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Daytona 2 refurb lingering issues

hellocomputer

hellocomputer

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I've got a Daytona 2 I've been refurbishing (regular edition, not BOE). It was a real mess. Now I'm discovering that I think some of the boards inside are corroded and not working. I already replaced the servo board because the traces were too corroded. The good news about my rig is Daytona 2 powers up, screen is pretty good with a little burn in. I just wanna get it working right and am hoping someone can help me deduce what I need to do to fix some issues.

Issues to fix
  • The Drive Board (838-1348) looks like it's fried. Lights up in the back but the LEDs do not. Ken Westerfield was telling me it's probably got too much corrosion.
  • Force Feedback works, but it calibrates to the right. Once I start a course and get to the rolling start the steering will turns all the way left, counter clockwise. Maybe just a steering volume adjustment? At boot steering wheel clocks right and left, and no errors on screen.
  • No sound :( - I do hear static in the front speakers when I turn the front POT. Rear speakers have no sound. Speakers are brand new in the seat, and plugged in. Looking at the board a little closer now and the traces look pretty bad. (See photo.)
  • Pedal works in menu select and can select track and car, but in game when I press pedal I see the speedometer move, but the car rolls to a stop and car does not accelerate.
  • One mystery cable in back of steering console that I don't know where it leads to. I don't seem to have a female connector for this anywhere. (See photo.) Is this why the drive board LEDs don't light up?
I wanna get it back to original working condition first. Think I might have to buy a drive board and amp.
 

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well I solved some issues.
I soaked the drive board in Evaporust over night. I had noting to lose. And incredibly, doing this made the LED light come light up (they are a little crazy as they don't show full numbers, but it helped a little). Before hand I had cleaned with simple green, water, toothbrush. Evaporust really broke more corrosion down.

FFB - I centered the steering wheel. Ken at https://www.irepairsega.com/ helped me with this and FFB is better. I'm not sure it's working 100% tho. Feels like it "lets go" when you corner too much. I'm no sure if this is how the game is supposed to be. It's also, sometimes, moving the steering wheel on 30sec interval in attract mode. But not all the time.

Gas pedal wasn't working, because brake POT was maxed. FIXED IT by adjusted both of these pots according to this and car drives now.
Accel: Under 30H (pedal released) to Over COH (pedal stepped on
Brake: Under 30H (pedal released) to Over D2H (pedal stepped on

Also, still have no idea what that cable is. Not plugged in, but my car drives so I guess this steering console was pulled from another terminal.

So biggest remaining issue is NO Audio. Can hear static in all 4 speakers so the amp is working? Rechecked wires and they are connected correctly.
Swapped the DBS board with a DBS Clone and that didn't fix things either. Still no sound of any kind.
 
hellocomputer said:
So biggest remaining issue is NO Audio. Can hear static in all 4 speakers so the amp is working? Rechecked wires and they are connected correctly.
Swapped the DBS board with a DBS Clone and that didn't fix things either. Still no sound of any kind.
Click to expand...
Crackling to me sounds like the potentiometer is faulty; the one that goes to the amp that controls the volume that's inside the coin box. That or the amp is likely dead. I know someone who worked on a Virtua Cop 2 cab (M2A-CRX) that had the same problem and swapping the pot fixed the issue for him.
The only way to know is if you turn the volume way up or disconnect the pot. WARNING: THIS WILL CAUSE THE AUDIO TO PLAY AT FULL LEVEL!! WATCH YOUR EARS IF YOU ATTEMPT THIS!
 
So I found replacement Amp for my D2 cab, but still no sound. I don't think the unit is even getting power. I see that it gets its power from the sub module. Anybody got some tips on how to troubleshoot this. It's the last remaining item on my D2. Works, but no sound :(
 
The amp should have its own power supply. IIRC it runs on 14VAC.

Can you take a pic of the amp in place?
 
Here's my AMP 838-13475.
I tested the power on the CN1 cable which leads back to the transformer. With leads inserted I get 0.0. :(
I don't see any fuses in between. So I think my original AMP is probably fine... it's just never had any power.
 

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Transformers are pretty sturdy. Check the wiring to the transformer.
 
Is your tester in AC mode? Can you test your other transformer outputs? What is you black probe connected to?
When you cab is off and unplugged, do you have continuity between the 2 orange wires you show on your photo?
 
AC isn't tested against ground. You have the black meter lead on one wire and the red meter lead on the other.

So the power to the amp is fine and we can probably assume atleast one amp is OK?

You don't even hear static from the speakers?

Check for resistance on the volume pot connector on the amp. It's a 5k pot.

Also, there's small mixing boards that join the two audio output togethers (sound fx and the music tracks). Bypass these boards by connecting the speakers to either one of the audio outputs on the amp.
 
so I tested the front POT. Checks out at 4.9k ohm. The rear pot is all over the place. 99, 200... this needs to be replaced.
Also, I do hear hum in rear speakers. Would the one rear bad pot be killing all the sound?

Have not tried connecting directly from amp to AM3 board, this is what you mean right? the connectors don't line up so I have to rig something up to test.
 
Yes, that's what I mean. Sorry, I remembered the order wrong. The mixing boards are of course before the amp, not after.

Try connecting the audio output straight from the Model 3 motherboard to the amp.
 
Well, finally found some time and made an audio cable and plugged it from the the AMP to CN7 and CN8 on the model 3 board and got no sound. :(
 
hellocomputer said:
Well, finally found some time and made an audio cable and plugged it from the the AMP to CN7 and CN8 on the model 3 board and got no sound. :(
Click to expand...
So do you still get a hum when you turn the knob? If it sounds a semitone lower than a 60hz bus, that's the hum from the game board itself (presumably because it runs at 57.5hz instead of 60hz). Usually that's an issue with the ROM Board or CPU board, but I've mostly found it's a bad connection between the ROM and CPU boards.
My Le Mans does produce a 60 cycle hum from the rear speakers' amplifier's AC (this would be a 50hz in other countries).

If you want to test the individual boards to see if audio is okay, you could wire a 3.5mm jack to 4 Dupont connectors with a screw terminal. You'll probably need to tie two ground wires together to one pin though.
 
The rear speakers I can slightly hear, and I mean slightly. adjusting volume doesn't increase hum. I changed the pot on the main speakers as well.

so would I wire the 3.5mm jack and plug in some speakers? Not sure I follow.
 
Yes you could make this kind of cable and plug a PC or a phone to test the Amps/speakers/wiring side.
And an opposite gender cable to connect a headset directly to your stack to test it maybe.
 

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