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I'm excited to have a HAS supergun on the way and I'd like to order a high quality power supply for it. From what I've read an arcade power supply is the way to go due to its adjustable 5v and since not putting a load on an ATX power supply's 3.3v rail can damage it.

I saw that the Happ power supply is UL/CE certified which is great:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Happ-15-AM...de-8-Liner-Games/111914266505?epid=1331409792

I don't mind paying for high quality so please let me know if there's a better choice.
 

Frank_fjs

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I think that PSU will be fine.

Mean Well make very nice quality power supplies too.

I highly doubt damage will be done to any ATX power supply without a 3.3V load, seems absurd. Does this also mean arcade PSUs are damaged when not running -5V? I don't think so.
 

twistedsymphony

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I mean, if you're worried about it just get a high watt resistor to put on the 3.3V line when not in use... there's your load.
 

pacoarcade

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Hi, I bought the Prima Power PSU linked in this thread:
Home Arcade System - new supergun sets

It apparently works fine (I've not tested it with a scope), but it has crappy capacitors like CapXon and Jamicon. I continue looking for the highest quality PSU built with good capacitors (Rubycon, Panasonic, Nichicon and Chemi-con)
 
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penrhos

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the meanwell RT 50A is used in some superguns and is a drop in replacement for the Sanwa SWN-7E OR SWN-7F.
 

pacoarcade

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I have received a 42PP0606 from an official Suzo distributor and indeed it's the same than the Prima Power MWP-606 bought here, but instead of Capxon capacitors it has Chemi-con, that's good!

Anyway it still has random brand capacitors. I'm still looking for a low noise PSU (ideally with incorporated EMI filter like this one) that only uses premium capacitors: Rubycon, Panasonic (Matsushita), Nichicon and Chemicon (and maybe Samxon).
 

pacoarcade

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422PP0606 is low noise and it has EMI filter too. I bought it because it's RGB's favorite. "I recommend you buy a Mean Well MWP-606 or SUZO 42PP0606, the best PSU I've tested so far. The metal cage is really sturdy, build quality is top notch and the PSU doesn't get hot." (source)

I wonder how it compares with that Power Pro.

If I had the adequate equipment I'd like to look for adequate capacitors with similar caracteristics to replace bad ones (jamicon, capxon, vent, etc) for Panasonic/Rubycon/Chemicon/Nichicon in my first MWP-606 PSU.
 

andynumbers

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For my HAS setup, I preferred using a "box" style arcade PSU instead of one with screw terminals. I don't feel comfortable leaving exposed AC terminals out in the open. What I did was take an old one and refurbished it by replacing all the caps with the highest quality Panasonic caps.

I use one with the large box like this one: http://www.twistedquarter.com/index...ducts_id=232&zenid=q8ndrup1egn2j5mbgr6i8uukj2

The nice thing about these compared to the ATX-sized arcade box power supplies is that these are basically the same screw-terminal power supplies, just placed in a box.
 

pacoarcade

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Have you measured the ripple and noise from the PSU with the new caps and a good analog scope? From what I've read in Badcaps Forum replacing capacitors in a PSU is delicate, you may end with more ripple if you choose capacitors with different parameters like ESR.

I've experienced problems replacing general purpose caps with low esr in other applications, so highest quality is not always the best.
 

andynumbers

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I am not an engineer, but I believe that arcade switching power supplies are much simpler in design and have fewer parts compared to PC power supplies. Because of this, it would be reasonable to believe that the tolerances for arcade power supplies are much more lenient when it comes to changing out capacitors. Again, I am not an engineer and this is just purely speculation. FWIW, the badcaps forum tends to focus specifically on PC power supplies and motherboards.
 

pacoarcade

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I have opened both PSUs and the only difference I have found is that one of them uses 2x Chemi-con KY 1000uF 16V while the other has Capxon GL 1000uF 16V. The known bad caps on these PSUs are Capxon and Jamicon but I'll also replace Samxon.

  • Capxon GL 10x25 1000µF 16V Ripple: 1180 Impedance: 50mΩ
  • Capxon GL 10x12.5 470µF 16V Ripple: 722 Impedance: 95mΩ
  • Capxon GS 10x15 22µF 50V
  • Capxon KM 47µF 50V
  • Jamicon TK 1µF 50V
  • Jamicon TK 4.7µF 50V
  • Samxon LP 220µF 250V
  • Samxon KM 2.2µF 50V
Looking for ripple current and impedance in the datasheets I have found these possible alternatives with very similar characteristics:
  • Panasonic FC 1000µF 16V 10x25 Ripple: 1440 Impedance: 45mΩ
  • Panasonic FC 470µF 16V 10x12.5 Ripple: 755 Impedance: 90mΩ
  • Rubycon YXM 22µF 50V
  • Rubycon YXM 47µF 50V
  • Rubycon YXM 1µF 50V or Rubycon YXF/YXJ 1µF 50V
  • Rubycon YXM 4.7µF 50V
  • Rubycon YXM 2.2µF 50V
  • Rubycon VXH 390µF 250V or Nippon Chemi-con KMQ 220µF 250V

If you mess with PSUs please be sure the capacitors are fully discharged before touching its legs.

mwp-606-recap.jpg
 
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nem

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May I ask what's the point of this?

