertical cab so I am a bit lost.
I just planned on playing vertical games on the Aero so I guess I didnt even realize the CW and CCW versions were gonna be a thing.
Can someone explain the difference and purpose? Does it have anything to do with cocktail v upright situations? If it is for playing horizontal games on a TATE \ vertical monitor wouldn't part of the screen be cut off?
Last edited:
BroadwayJose
Professional
No this just changes the menu UI to display correctly on a rotated screen. It won't impact any download scripts or do any automated filtering. You'll need to do that manually if that's a concern.
Oh maybe im dumb and CW and CCW just matters which direction you rotated the monitor. Lol.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
Congrats on the Aero pick up @Segafan1985
The connector in the CP is for - some will claim - the remote headphone board. It does work if you plug it in I believe, but it’s possibly too much for headphones as it’s speaker lever (L&R Mono) audio. It’s just cables spliced off from the JAMMA speaker cables. It might cook the little headphone drivers. I read a report of someone’s headphones overheating but other have said they had no issues. Maybe they were using over ears and not buds?
I just got a headphone repro board myself - but if you look through the manual you’ll see there is a transformer board that goes between the cable you see and the remote headphone board. This should bring the speaker level audio down to line level in my view. However if this was the purpose then why does the remote board have caps and resistors? It’s like the design was flawed and they abandoned it.
The connectors on both the headphone board and (non existent) transformer board are a bit confusing to be frank. Speaker & Headphone - it’s not clear what they do. I need to draw a diagram of the headphone PCB to work it out.
I’m planning to build a version of this transformer board myself - as part of learning kicad and for fun - even though it was never a real thing as far as anyone’s ever found when researching online.
I’m no expert either - just passing on what I’ve researched recently and I may hit some hurdles along the way and could work out it was abandoned for good reason.
Problems I’ve anticipated are the audio will be mono, volume control will be needed to make it user friendly and a mounting plate is required.
I’m just about done on my Aero restoration on this site if you want to have a look.
Headphone board repro on eBay.
https://ebay.us/m/AghjIw
Headphone board (not connected) in aero.
The connector in the CP is for - some will claim - the remote headphone board. It does work if you plug it in I believe, but it’s possibly too much for headphones as it’s speaker lever (L&R Mono) audio. It’s just cables spliced off from the JAMMA speaker cables. It might cook the little headphone drivers. I read a report of someone’s headphones overheating but other have said they had no issues. Maybe they were using over ears and not buds?
I just got a headphone repro board myself - but if you look through the manual you’ll see there is a transformer board that goes between the cable you see and the remote headphone board. This should bring the speaker level audio down to line level in my view. However if this was the purpose then why does the remote board have caps and resistors? It’s like the design was flawed and they abandoned it.
The connectors on both the headphone board and (non existent) transformer board are a bit confusing to be frank. Speaker & Headphone - it’s not clear what they do. I need to draw a diagram of the headphone PCB to work it out.
I’m planning to build a version of this transformer board myself - as part of learning kicad and for fun - even though it was never a real thing as far as anyone’s ever found when researching online.
I’m no expert either - just passing on what I’ve researched recently and I may hit some hurdles along the way and could work out it was abandoned for good reason.
Problems I’ve anticipated are the audio will be mono, volume control will be needed to make it user friendly and a mounting plate is required.
I’m just about done on my Aero restoration on this site if you want to have a look.
Headphone board repro on eBay.
https://ebay.us/m/AghjIw
Headphone board (not connected) in aero.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
Just get another LS-32 joystick with spade connectors.
https://www.cqbarcade.com/products/ls-32-sc-joystick?variant=39876087414844
Otherwise you can get adaptors on eBay.
https://ebay.us/m/NldSYW
But two different sticks in one cab would trigger my OCD.
https://www.cqbarcade.com/products/ls-32-sc-joystick?variant=39876087414844
Otherwise you can get adaptors on eBay.
https://ebay.us/m/NldSYW
But two different sticks in one cab would trigger my OCD.
Just get another LS-32 joystick with spade connectors.
https://www.cqbarcade.com/products/ls-32-sc-joystick?variant=39876087414844
Otherwise you can get adaptors on eBay.
https://ebay.us/m/NldSYW
But two different sticks in one cab would trigger my OCD.
Thank you for the awesome info! I think I will skip the headphone board stuff then. I would like to do a stereo mod and add an amplifier like ive done on my astros. I am not sure if you have done that. I will check out the link you sent. I always get the same SANWA joysticks out of habit so thank you for the link to the LS-32.
I am going to change it to a 4 button 1 player shooter layout so ill just be needing the one but i always like replacing the sticks and buttons and then putting the OGs in storage.
I have had an excruciatingly difficult year personally so I haven't been working on cabs much. But hopefully when I get my alberto panel ill have some motivation to dive into the Aero.
Ziggy Cheetos Dust
Champion
Happy to help. I did do a stereo mod which you’ll see in my thread. It’s not super beefy but I was able to utilise the spare 5v output and have volume control in the cabinet - so a win for me. Hang in there and I’ll keep an eye on your thread.
Putting these pics here from @Ziggy Cheetos Dust 's Aero City for reference.
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I don't think the Aero has cabinet power I can plugin to like the Astros and newer ones. But honestly I haven't verified. I wanted this amp regardless even if overkill. Have to also think about upgrading speakers but not sure. Assuming the stock ones might blow if I cranked it up too much with this amp. If it doesn't end up being suitable I'll just keep it for when I eventually get a NAC.
