Help me fix this Xmen Children of the Atom cab!

[ChipDamageRed]

what's up guys, so I have had this cab in my garage for a while now and I'm finally up for fixing it. I have a ton of stupid questions because I've never done this before. I might have to ask what everything is called and where everything goes, but that's how you learn right?
Ok so here is as far as I got. The buttons and joysticks hardly worked so I figured that's where I should start. The control panel is huge, but I took it off, removed the buttons and sticks, cleaned it and replaced them, put new cherry switches on and its ready to get put back on.
Here are the stupid questions.
I would like to rewire the whole thing because it's all old and also for my knowledge of cabinets. So is there a specific type of wire I should be using? And do you have a recommendation for a store or a website? I also need those wire connectors. Any info on this is helpful.
Another thing is the monitor isnt great. There is a dial on the back that's actually broken off. The screen is yellow when you remove the dial, and when you press it back on the screen looks better, but the dial doesnt stay. My question is, can I replace the piece with the dial, or do I have to replace the whole monitor? And recommendations for where to buy a new monitor?
That's all for now. I'm not trying to get too far ahead of myself. Thanks to anyone who responds and helps! -Justin

 

[ZERO_MILES]

Wow, that control panel overlay is very cool! I wonder if there's a hi-res version of it online somewhere...

I would like to rewire the whole thing because it's all old and also for my knowledge of cabinets. So is there a specific type of wire I should be using? And do you have a recommendation for a store or a website? I also need those wire connectors. Any info on this is helpful.

You should be OK with 22AWG for video, controls, audio (if you're not running an amp). I'd use 20AWG for power and grounding.

Another thing is the monitor isnt great. There is a dial on the back that's actually broken off. The screen is yellow when you remove the dial, and when you press it back on the screen looks better, but the dial doesnt stay.

Don't mess around with those 2 dials on the monitor chassi! There should be a row somewhere with controls for Red, Green, Blue, Contrast, Brightness, V-Sync, H-Sync...

 

[ChipDamageRed]

I only messed with them enough to try and make the screen look better. I'm just having an issue where that dial is broken off and it doesnt stay. When the dial isnt there, the screen is all yellow. Do you know if I can replace that part? Or will I have to replace the monitor?

 

[ChipDamageRed]

I looked online for new artwork, but couldn't find any with the same pattern. In the end I decided to keep it even though it's kind of faded.
Thanks for the tip on the wires. I appreciate it!

 

[shess]

If you want to replace all the wiring, just look for a prebuilt Jamma harness.

Those 2 knobs are part of the flyback. How's your soldering skill? If you've never messed with a monitor before, I would stay far away from the repair because the voltages can be lethal. The key thing to remember with a monitor is to discharge it before attempting any work.

 

[ChipDamageRed]

that pre built jamma harness looks like the way to go! Hopefully they have one with cps2. I've never soldered anything before, but I knew I would have to get into it soon. Might as well start now. Do you have any tips for soldering kits or maybe YouTube videos for beginners? Anything you recommend practicing on? I usually can do anything if I practice so I'm sure I can figure it out.

 

[shess]

You'll want something to use for desoldering (gun, pump, braid). I used a radioshack desoldering tool with squeeze bulb for a long time and then traded it out for a pushbutton desoldering pump (same price but a bit better). You'll then need something to solder with. The radioshack pencil soldering tool worked for me for a long time until I upgraded to a digital soldering station.

Regarding the flyback, you'll need to figure out which monitor model you have and then find the appropriate flyback. It should be $20-$40. You can find jillions of youtube videos on how to solder, but the best way is to practice on a junk board (find some electronic junk in the trash).

For your case, you'll need to look up how to 1. discharge the monitor 2. remove the chassis 3. replace the flyback . Do not skip step 1.

 

[ChipDamageRed]

For your case, you'll need to look up how to 1. discharge the monitor 2. remove the chassis 3. replace the flyback . Do not skip step 1.

thanks bro. I already started researching discharging a monitor. Thanks for all the tips guys this is helping a whole lot.

 

[shess]

I'll tell you how I do it. If you die or lose an arm, it's not my fault. Obviously make sure the machine is powered off. Then I take a long piece of thick gauge wire (think house wiring or electrical cord) and strip both ends maybe an inch or 2. I wrap one end around the metal part of the screwdriver and then the other end wraps around a piece of the monitor frame (there are usually holes up and down the frame). Wearing a glove and with one hand in my pocket, I stick the screwdriver tip under the rubber suction cup at the top of the tube. If it was recently powered up, you should hear a pop or sizzle sound when it touches the metal clamp. You could leave it there a few minutes if you want. Afterward, I use the screwdriver to pry/push the metal clamp of the flyback wire (think of a reverse alligator clip) and pull the suction cup off the tube. After that, you should be safe to remove the chassis.