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Cheap third party chassis option for WG 25" with CGM-2500?

Have the 467 in hand, pile of adapters but no CR-23. Ah well... had to take a shop vac to it to clean out all the disintegrating foam. Will test it out and assuming it all looks OK will then source a CR23.
 
So lamentably, I'm not getting any signs of life from the 467 unit after cleaning it and the main potentiometer control feels very spongy and doesn't click into place as I would expect. Always a chance I'm doing something wrong, but I fear it's headed to the repair project pile. Anyone have any guides on how to open these up? Seems like it's glued together...
 
Could the knob just be spinning in place? What if you tried removing it? It's a rotary switch.
 
nem said:
Could the knob just be spinning in place? What if you tried removing it? It's a rotary switch.
Click to expand...

I didn't think so, but looks like you're right. It's very stiff, and the knob is broken somehow so that it's slipping. Physically it seems OK, but the metal ring is able to rotate in the plastic housing. So now I need to figure out a replacement knob.
1710010751067.jpeg


I think it's a 6mm D shaft knob. But may get something adjustable to be sure. I can turn it on with pliers, but that's putting stress on some hardware that's almost as old as I am.
 
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Did finally get it apart for a visual inspection. Zero signs of any issues despite the age, even the casing is still bright and shiny. Will test that the voltages are correct, but thinking this can go a bit before capacitors and resistors are replaced. Far as I can tell, this unit was close to new old stock.
 
I'd check if i can use some tools to rotate the stub without the knob on it and see if you get signs of live. (One click clockwise to get it to 'set up' i'd say.)
 
Asure said:
I'd check if i can use some tools to rotate the stub without the knob on it and see if you get signs of live. (One click clockwise to get it to 'set up' i'd say.)
Click to expand...
I can, but it takes a lot of effort. I confirmed it powers on, but will want a knob before I do much more. Also want to hit everything with contact cleaner.
DelsArcade said:
Either of these should be good replacement knobs:
https://amzn.to/48RrjD2
Aluminum_.jpg


https://amzn.to/3TxYCXf
Black.PNG


Personally, I'd go for the bigger metal one. The set screw should face the flat part of the potentiometer.

Del
Click to expand...

The ones you list have a tension screw or are thin plastic. I've ordered some of these which should be a better fit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S61G1RQ/
1710330021811.png
 
Kujako said:
I can, but it takes a lot of effort. I confirmed it powers on, but will want a knob before I do much more. Also want to hit everything with contact cleaner.


The ones you list have a tension screw or are thin plastic. I've ordered some of these which should be a better fit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S61G1RQ/
1710330021811.png
Click to expand...
Those look good. I like how they have an adapter for the center based on what size you have. Good find!

Del
 
DelsArcade said:
Those look good. I like how they have an adapter for the center based on what size you have. Good find!

Del
Click to expand...

Had to very slightly file down the inside of the adapter, the rotary switch seems like its a weird size (possibly imperial rather than metric). But overall it's a good fit. Will test voltages this weekend.
1710511474501.jpeg
 
You could easily make your own. Just need the neck socket, B+K connector end and pins, and some wires in between.
 
nem said:
You could easily make your own. Just need the neck socket, B+K connector end and pins, and some wires in between.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's plan B or C. Not a lot of tinkering time right now.
 
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