My room is already full of CPS2 gear, so I need to free up more space. A few days ago, I built a portable monitor using a second‑hand iPad 4, and now I want to get rid of my 14‑inch CRT TV—it takes up too much room, plus the picture quality is terrible for testing games and taking screenshots.
I have a GBS‑8220 that converts RGBS to VGA. I tested Metal Slug 6 and KOF 2002UM over VGA, and the image looks really good. MVS and IGS work great too. But when I connect my CPS2, problems show up: the brightness is way off, character details are hard to see, and there’s heavy color bleeding. I looked through lots of similar posts and couldn’t find a fix.
AI told me the CPS2 outputs a higher RGB voltage level with a very “hard” sync signal. I added a 200‑ohm resistor to each RGBS input line, and the over‑brightness issue went away—the picture is almost perfect now. However, the screen still jumps every few seconds. Right now the GBS‑8220’s 5V power is tapped from my supergun. When I tried using a separate 5V power supply, the screen jumping got even worse.
I have a GBS‑8220 that converts RGBS to VGA. I tested Metal Slug 6 and KOF 2002UM over VGA, and the image looks really good. MVS and IGS work great too. But when I connect my CPS2, problems show up: the brightness is way off, character details are hard to see, and there’s heavy color bleeding. I looked through lots of similar posts and couldn’t find a fix.
AI told me the CPS2 outputs a higher RGB voltage level with a very “hard” sync signal. I added a 200‑ohm resistor to each RGBS input line, and the over‑brightness issue went away—the picture is almost perfect now. However, the screen still jumps every few seconds. Right now the GBS‑8220’s 5V power is tapped from my supergun. When I tried using a separate 5V power supply, the screen jumping got even worse.
