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I'm planning on doing a full teardown of the cab, starting with the top assembly... But I may not start this until I have the part to replace the bent marquee holder however.
I will do a separate post/thread about it once I get moving on that project.

I've had a very busy month and a busy week at work approaching, trust me it's on the "to-do" list. ;)
 
in the mean time, connect your screen via DVI and see what happens. I`m sure you don`t want to spread misinformation...
 
(with a Magic Eraser) on the stainless steel control panel surround...
SO...Magic Eraser on stainless steel = ok got it.

I bought a magic eraser, then whent on the googles to find if it can remove the top layer of some types of surfaces?

Dose that apply to some material used for candy or woody cabs?

SO..Magic Eraser on paint, powder coat, plastic, laminate, side art, cp art = bad?


i whent with diluted simple green over the Magic Eraser. but that's a lot of elbow grease
 
googles to find if it can remove the top layer of some types of surfaces?
Yes this is actually how the "magic" works... Imagine it as a block of micro grit sandpaper.
So the trick to using it on stainless steel is long strokes with the existing brushing pattern direction.
It WILL put new scratches into the stainless surface, however if you match the direction and length it will blend in.

Because of the potential for damage I only recommend using the ME as a last resort when other cleaning methods have failed...
Holy crap that must have been a lot of elbow grease, I determined some spots as uncleanable via this method!

The parts you do NOT want to use a ME on IMO... Plastic! It will take the finish/shine right off until it's dull and dry to the touch.
For plastics I've found Ronsonol lighter fluid will take off glue/paint/other discoloration without causing ANY damage.
Acetone also works well for this, however on plastics acetone will discolor and damage!

I haven't cleaned the 1P stock panel because I intend to replace it with the 2P official...
I did have lots of extra white buttons around, so I populated it and put it back on for this shot. :D
6vSLSDK.jpg
 
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that blue coin slot and blue plastic riser guards on the back of the Cp are really sharp looking. silly detail to be impressed with, but i like the two tone.
Because of the potential for damage I only recommend using the ME as a last resort when other cleaning methods have failed...
Holy crap that must have been a lot of elbow grease, I determined some spots as uncleanable via this method!
thanks for clearing that up. I watch a guy on YT "restore" a entire woody MK3 with a ME. i was like ; "something about this doesn't seem wright??" considering that was a few year old video, I'm sure his art work and CP are chemically worn and has that faded grayish cloud filter look.

lol. i forgot Derick recommend "Crud Killer" to me. I use 50/50 that for cigarette tare and grease grime that was too much for simple green.

CLR with a q-tip/wire brush/220 grit for the rust.

I think a lot of the chemical ware i got was from arcade operators spray cleaning their cabs. Sure its fast to spray it down with a fine mist and wipe it off. Lot of it seeping into cracks and collecting on flat surfaces though. I'm not the biggest fan of using ammonia.
So the trick to using it on stainless steel is long strokes with the existing brushing pattern direction.
It WILL put new scratches into the stainless surface, however if you match the direction and length it will blend in.
is Brasso to abrasive for stainless steel? was just thinking that may help smooth out the scratches.

I've use Brasso for "brick shinning" before.

where you take something like a stamped raised brass *things, and grind it agents a brick until you have worn away any raised surface and are left with a single flat surface. then you polish it with a white towel and white cotton t-shirt with Brasso till its a mirror scratchless finish.

might be able to get rid of scratches all together? could probably skip the whole using a brick part. ;)

For plastics I've found Ronsonol lighter fluid will take off glue/paint/other discoloration without causing ANY damage.
Acetone also works well for this, however on plastics acetone will discolor and damage!
thanks. that helps. never thought about lighter fluid.

I dried out and discolored some plastic with "Goof off". i think its paint thinner based. not good to use on video game carts or soft plastics. Also just the fumes can eat away at glue seals and pull the color out of a lable. So don't use it near anything held together by glue.

"Goo Gone" and WD40 i have used for other plastics before. both leave a smell and film. got to dilute the crap out of them. then also clean it off with water. not my favorite methods.
fumes can also eat away of thing like nearly located glue seams.
 
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Needs some move strips imo :)

Awesome cabs man, I have the red white F model
 
@jassin000

Hey J, so....since you have both cabs whats your assessment?

Would you say that the C is a much better built/equipped cab?

Do you prefer the new screen or the original C or the original Diamond screen?

