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Blast City not powering on

Yeah I wouldn't be worried in the slightest fitting the 7A breaker that's a huge amount of current, I have no model 3 board set to test with but at 7A you are talking 840W! as above a CPS2 and blast draws about 180W.
 
Alright, made some progress but the game's not loading. The W28-XQ1A-7 came in today. I took the PSU apart, removed what was left of the old breaker, and dremelled the sides of the case a bit.
IMG_20220301_230733.jpg

New breaker fits well.
IMG_20220301_231620 (1).jpg

It's a little bit longer than the old one too, but the power board doesn't get in the way at all, there's quite a bit of clearance above.
IMG_20220301_232301.jpg

I took the fan out and gave it a deep clean while I was in there. Plugged everything back in and powered it up, and it turned on. Fan was spinning, marquee was lit, and I heard the monitor buzz. I have some of Lemony's JVS extensions with the voltmeters hooked up, and the numbers were a bit low but reasonable, so I connected my CPS3 with JAMMA and the kick harness. The voltages dropped a bit more (maybe 4.85 and 2.93) under load, so I adjusted the pots until they were at 5.00 and 3.33. I shut it down and saw the shutdown flash on the screen (it seemed mostly green). I booted back up and the voltages were the same, but I still didn't see anything on the screen, or hear anything. I left it on for a few minutes but still didn't see anything. Test and service buttons didn't do anything, either.
What are the next steps? Clean the JAMMA contacts?
 

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Can you test another PCB?
Is your CPS3 board a Darksoft CPS3?

Can you feel "static" on the CRT if you touch the glass ?
 
Can you test another PCB?
I can tomorrow, I should be getting a few more.
Is your CPS3 board a Darksoft CPS3?
Yep, UltraBIOS with SCSI2SD 5.2 from inertial/rabbit hole. All original Simms but 2, they're AJE.
Can you feel "static" on the CRT if you touch the glass ?
Yep, feel, see, and hear the static. Still no picture. Obviously nothing should come up if there's no PCB, right?

Voltmeters are reading 5.14 and 3.33 now with no PCB with the voltage pots in the same positions as they were to get 5 and 3.33 with the CPS3 yesterday. I think I'll hold off on testing with the CPS3 for now though.
 
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It looks like the ends of my JAMMA connector were clipped, so maybe the board wasn't lined up properly the first time.
IMG_20220302_222623.jpg
 
It looks like the ends of my JAMMA connector were clipped, so maybe the board wasn't lined up properly the first time.
IMG_20220302_222623.jpg
There isn't enough room for the board to wiggle though, so that probably isn't it. It's not cut deep enough for it to be misaligned.
IMG_20220302_223050.jpg
 
It looks like the ends of my JAMMA connector were clipped, so maybe the board wasn't lined up properly the first time.
IMG_20220302_222623.jpg

This is increasingly more and more common on cabs- the plastic has just gotten brittle over time. You can order new looms for blasts pretty easy if you care that much, but the harness will still work just fine so long as you're lining them up properly.

I think I'll hold off on testing with the CPS3 for now though.

Yeah, I wouldn't tbh. A whole DS CPS3 setup is a hell of a board to be testing a cab that you're having issues with. Obviously you've already dialed in your voltages to prep for load, but it's still not worth it until you can get a cheap board you dont really care about confirmed playable. I keep a garbo puyo tsu on me for this exact purpose when Im going to work on cabs.
 
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This is increasingly more and more common on cabs- the plastic has just gotten brittle over time. You can order new looms for blasts pretty easy if you care that much, but the harness will still work just fine so long as you're lining them up properly.
Yeah I think I'm lining it up okay. In my second pic, it looks like the right side wasn't pushed on all the way when I just connected it, so maybe I didn't have it connected all the way yesterday either.
Yeah, I wouldn't tbh. A whole DS CPS3 setup is a hell of a board to be testing a cab that you're having issues with. Obviously you've already dialed in your voltages to prep for load, but it's still not worth it until you can get a cheap board you dont really care about confirmed playable. I keep a garbo puyo tsu on me for this exact purpose when Im going to work on cabs.
Good call, no need to debug both at the same time or risk any damage.
 
