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Joko3

Joko3

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This is my current setup that will likely change many times again, but I just want to say thank you to everyone on this forum who made it possible. Special thanks to Mitsu, Darksoft, and RGB for offering such amazing products. Thank you to Lions3 for taking the extra time in making the MVS case, thank you PascalP for helping me get my Rhea up and running, and thank Mobiusstriptech for providing such awesome work on my PCEngine. Also, thank you SmokeMonster for offering me a Rhea before I was able to get lucky myself and purchase through GDEMU. Theres too many names to list, so thank you everyone who helped me get the CPS3 up and running using a Mac. That was a long night lol.

Display: PVM14M4U (800 line)

I love this monitor! I used to own a BVM20F1U and I seriously like this one better. It's more reliable, flips easily, has more input variety, and even though this may sound funny...a speaker. Sometimes if I'm just playing for a few minutes I don't want to fire up the stereo. I'm using a Hama SCART switcher to switch between everything.

Sound: Fisher 500-B (mid to late 60s tube amp/receiver), EPI 200C speakers (80s I believe)

My old man gave me the amp when I was 14, and I believe he owned it since the early 70s. It was my main stereo unit for years until my dad gave me a fully handcrafted, hardwired stereo four years ago (he's busy in retirement). Anyway, for video game use this thing has a magic sound that just works. Unfortunately the power tubes are a pain to find for this thing...

Speakers are EPI 200C, theres another one in the other corner of the room. Picked these up for a steal at $100 on Craigslist. The tweeters on EPI speakers are always particularly good.

Systems hooked up: Darksoft CPS2, PCEngine w/RGB mod, and V-Saturn w/Rhea

Not hooked up, but need to say thanks: Darksoft CPS3, Neo Geo MV1F

Controls: Thanks to RGB's wonderful Saturn to DB15 adapter, I got bored one day and completely gutted out a Hori Real Fighter VF stick and installed a Seimitsu LS32 stick and Sanwa buttons inside. I'm kind of addicted to Progear lately and use it for that. Also, my girl will now play Final Fight with me because she can use a Saturn controller. So thats cool : D

Going to change up my HSS-0130 again, so I'll post pics when I do that.

Anyway, thanks again everyone who has given me help over the last year and a half. It's been a weird last year for me transitioning from military to civilian life, and piecing together my ideal gaming setup has been a great outlet. I really appreciate everything this forum makes possible.

For anyone wondering why I don't just buy a cab already, it's because I can't afford a Vewlix direct from Taito yet. Got to have something as my college graduation present right? : D
 

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Your setup is so clean! I love it!

That's something I want to get better about: Presentation.

What make is the supergun? Or is it your own?
 
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Looks nice fish! Very helpful forum indeed, I'm sure you can find a candy cab in your area. Don't they all come from Cali? ;)
 
In the Audio world, many people use the so called FleXY-table concept (or variants of it)

https://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/flexye.html

I would recommend to use always three legs and not four. (or more). It's a matter of geometric stability, you can define every plane with three points.. four is one too much. Or in plain words: it will be more difficult to have full stability if you try to level a plate using four points.

Stability is of course more important for audio applications (turntables), but whatever,.. it's simpler anyway... :)
 
Great info debit, never would have guessed 3 legs are better than 4. Bonus to that is that you can make the double if you ever need more space or want to expand it.

What are they using for feet though?

I will definitely make one of these for my set up one day. :thumbup:
 
I had spikes as legs... For audio you want to decouple the rack from the floor vibrations, so the less contact surface the better.. Now I don't have a DIY anymore, but my commercial 3 leg rack has spikes on it as well.. It also has to support some heavy stuff , The subwoofer amp alone (4000W @4Ohm) weights almost 20kg by itself.

Basically you can use anything that screws to the rod (rubber feet, for example)
 
Can you link a picture or product of these spikes feet? Not sure what these are actually but they sound like conical metal points I'm guessing? Do these tend to damage or dint/mark floors? Especially with over 20kg of amp there must be some mark.
 
it marks the ground for sure, spikes are pointy :) so don't do it on wood or sensitive floors... In that case you need to use some metal disks between the spike and the ground.

That's mine (carpet and concrete floor)

3cXmXtv.jpg


And those are some spikes with the disks:

41JNhGGX6xL._AC_SR201,266_.jpg
 
Only benefit to use spikes is to improve stability on carpet, on a concrete or tiled floor I would use rubbers.
Spikes and rubbers basically do the opposite thing, but the end result is the same.

Many audiophiles spend hundreds of dollars on spikes, where other audiophiles don’t hear any difference ;)
Personal opinion I guess, but if I spend a few hundred bucks on spikes I would swear it would sound better as well to justify my purchase :P
 
My whole house and half of the neighborhood trembles when I turn my home cinema gear on (at 0db I generate earthquake alerts). I really need to isolate the electronic gear from vibrations... My fuses went down everytime I switched on all the amps, until I installed a device to smooth the startup peak..

Spikes work very well, I use it for the rack and one of the subwoofers.. The other two subwoofers are bass shakers and are directly screwed to the platform where the cinema seats are also screwed.. The whole platform is isolated from the ground with special rubber feets.. Too much weight for spikes obviously..

Without isolators the vibrations would kill everything :D
 
Here is my main audio setup:

Hand built by my dad, both woodwork and (most) of the electronics. It’s a blessing and a curse as it takes up a lot of room lol. When I’m in Japan I will have to put it in storage.
 

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The Spaniard said:
I need something like that shelf.

Did you make that yourself out of wood and nuts and bolts?
Click to expand...
The shelf is homemade yes. Basically just as you described: wood, nuts, and bolts. It’s easy but kind of time consuming. It is nice though because I can easily change shelf height. For example here I changed the second shelf to fit the CRT.
 
PascalP said:
Only benefit to use spikes is to improve stability on carpet, on a concrete or tiled floor I would use rubbers.
Spikes and rubbers basically do the opposite thing, but the end result is the same.

Many audiophiles spend hundreds of dollars on spikes, where other audiophiles don’t hear any difference ;)
Personal opinion I guess, but if I spend a few hundred bucks on spikes I would swear it would sound better as well to justify my purchase :P
Click to expand...
I think if you need the audio isolation then the spikes make sense if they do what they actually are said to do, I'm more interested in a budget shelf aspect of it.

I can not imagine spending hundreds for spikes I'd probably go to some metal fab shop and ask them to turn some out for me for way less :)
 
PascalP said:
@The Spaniard, so these $2000 spikes are not for you? :P
https://www.bestsound.no/produkt/soundcare-spikes/high-end-titan-spikes/titan-ekstrem

You can easily match them with a $3500 power strip using $2500 power leads per device, ridiculous IMO ;)
Click to expand...
There’s a neighborhood in (I think) Yokohama where three audiophiles live next to each other and literally bought their own power line for their stereos. It was in a Japanese audiophile magazine I was thumbing through at my dad’s place.
 
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