- Thread starter DJLC
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Verified all jumpers are correct? Pins are all in good condition?
DJLC
Professional
Jumpers are all correct but one pin is broke, I thought I could fix the issue with little pin inside the stocket but I don't think it's making the connection.
Do you have any spare pins? It would be one for the graphics Roms on the Main board? Could I get at least 2 to replace the broken pins?
Do you have any spare pins? It would be one for the graphics Roms on the Main board? Could I get at least 2 to replace the broken pins?
You're in the USA, right? Go ahead and send it to me.
Ok. I received this kit and b-board pcb in the mail today. Here was my process:
--Main kit pcb had a broken pin so I replaced it first
--Reset wire looked a little sloppy so I installed a new one for a cleaner look
--installed kit on the b-board and it tested with sprite issues mentioned above
--I disassembled the kit and tested the G-pal and verified all jumpers were correct. They were all good
--Tested each kit piece individually using my known working pcb and kit. All kit pcbs tested 1000% working
--Upon closer inspection of the B-board I noticed a few worn and bent open pins in the socket for GFX rom 15 that are needed to make contact with the kit pins
--I bent the pins in some to allow better contact with the kit pins
--Installed kit and tested. Kit is working 100%
DIAGNOSIS: The kit itself was working correctly after replacing the broken pin. The fault was on the B-board pcb. I recommend having the socket replaced eventually.
--Main kit pcb had a broken pin so I replaced it first
--Reset wire looked a little sloppy so I installed a new one for a cleaner look
--installed kit on the b-board and it tested with sprite issues mentioned above
--I disassembled the kit and tested the G-pal and verified all jumpers were correct. They were all good
--Tested each kit piece individually using my known working pcb and kit. All kit pcbs tested 1000% working
--Upon closer inspection of the B-board I noticed a few worn and bent open pins in the socket for GFX rom 15 that are needed to make contact with the kit pins
--I bent the pins in some to allow better contact with the kit pins
--Installed kit and tested. Kit is working 100%
DIAGNOSIS: The kit itself was working correctly after replacing the broken pin. The fault was on the B-board pcb. I recommend having the socket replaced eventually.
this stems slightly from how the CPS2 multigame board connects. sockets are a common problem on any arcade PCB. more so when things are plugged in that are not supposed to (i.e. something that is not an EPROM)
eventually those sockets will spread out and become useless. its an even bigger problem on the old bootleg arcade games where a company would make a hack of some chip using logic on a small plug-in board that plugs into a socket to replace a chip. those wide flat pins really screwed the sockets and after removing the board 2 or 3 times it was game over.
I forget how many 1000's of hours I wasted repairing arcade games with bad sockets but it was plenty.
one good thing is those pins that connect the multigame board to the b-board are designed to fit into machine-pin sockets (they are round). to bulletproof it all someone has to do is fit machine pin sockets to the B board at the required positions.
I suppose thats easy to say when you're a Guru, but it's not really a difficult job to remove dual-wipe sockets, even for the average game player. you just need to know the difference between the blunt end and the hot end of a soldering iron
eventually those sockets will spread out and become useless. its an even bigger problem on the old bootleg arcade games where a company would make a hack of some chip using logic on a small plug-in board that plugs into a socket to replace a chip. those wide flat pins really screwed the sockets and after removing the board 2 or 3 times it was game over.
I forget how many 1000's of hours I wasted repairing arcade games with bad sockets but it was plenty.
one good thing is those pins that connect the multigame board to the b-board are designed to fit into machine-pin sockets (they are round). to bulletproof it all someone has to do is fit machine pin sockets to the B board at the required positions.
I suppose thats easy to say when you're a Guru, but it's not really a difficult job to remove dual-wipe sockets, even for the average game player. you just need to know the difference between the blunt end and the hot end of a soldering iron
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First of all. Great to see you here, Guru.
The damage to the socket was not done by the kit. The pins are small and the pins in the socket were REALLY bent. It looks like what happens if you put a rom in the socket and it catches just right and bends the pin at a funny angle.
I actually really like these kit pins. They install soooooo easily into the sockets. When the first batch was shipping there was almost a sky-is-falling mentality because of broken pins. I'm glad we did not switch because trust me, the standard pins we used on the protos are HORRIBLE.
Surprisingly enough. I had a proto installed on a b-board for months. But when I put a new kit on the pcb it installs and works great. The bigger pins didn't bent the sockets enough to cause a loss of contact.
The damage to the socket was not done by the kit. The pins are small and the pins in the socket were REALLY bent. It looks like what happens if you put a rom in the socket and it catches just right and bends the pin at a funny angle.
I actually really like these kit pins. They install soooooo easily into the sockets. When the first batch was shipping there was almost a sky-is-falling mentality because of broken pins. I'm glad we did not switch because trust me, the standard pins we used on the protos are HORRIBLE.
Surprisingly enough. I had a proto installed on a b-board for months. But when I put a new kit on the pcb it installs and works great. The bigger pins didn't bent the sockets enough to cause a loss of contact.
yeah I realise the damage was not caused by the kit. I know the pins are great, I have a multigame kit too.
They are bloody fragile though. I was doing some hacking for Darksoft and broke a pin when removing the support board underneath. Luckily there are 2 pins that are redundant so I used one of the spares to replace it and all is good again
that auto-reset fix is pretty sweet isn't it?
They are bloody fragile though. I was doing some hacking for Darksoft and broke a pin when removing the support board underneath. Luckily there are 2 pins that are redundant so I used one of the spares to replace it and all is good again
that auto-reset fix is pretty sweet isn't it?
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Oh yes it is. I have been using a dupont wire and either connecting it to the little connector on the B-board or if there is no connector, plugging it directly into pin B21 on that side connector. No inter-board soldering so it is cleaner and easier to take apart if need be.
Ah yeah using the single pin plug is a good idea too.
This is my version using CN9 with re-using a connector commonly found on a Sega wiring harness.
It's a shame the reset point on top didn't go through the board then we could add a pin below and plug it in underneath the multigame board and it would be almost invisible
This is my version using CN9 with re-using a connector commonly found on a Sega wiring harness.
It's a shame the reset point on top didn't go through the board then we could add a pin below and plug it in underneath the multigame board and it would be almost invisible
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Yeah but we didn't have the foresight to think of an autoreset at the time of design. At least if it's in a case you can't see it.
I'm still very embarrassed that none of us tried to put the proto in a case to discover that the case post was in the way......
