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Dungeons and dragons color problem

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Howie2673

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I can't seem to figure out what's going on with the color of my d and d. I've tried different crt monitors and now on my work bench and still it has too much red and blue it seems. Any ideas
 
Howie posted this over on the KLOV forums and I suggested he also post over here as I know there are lots of smart people on this forum as well...

:D

Anyway, here's the pic he posted and some more info:

------------------------------------------------------------------

Posted by Howie:

"Have trouble with the color on Capcom CPSII D&D. Have tried different monitors and same problem, any ideas? Way too much red and blue. Nothing in settings worked either."

Posted by ArcadeAction:

"I assume you may be using a CGA to VGA converter.
You might try using different video cables in the event it might have something to do with the connection.
If you have other JAMMA PCBs, are they showing incorrect colors as well when connected to this setup?"

Reply by Howie:

"I am using one.
I have tried other games they are all fine. Also the cabinet for D&D is a CRT. I've tried other games on it. And they where fine. It's in the pcb. Its a lot easier to have an LCD on my work bench then a CRT."

DDcolor.png
 
Have you been able to narrow the fault to the A or B board?
Would make more sense if it was the A board.
Can you try to run a memory test in the service mode?
 
Guessing it's the A board. I can pull top board off and still same colors just no game. I'll try the memory test tonight when I get home.
 
Raph_friend said:
Replace 7W (LS157) on A BOARD.
Click to expand...
Having been a repairer for more than two decades I wonder how you can be so sure of it. Is it a common point of failure? You had the exact same issue before and it was the root cause? Same symptoms can be caused by many different things and the same faulty chip can cause many different symptoms (depending of which gate is faulty, etc.).
 
He has been right on that one before. But I came across one with a similar fault and it wasn't the LS157.

He said without a game on it it still gave the same colours but no game. CPS1 A with no game should be black. Bad converter?
 
xodaraP said:
He has been right on that one before. But I came across one with a similar fault and it wasn't the LS157.

He said without a game on it it still gave the same colours but no game. CPS1 A with no game should be black. Bad converter?
Click to expand...
He has a CPSII board not CPS1.

:D
 
brentradio said:
xodaraP said:
He has been right on that one before. But I came across one with a similar fault and it wasn't the LS157.

He said without a game on it it still gave the same colours but no game. CPS1 A with no game should be black. Bad converter?
Click to expand...
He has a CPSII board not CPS1.
:D
Click to expand...
Sorry that's what I meant lol, still should be black screen with no B attached
 
It's not gonna hurt to try ls157. Curious, besides Ebay. Is there a better place to purchase ic
 
Apocalypse said:
Raph_friend said:
Replace 7W (LS157) on A BOARD.
Click to expand...
Having been a repairer for more than two decades I wonder how you can be so sure of it. Is it a common point of failure? You had the exact same issue before and it was the root cause? Same symptoms can be caused by many different things and the same faulty chip can cause many different symptoms (depending of which gate is faulty, etc.).
Click to expand...
I did it countless times on A boards, same problem. I'm just trying to help with my experience, but if the problem persists, we can try other solutions. You can search here on AP, at least 2 persons had saved A boards with this little fix.

I don't now why this exactly IC blow, but that's it.

Thanks for your comment.
 
Raph_friend said:
I did it countless times on A boards, same problem. I'm just trying to help with my experience, but if the problem persists, we can try other solutions. You can search here on AP, at least 2 persons had saved A boards with this little fix.
I don't now why this exactly IC blow, but that's it.

Thanks for your comment.
Click to expand...
Don't get me wrong, I was genuinely eager to learn something here.
If I go by my repair list what I've changed the most are the LS07s just before the JAMMA connector. But never that LS157.
 
it is true with the b board unplugged I do get a bright red screen not a blank screen. I'd send a pic but I cant upload it here to big everytime
 
Howie2673 said:
it is true with the b board unplugged I do get a bright red screen not a blank screen. I'd send a pic but I cant upload it here to big everytime
Click to expand...
Sounds ok to me, I have the same behaviour here. Sometimes it's red, sometimes it's green, sometimes it's blue, depending of the A board but never blank.
 
I had an A board exhibiting faulty colors and it was fixed by replacing the 3xLS157 7U 7V 7W at the recommandation of Raph_friend, I’m a believer.
 
Apocalypse said:
Raph_friend said:
I did it countless times on A boards, same problem. I'm just trying to help with my experience, but if the problem persists, we can try other solutions. You can search here on AP, at least 2 persons had saved A boards with this little fix.
I don't now why this exactly IC blow, but that's it.

Thanks for your comment.
Click to expand...
Don't get me wrong, I was genuinely eager to learn something here.If I go by my repair list what I've changed the most are the LS07s just before the JAMMA connector. But never that LS157.
Click to expand...
Sometimes I get like 20 boards for repair/restoration from same client and that's a recurrent problem, don't ask me why.
 
What I know is everytime the LS07s are blown board had been used in a cabinet without isolation transformer.
 
So I'm going to order both just to be safe and see what happens. There are a few different options though for the 74ls07 and the 74ls157. Theres a dr and a ns model for the 74ls07. And a dr and a nsr for the 74ls157. Which are the models I should pick up for both
 
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