Well, since it's a darksoft one, the region select menu is what you'll see first, so you won't get any sound. Try pressing the light punch button that would normally get you into the game to see if you get audio.

But yea, testing on a cps3 is not ideal...
 
Well, since it's a darksoft one, the region select menu is what you'll see first, so you won't get any sound. Try pressing the light punch button that would normally get you into the game to see if you get audio.
Yeah good call, haven't tried pressing buttons yet.
But yea, testing on a cps3 is not ideal...
Yeah. I'll wait until I have a cheaper board working before I try the CPS3 again.
 
This is increasingly more and more common on cabs- the plastic has just gotten brittle over time. You can order new looms for blasts pretty easy if you care that much, but the harness will still work just fine so long as you're lining them up properly.
This isnt even uncommon with new connectors. The way most of the designs for these are made make the corners weak points.
This can happen with new connectors or old. Just make sure your lining everything up or buy a key for your Jamma Connector to help out a bit.

The old HRS connectors though are almost always cracked on the left and right sides because they got so much use.

Confirm with another PCB to help rule out issues :).
 
This isnt even uncommon with new connectors. The way most of the designs for these are made make the corners weak points.
This can happen with new connectors or old. Just make sure your lining everything up or buy a key for your Jamma Connector to help out a bit.

The old HRS connectors though are almost always cracked on the left and right sides because they got so much use.
Yeah, it's not too hard to line up.
Confirm with another PCB to help rule out issues :).
I did. CPS2, MVS, and Naomi all work with no problems. Thanks to Anselmo for identifying the fuse issue and to tiff_lee and GeekMan1222 for helping with the part number :).

CPS3 is getting better, but still not there. I got it to boot on the first try today, 3rd Strike must have been loaded before, it came right up. I tried again later and ran into the same black screen. Couldn't start a game with LP. I cleaned the contacts and tried again and got the CD loading screen with some visual glitches, couldn't get the menu so I think it was frozen. Took the JAMMA off and tried again, still nothing. I made a new post in the CPS3 forum since my Blast issues are resolved.
 
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Stupid question, is there a trick to getting the bezel back in? I took it out to clean and can't seem to get it in right. At least, the pull tabs at the bottom don't seem to be locking in place. I align it with the tabs on the top, start with it at an angle, guide it in on the sides and snap the side clamps into place, and then the bottom part fits in. It's relatively snug, but I can get it back out without releasing the pull tabs, and it seems like there's a bit of a gap at the top. The top pieces appear to be aligned okay. Tough to get pictures, but here are views of the top corners and top tabs.
IMG_20220305_181148.jpg

IMG_20220305_181155.jpg

IMG_20220305_181230.jpg
 
Make sure your lining those metal tabs up with the holes on the bezel. The bezel has two different sized cut outs on each side.

Sometimes the locking pull tabs have issues locking back. A light love tap usually gets it to engage.
 
I just happen to have my monitor out so I snapped some pics for you:

1646630599912.jpeg


These metal clips are on each side.

1646630631311.jpeg


Tabs are at the top.

No matter if you are putting the bezel in for Yoko or Tate, they line up the same way.

To pull out, pull evenly from the sides and toward you. Rotate slightly at the top so the tabs can let go.
 
Make sure your lining those metal tabs up with the holes on the bezel. The bezel has two different sized cut outs on each side.
Yep, the tabs are aligned.
Sometimes the locking pull tabs have issues locking back. A light love tap usually gets it to engage.
Yeah I think they're just not quite locking in place.
I just happen to have my monitor out so I snapped some pics for you:
Thanks! Yep, I have everything in place, I think it's fine.
 
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