Its true, once you start to see the imperfections in the image you can't unsee them.Because if you hear how the rest of us graduate level arcade snobs see things, you are going to hate your arcade experience.
The expensive lifestyleOh, and I got so busy talking about cabs stuff I almost forgot...
Welcome to the exciting world of cab ownership/the home arcade operator lifestyle!
1) These often need to be cut down to size, unless your cab is 24" wide... If larger than 24" try this one.1. The marquee bottom holding bracket is missing, seems it was just electrical tape holding up the plexi. Is there a suitable place to find a replacement? Or perhaps some other material I can fashion into a bracket? It's about 25-26 inches long.
2. The sound I noticed was only coming out of one speaker! I see that one of the speaker drivers isn't even connected. Would the output from the Jamma on a cps2 board supply stereo audio to the drivers? Seems they are wired in a piggyback fashion. Or should I somehow use the RCA jacks on the CPS2 board and connect those to the drivers?
3. I've been IPA cotton swapping these boards for hours now, and the blackness is truly terrifying. Is there a faster and safe method to clean these boards?
4. Anywhere I can get replica artwork for the marquee and control artwork? The ones I have are brittle and sunfaded yellow as you can see.
5. How can I repair the nicks, dents, dings, scratches on the wood parts and sides? Some videos say to use bondo, sand it, then paint it. This is my first and only cab, so I wanna make it look purdy. Any recommendations on paint type?
https://bit-district.com/arcade/capcom-cps2/capcom-cps2-replacement-buttons.htmlIt appears it's a common problem, so I will have to investigate a replacement option in the future.
Buying from High Score Saves? MVC has a G Pal, you should be all set. But you can open up the B Board shell (you're going to need to anyway when you install the multi) and look. While you're in there replace the CPS2 fan!4. Darksoft multi - Only thing holding me back on this is knowing if I need the GPAL option that's on the drop down boxes, and ofcourse $400+.
TDA7297 stereo amp is ideal. Cheap, powerful, good quality for the application. You'll need to de-pin the Molex connector where 12volts is coming from. Snip off the connecting pins. Splice in 12volt lead wire into the same wires. Re-crimp them together. Re-terminate them in the connector. Then reconnect it.1. Sound - So currently it's just hooked up to the standard mono out from JAMMA to the speakers directly. It works but sounds like shit. I would love to get some kind of simple amp and set it up to use Stereo, problem is I don't know how to tie in an amp into the power supply I have in there. It doesn't have the forks, it uses these big square molex type connectors. If anyone has recommendations on an amp and how I could wire it into the cabinet, that would be great!
You're getting fleeced. You can order new coin mech locks from twisty's arcade for $3.2. I bought 2 replacement key locks because I drilled out the originals. Thing is, I didn't realize there was different sizes. The ones I bought come up short, and the sliding arm doesn't latch shut as it hits the inside metal. I looked into getting a coin mech and figured it would be just a simple swap out of the top door, but the email from TQ guy mentioned it cannot be done like that. Apparently I have what's called a "over / under" type setup, and the entire two metal door piece would need to be replaced to give me a coin mech. It's a superfluous expenditure but would be cool to have. I ain't ready to throw down 100+ $$$ for one though.
As @ekorz mentions, @'twistedsymphony''s solution is marvelous and unbreakable.3. CPS2 replacement buttons - Mine disintegrated... I see there is a 3D printed version, but also read a thread by @undamned who mentioned they are also prone to break. He has some kind of contraption in the works, some pcb with buttons. Not sure what it's for or if I should look into it?
MvC uses a G-Pal already.4. Darksoft multi - Only thing holding me back on this is knowing if I need the GPAL option that's on the drop down boxes, and ofcourse $400+.
Get the right color temperator. None of that yellow light. I recommend 4k color temperature. 5k starts to turn blue. and under 4k is yellow.5. Fix the humming/buzzing of the light fixture. It's now louder than the fans that used to be the loudest part.
Trust me, if you are happy with it, you don't want to explore CRT calibration any further. Right @jassin000?6. I bought some magnet strips but not sure if I need them. I can tell some tinkering with the colors/brightness/contrast is in order on my cabinet, but I don't know if I have any alignment issues. I do notice the screen size seems to change. I am not sure if this is the flicker effect on the game itself or my monitor. I turned off flicker in the bios as it was annoying me. I may need to take a video of this to get input. I don't know if this is a feature of the game, or my monitor isn't holding it's vertical/horizontal shape correctly. I also don't know what a good CRT is supposed to output. Despite the size issue, it looks fine to me but then again I have nothing to compare it to.
Is the "pincussion" something that adjusts with the width coil, or some other knob I need to take a look at?Looks to be both width and pincushion adjustments that are needed.
Yea you're going to need to adjust it "live" and yes be careful (now you starting to see why I say CRTs suck, cuz they do).