Do you expect to see a discernible difference in the video output? Do you not want to run your expensive boards on a PSU that has higher ripple as it may cause damage over time? Some other reason?

I feel you're going through a lot of trouble over something that likely has no added benefit.
 

pacoarcade

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Using premium quality capacitors in my PSU gives me peace of mind. I want to avoid future problems due to crappy electrolytics going out of spec.
 

tiff_lee

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The price of those PSUs make them almost a consumable item. While using good quality components for trouble free service is logical to a point, you would probably get just as much use from the cheaper ones except may only last 10 years and not 20!

Have you actually scoped the output of the PSU, do any caps actually need changing? the guys on badcaps would replace the caps in anything and everything afterall it is what the forum lives for.
 

pacoarcade

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The PSU is brand new so probably it's working well, but I stand against the use and throw of electronics.
Since the electrolytic capacitors are so important (specially in a PSU) I want mine to have top quality ones.

You have a good point though. Since it's a cheap product maybe the other components are not so good and I should replace the PSU in 5 years, but I tend to think that the other components will not wear while not in use as fast as electrolytic capacitors.
 
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I can't speak to replacing caps but my audio and video experience tells me that a higher quality lower noise power supply can make a noticeable difference in both.
 

pacoarcade

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I have replaced all electrolytics capacitors and I think the PSU works better. Unfortunately I don't have a good scope to properly measure it but I got rid of a very slight interference in some games, and when I use the voltimeter it stays fixed instead of moving in a range of 0.01V (for example, it stays at 5.05 instead of showing 5.04 and then 5.05 continuosly), I think that means there is less ripple. I notice a great image quality, but it was very good before recapping and I can't measure it I can't say for sure.

I have used Rubycon YXM (and YXF for 1µF 50V since I couldn't find that value) to replace General Purpose parts, these are long life 105ºC automotive Standard caps. I have been recommended to use low ESR instead, but I prefer to keep the same type of capacitor. To replace the low ESR parts (Capxon GL or Chemi-con KY) I have used Panasonic FC (10mm diameter) that have very similar ESR for these values.

Following the advice of a badcaps guy I have replaced the two input filters Samxon LP 220µF 250V with two Rubycon VXH 390µF 250V, they are only 1cm larger but they fit perfectly.
 
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stj

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you get about. :)

the main thing is cooling, if it's a big cab with nothing above the supply then fine.
if it's a compact cab or the psu is in a drawer under something (like goliath mk2/3) then put a fan on the cover.
 

nio

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I have opened both PSUs and the only difference I have found is that one of them uses 2x Chemi-con KY 1000uF 16V while the other has Capxon GL 1000uF 16V. The known bad caps on these PSUs are Capxon and Jamicon but I'll also replace Samxon.

  • Capxon GL 10x25 1000µF 16V Ripple: 1180 Impedance: 50mΩ
  • Capxon GL 10x12.5 470µF 16V Ripple: 722 Impedance: 95mΩ
  • Capxon GS 10x15 22µF 50V
  • Capxon KM 47µF 50V
  • Jamicon TK 1µF 50V
  • Jamicon TK 4.7µF 50V
  • Samxon LP 220µF 250V
  • Samxon KM 2.2µF 50V
Looking for ripple current and impedance in the datasheets I have found these possible alternatives with very similar characteristics:
  • Panasonic FC 1000µF 16V 10x25 Ripple: 1440 Impedance: 45mΩ
  • Panasonic FC 470µF 16V 10x12.5 Ripple: 755 Impedance: 90mΩ
  • Rubycon YXM 22µF 50V
  • Rubycon YXM 47µF 50V
  • Rubycon YXM 1µF 50V or Rubycon YXF/YXJ 1µF 50V
  • Rubycon YXM 4.7µF 50V
  • Rubycon YXM 2.2µF 50V
  • Rubycon VXH 390µF 250V or Nippon Chemi-con KMQ 220µF 250V

If you mess with PSUs please be sure the capacitors are fully discharged before touching its legs.

mwp-606-recap.jpg
Do you know what the empty places are good for?
 
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