Capcom CPS-001A-7A PSU for Q25 Capcom Cabinet

[Gnaffron]

Hello there,

does someone have the schematics of the Capcom CPS-001A-7A PSU (Power Supply Unit) used for the Q25 Capcom Cabinet (i believe this PSU can be reused on many different types of Capcom cabinets because it is easy to plug in and out (mounted on a rack) from the actual Q25 Cabinet)?

As I was just putting back my CPS2 board in the cabinet to play with my son (CPS2 board finally working with the darksoft multi) as well as to check and see what the problem was on with my monitor, i spotted some fume coming out from the actual PSU... i believe some of the caps are leaking...

but I d like to check the schematics as well if someone has this.

regards
eric

 

[Gnaffron]

Just a quick update here: I manually removed checked listed and ordered in the USA directly all NICHICON condensators and changed ALL of them directly on my CAPCOM PSU... 15EUR of order, 18EUR for shipping and 10EUR for import VAT in France... so approx 50EUR to change all chemical NICHICON condensators... i took exactly the same specs (sames brand, same V and same capacity obviously) except that I made sure to always buy the ones that can operate to up to 105°C for approx 10000hours.... Note: only 3 condensators initially completely leaked... but this was really really worth the effort: not only I fixed my CAPCOM PSU and my CAPCOM Q25 cabinet works surper well again with my CPS2 Darkesoft V2 but the signal problem I had on my screen that I could not debug disappeared... I believe the leaking capacitors were probably not generating a clean and sufficiently stable and optimal signal to the jamma board (+5v -5v +15v and AC110)... Now after refurbishing and cleaning my old arcade I proud to say that this was really worth all my efforts... the picture is so crispy and detailed... Attached a picture of the PSU board w/o any capacitors and after cleaning the board with hot water and dishwashing product + oven at 70°C for 1h30min ; a picture with the board completely recaped 1 week after ; 2 pictures with the CPS2 working on the fixed cabinet... I did make another tuning of my screen today to make sure I can just play now instead of spending of hours always working on it I need now to reinstate another second cabinet that I have which is a very bad state... Thx for @Darksoft and others for supporting ppl in fixing/maintaining all our old but worthy machines

 

[ReplicaX]

I've never found a schematic for the Nemic-Lanbda ZT170-525. Only a datasheet:
https://product.tdk.com/system/file...r/ac-dc-converter/specification/zt170_spc.pdf

I also documented it on the AO wiki when I did my documentation project with a Cap list:
https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Capcom_Q_GrandAm_25

 

[Gnaffron]

@ReplicaX if only I had your cap mapping and specs before doing this exercise myself... that would have helped me going faster ordering but I reached the same list... By any chance, do you have on your Q25 a polo2 15-25 chassis and did you recap all of it? and if so did you save on a piece of paper the complete list of all chemical caps on those monitor related boards? I am really thinking starting unmounting all monitor boards and start listing all chemical caps to order them and even change them directly... the main board being vertically fixed within the arcade, I cant imagine what disaster that would be if 1 nichicon cap start leaking (because of the gravity)... i was lucky that the 3 x 3300uF 10V which all 3 completely leaked did not damaged more surrounding components... that was really a heavy mess on the board that I had to clean with hot water+wasking cleaning liquid (for dishes) to remove the sticky residuals... and then use a hair dryer to remove most of the water and then 1h30 the oven at 70°C to make sure all water evaporated correctly.

 

[ReplicaX]

@ReplicaX if only I had your cap mapping and specs before doing this exercise myself... that would have helped me going faster ordering but I reached the same list... By any chance, do you have on your Q25 a polo2 15-25 chassis and did you recap all of it? and if so did you save on a piece of paper the complete list of all chemical caps on those monitor related boards? I am really thinking starting unmounting all monitor boards and start listing all chemical caps to order them and even change them directly... the main board being vertically fixed within the arcade, I cant imagine what disaster that would be if 1 nichicon cap start leaking (because of the gravity)... i was lucky that the 3 x 3300uF 10V which all 3 completely leaked did not damaged more surrounding components... that was really a heavy mess on the board that I had to clean with hot water+wasking cleaning liquid (for dishes) to remove the sticky residuals... and then use a hair dryer to remove most of the water and then 1h30 the oven at 70°C to make sure all water evaporated correctly.

My Q25 came with it's original Toshiba A59JMZ193X Tube and MS8-25FBC Chassis. I shared my cap list in the cap list thread. I also worked with @rewrite comparing the multiple MS8-25 variants out there as not every variant uses the same capacitors.

Your Q25 has a non-original monitor. Hantarex polo monitors were used mostly in the USA and some EU/UK arcade machines and also have variants as well. I've never seen them come original in any Japanese Candy cab. For example, in the mid 90s Wells Gardner could not keep up with industry demand in the US with K7K monitors, and companies like Midway used Hantarex to supplement their manufacturing demand.

I personally make my own Cap Kit lists when I recap any monitor. Use a dial caliper to measure lead spacing, physical width and height, then use a series cross reference to determine the correct replacement capacitors. Which is how I learned in the electronics industry, from arcade machines to thermocouple, photocell, and timing controls.