tiff_lee
Grand Master
Yeah I wouldn't be worried in the slightest fitting the 7A breaker that's a huge amount of current, I have no model 3 board set to test with but at 7A you are talking 840W! as above a CPS2 and blast draws about 180W.
I can tomorrow, I should be getting a few more.Can you test another PCB?
Yep, UltraBIOS with SCSI2SD 5.2 from inertial/rabbit hole. All original Simms but 2, they're AJE.Is your CPS3 board a Darksoft CPS3?
Yep, feel, see, and hear the static. Still no picture. Obviously nothing should come up if there's no PCB, right?Can you feel "static" on the CRT if you touch the glass ?
There isn't enough room for the board to wiggle though, so that probably isn't it. It's not cut deep enough for it to be misaligned.It looks like the ends of my JAMMA connector were clipped, so maybe the board wasn't lined up properly the first time.
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It looks like the ends of my JAMMA connector were clipped, so maybe the board wasn't lined up properly the first time.
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I think I'll hold off on testing with the CPS3 for now though.
Yeah I think I'm lining it up okay. In my second pic, it looks like the right side wasn't pushed on all the way when I just connected it, so maybe I didn't have it connected all the way yesterday either.This is increasingly more and more common on cabs- the plastic has just gotten brittle over time. You can order new looms for blasts pretty easy if you care that much, but the harness will still work just fine so long as you're lining them up properly.
Good call, no need to debug both at the same time or risk any damage.Yeah, I wouldn't tbh. A whole DS CPS3 setup is a hell of a board to be testing a cab that you're having issues with. Obviously you've already dialed in your voltages to prep for load, but it's still not worth it until you can get a cheap board you dont really care about confirmed playable. I keep a garbo puyo tsu on me for this exact purpose when Im going to work on cabs.
Yeah good call, haven't tried pressing buttons yet.Well, since it's a darksoft one, the region select menu is what you'll see first, so you won't get any sound. Try pressing the light punch button that would normally get you into the game to see if you get audio.
Yeah. I'll wait until I have a cheaper board working before I try the CPS3 again.But yea, testing on a cps3 is not ideal...
This isnt even uncommon with new connectors. The way most of the designs for these are made make the corners weak points.This is increasingly more and more common on cabs- the plastic has just gotten brittle over time. You can order new looms for blasts pretty easy if you care that much, but the harness will still work just fine so long as you're lining them up properly.
Yeah, it's not too hard to line up.This isnt even uncommon with new connectors. The way most of the designs for these are made make the corners weak points.
This can happen with new connectors or old. Just make sure your lining everything up or buy a key for your Jamma Connector to help out a bit.
The old HRS connectors though are almost always cracked on the left and right sides because they got so much use.
I did. CPS2, MVS, and Naomi all work with no problems. Thanks to Anselmo for identifying the fuse issue and to tiff_lee and GeekMan1222 for helping with the part numberConfirm with another PCB to help rule out issues.
Oh nice, thanks. I definitely haven't inserted the harness upside down, but do those help with alignment too? I don't think alignment was the issue anyway.
No reason to start now!!I definitely haven't inserted the harness upside down
Yep, the tabs are aligned.Make sure your lining those metal tabs up with the holes on the bezel. The bezel has two different sized cut outs on each side.
Yeah I think they're just not quite locking in place.Sometimes the locking pull tabs have issues locking back. A light love tap usually gets it to engage.
Thanks! Yep, I have everything in place, I think it's fine.I just happen to have my monitor out so I snapped some pics for you: