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CPS2 multi question

BladeZX

BladeZX

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I will be getting my CPS2 multi today and quickly looking at the instructions and my B board it looks like I am missing the connectors on my board that are highlighted in RED in the instructions
See images below

cps2_board_ver7.jpg

Here is my 93646B-4 board - I appear to be missing the connectors outlined in RED
It looks like the CPS2 multi main board plugs into them

@Darksoft @Mitsurugi-w
Am I completely out of luck here with my B board?
cps2_myboard_ver4.jpg
 
BladeZX said:
Am I completely screwed here lol?
Click to expand...
I'm afraid your are. Of course the same signals are available from each individual socket but the multi wasn't designed that way.
Well, you could solder back those two connectors too.
 
Dammit I knew it - the board came to me like this and it worked perfectly fine
Needless to say I am very upset right now
I do not have the connectors to solder on the board and it looks like it would be very painful
:cursing:
 
Ok now truly sad
 

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I had this problem two years ago. I ordered the parts you listed and soldered them on without issue. It was even my first soldering job. However, I used it as an excuse to buy a Hakko desolder gun and soldering iron.
 
I think another forum member with the same issue mentioned he would try to use a hot air station to do the job.
 
BladeZX said:
OK I bought the Hakko FR301 and the connectors from Digikey - I hope I can do this
Click to expand...
You can do it! Looking forward to the project log and the pics of the working board.

You are clearly able to find stuff in the labyrinth of Digikey so I’m guessing you have played the electronics game before. I’m not trying to be patronising. Please assume good intentions if I’m telling you stuff you already know. There are about a gazillion pins on there, flux will make this job so much easier. Most solder has flux core, it’s not enough, more flux = better results. The solder pads on the CPS2 boards are also quite small, maybe Capcom were trying to save $on copper or something? so it’s tempting to use a tiny tip, but even with an induction iron like the Hakko the tiny tips don’t get the heat transfer for through-hole work. A D24 is my go-to, or a D16, or possibly a KU. Cleanup with IPA or Acetone afterwards (acetone will damage many plastics including CPS2 shells)
 
@hatmoose
I love hearing good ways to do things
What temperature would be best for the hakko?
What temperature is best to solder? A lot of time the solder seems sticky to me and does not flow the best
What flux do u recommend?
 
lead-free solder is the foulest stuff in earth. I never use it, it doesn’t melt right, it doesn’t flow right and it doesn’t look right.

If my solder is sticking my answer is always more flux. In fact the answer to 99% of soldering is more flux.

For normal ledded 60/40 or 63/37 solder I set my iron at 280c. This is considered low, but it’s what I’m used to now. Many folks would suggest higher at around 300c

I never really found much difference between different kinds of flux in terms of function, so now I just use the one with the least messy applicator and the least foul fumes. At the moment I’m using this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CI73TTW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Please note that “no clean” is a very optimistic description. “Very slightly less cleaning” is more like it
 
I just found out that I'm in the same boat lol.

2UY4lS0.jpeg
 
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BladeZX said:
@hatmoose
I love hearing good ways to do things
What temperature would be best for the hakko?
What temperature is best to solder? A lot of time the solder seems sticky to me and does not flow the best
What flux do u recommend?
Click to expand...

For just about all my through-hole desoldering, I add a little bit of fresh leaded solder with an iron. I've found it helps make the desoldering process easier, even with a desoldering gun.

I have mine set to around 360°C. When I have it lower I've had trouble removing some things attached to a large ground plane. Could just be me though.

Now for soldering things in, I set my iron to 320°C. When there's a larger ground plane I'll raise it a bit to around 340.

hatmoose said:
If my solder is sticking my answer is always more flux. In fact the answer to 99% of soldering is more flux.

For normal ledded 60/40 or 63/37 solder ...

I never really found much difference between different kinds of flux in terms of function, so now I just use the one with the least messy applicator and the least foul fumes. At the moment I’m using this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CI73TTW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Please note that “no clean” is a very optimistic description. “Very slightly less cleaning” is more like it
Click to expand...

I go along with the rest of the stuff hatmoose wrote.

The flux I use does tend to leave a bit of a sticky residue, but some 99% isopropyl I have cleans up it pretty nice.
 
Update: I finally built up the courage to do this. I don't have a lot of experience with soldering but I have worked on some practice kits. Can anyone let me know how I did and critique my work?
 

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