Have you tried the OOSC on the new screen on C cab?

Want to get your honest impressions on all. It seems that Taitos new lcd just seems to have richer, deeper color/black levels, even if it is slower by a couple of ms over the original screens.
 
I think over all the Capcom is a more feature rich cab, the stock illuminated move strip, the stock illuminated marquee, the extra attention to details like the corner/offset leg leveler shrouds.

I think the Diamond stock LCD is better than stock Capcom LCD, however I think the image quality on both pales in comparison to the New LCD...
I'll admit what the New LCD adds to image quality, it appears (I haven't tested, if you want to send the 720p HDMI tester I'll get some hard numbers) to have a noticeably higher lag.

I haven't tested the OSSC on the Capcom yet, actually I just got my MC Cthulhu's wired up in the Diamond.
NES gaming has NEVER BEEN LIKE THIS OMG ITS FUN!

The brightness/colors on the New LCD appear more vivid/better, but I've found the black levels are equally as good on the Diamond screen, I didn't feel this was as true on the Capcom...
It has been a while since I used it, over a year now? So yea I'm just going by memory here which may be flawed, but yes...
Capcom had to have the brightness all the way up just to get cool depth, then the blacks turned greyish.

I want that New New LCD tho, maybe this Diamond LCD just needs a good cleaning (IDK it's doubtful to me) I think screens are getting better all the time.
 
so, thanks to your Derick, we know you have a IPS Tech Screen. Thats good, that is a 1080p Screen.

http://www.neo-arcadia.de/diascreen.jpg

Capcom had to have the brightness all the way up just to get cool depth, then the blacks turned greyish.
and you think that is a normal thing ? *pain*

that is a very clear sign that your Screen has/had a backlight Problem.


I think screens are getting better all the time.
32" Screens are getting cheaper, not better.

further, comparing used Screens, with different age and different usage, without even refurb them makes no sense at all.
 
further, comparing used Screens, with different age and different usage, without even refurb them makes no sense at all.
so he has to go out spends thousands on good test equipment then spend hours refurbishing the monitors just to make you happy.
But yet you have failed time and time again with the fact jassin has only ever expressed his opinion about the monitors.

so, thanks to your Derick, we know you have a IPS Tech Screen. Thats good, that is a 1080p Screen.
You are aware a monitor can accept a 1080p input while still being 720p. actually the 32 inch tv scene is flooded with examples of this even today
Better point out i"m not saying that's the case here just making a point that just because a monitor says it running a 1080p image doesn't mean that's what is truly displayed
 
no, you don`t have to use any test Equipment at all, but you have to reach a similar state of condition.


yes sir, i`m very well Aware of the fact that a there are 720p Screens that downscale 1080p (like the sanwa in the C btw), but this is a native 1080p Panel.


with love from Jan @ Neo-Arcadia...... yes corey... i know
 
no, you don`t have to use any test Equipment at all, but you have to reach a similar state of condition.
So 2 objects must have a similar state of condition to make an opinion. Well crap i better shut my mouth from now on. Didn't know that was a rule when making opinions

with love from Jan @ Neo-Arcadia...... yes corey... i know
wasn't hiding it. Just be careful with them big steps you're taking don't want you to fall and pop a hip out
 
you missunderstood, i`m perfectly fine with the fact that he does not like the Screen or prefers anotherone or what ever, i`m just pointing out that the Basis for his oppinion might flawed.

If i understand correctly this Forum is ment as a Information ressource, is that correct ? so it should be in everyone`s interesst to keep the provided informations as accurat as possible , wouldn`t you agree ?



wasn't hiding it. Just be careful with them big steps you're taking don't want you to fall and pop a hip out
Hah, ok. You could have used your username , but instead you draged my name into this. No hiding.. i see.
 
If i understand correctly this Forum is ment as a Information ressource, is that correct ? so it should be in everyone`s interesst to keep the provided informations as accurat as possible , wouldn`t you agree ?
5cf0a238880cf93e6eea80adb9ac07e3.gif


Hah, ok. You could have used your username , but instead you draged my name into this. No hiding.. i see.
i did. just thought you might like some credits too.
 
i take it that is the end of this discussion ?



i did. just thought you might like some credits too.Would you like me to give you some credit ?


oh, thank you, maybe i should return a favor and give you some credit ?
 
why not.

i'm excited to where this is going :D
 
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