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[CLOSED] Could not figure out why my CPS2 Darksoft kit not working

SelfDeniedHoarderz

SelfDeniedHoarderz

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Hi, these are all the steps that i've done:

1. Suicide the board - (checked)
8XaK5o6.jpg




2. Remove all the EEPROM - (checked)
JHmksWY.jpg




3. I've solder the jumper accordingly to the guide and check using Multimeter - (checked)

SOOS SO
LF7IUKB.jpg



OSOSOS
oymSjaN.jpg



SOSOSOSO SOSOSOSO
alKqcpO.jpg



4. Install Pal G
I've removed the current one, replace it with the inlcuded Pal G from the kit
I bend pin number 9 and solder the wire to it. The other end attach to the J17 pin
QAKtfmV.jpg




5. I've check the board pins and they are all straight, no bended
FCqhx2p.jpg

jxSeMFv.jpg



6. I attach the boards correctly
Notes: I've solder the keywriter wires but those wires are not yet soldered to CN2 pins
C0IVzjy.jpg



7. I've used Windows 10 PC, format 16GB microSDcard FAT32 and copy "Old" decrypted set (which does not required soldering keywriter wires)
"Games" folder is placed at the root of the SDcard



RESULTS:
- Show only GreenScreen on TV (no sound)
Itn9qgv.jpg


- Nothing shows up on the LCD (even press all three small buttons do nothing)
FvE0hLM.jpg


- I've reseated this board 4 times (nothing works)
QPqEvlc.jpg



I just don't know what's wrong. Could it be that my Darksoft CPS2 kit is faulty?
Any advices or suggestions to troubleshoot this are greatly appreciated.
 
Hi, solid screen means a problem with program Rom. Did you shortcut EXC3 to make sure that the battery is discharged?

If you did try reseating the small interconnect board of the kit. Last but not least about the LCD try adjusting the pot to make sure the problem doesn't come from there.
 
Darksoft said:
Did you shortcut exc3 to make sure that the battery is discharged?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what you meant here. I just use Desoldering Gun and detach the battery off the board.
Is there anything wrong by doing so?


Darksoft said:
Last but not least about the LCD try adjusting the pot to make sure the problem doesn't come from there.
Click to expand...
I've adjusted the Pot and nothing shows up

Darksoft said:
If you did try reseating the small interconnect board of the kit
Click to expand...
I have not done that yet but I give it a try
 
it may be marked as exc5 (I can't remember now) but it's basically a capacitor that needs to be discharged with the power off. It's on the other side of the b board right besides the battery that you removed.
 
Darksoft said:
it may be marked as exc5 (I can't remember now) but it's basically a capacitor that needs to be discharged with the power off. It's on the other side of the b board right besides the battery that you removed.
Click to expand...
I found EXC5 Capacitor now. What should I do with it? Remove that capacitor completely? or put the metal head screw driver between to legs to short it when power is off?
 
modology said:
Darksoft said:
it may be marked as exc5 (I can't remember now) but it's basically a capacitor that needs to be discharged with the power off. It's on the other side of the b board right besides the battery that you removed.
Click to expand...
I found EXC5 Capacitor now. What should I do with it? Remove that capacitor completely? or put the metal head screw driver between to legs to short it when power is off?
Click to expand...
put the metal head screw driver between to legs to short it when power is off
 
- I put screwdriver head on both legs of capacitors to short it when power's off
- I also resit the interconnector board

Result is still the same, still SOLID screen on LCD......could it be that my unit is dead?
 
I doubt your unit is dead, they are thoroughly tested during production and they are very well packaged. Could be that something is gone wrong with the firmware. Did you try to do a firm update? If not, can you please remove the 4 wires for key writing and do a firmware update by copying the latest firmware into the microsd as explained here: New CPS2 Multigame Firmware with Key Writing!!!!!!
 
I see it, well spotted Aldo.

There's a small blob of solder making a connection where there should be no connection.
 
modology said:
CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES said:
picture 4 the jumpers are united
Click to expand...
Sorry but I could not tell which jumpers that you mentioned in picture 4 and 6?Can you please clarify the exact Jumper (example: JP1 to JP4 as written on the board?)
Click to expand...
Jp10,12,15,17,19,21,23,25&27 look like they are closed. I can still see strip connecting them in the picture. I had to cut the strip with a exacto knife. Verify continuity on those and make sure they are actually open and not closed.
 
ThisGuy said:
modology said:
CPZ - SAVEYOURGAMES said:
picture 4 the jumpers are united
Click to expand...
Sorry but I could not tell which jumpers that you mentioned in picture 4 and 6?Can you please clarify the exact Jumper (example: JP1 to JP4 as written on the board?)
Click to expand...
Jp10,12,15,17,19,21,23,25&27 look like they are closed. I can still see strip connecting them in the picture. I had to cut the strip with a exacto knife. Verify continuity on those and make sure they are actually open and not closed.
Click to expand...
This ^ ^
 
Hi all!


Finally I got my multi, after 11 day strugling with the courier. No pins bended, all perfect. Looking carefully I found some pins bended

I've got the same problem like modology. Looking to my board there are a lot of jumpers with a thin line. I understand I need to cut this thin line, right?

It's impossible, its always beeping. I need to do a hole in the board or something like that? :D



Please, any advice?
 
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