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imbord3rlin3's Egret 29 Restore Thread

Did you sand the parts before appying the vinyl paint? My experience with using that paint on plastics has been... not great. It doesn't seem to adhere well and tears right off like a rubberized coating. Not sure if it's just not the "right plastic" or if I needed to sand the surface more, or what... cab looks great though!
 
kazuo said:
Did you sand the parts before appying the vinyl paint? My experience with using that paint on plastics has been... not great.
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It's not vinyl paint, it's vinyl dye, as in a dye made for vinyl. The intended purpose is to spray on vinyl fabric surfaces in car interiors to change their color. it's not a coating, it literally soaks into the plastic. Sanding the surface before spraying is NOT recommended because it will result in a surface with the sanded texture.
 
kazuo said:
Did you sand the parts before appying the vinyl paint? My experience with using that paint on plastics has been... not great. It doesn't seem to adhere well and tears right off like a rubberized coating. Not sure if it's just not the "right plastic" or if I needed to sand the surface more, or what... cab looks great though!
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i did not sand at all. i just washed with soap and water, dried, then painted. i can scratch my fingernail across the painted surface and it does not scratch.

oops guess is didnt press send when i wrote this
 
sad to say 48 hours after paint, my hand print stuck inside the finish after a 2 hour game session. gonna have to look at other paints to make this cp as durable as it was before i painted it. gonna look further into cerakoting possibly.
 
twistedsymphony said:
It's not vinyl paint, it's vinyl dye, as in a dye made for vinyl. The intended purpose is to spray on vinyl fabric surfaces in car interiors to change their color. it's not a coating, it literally soaks into the plastic. Sanding the surface before spraying is NOT recommended because it will result in a surface with the sanded texture.
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You're right, it's a dye, not paint. As I said though, I have used this exact same can of paint (the white one even), on plastic, and the results were not good. Didn't matter if I sanded or not. Just comes right off like a rubber coating. I tried it out because I heard the same "it soaks into the plastic!" stuff and that just doesn't seem to be the case for me, regardless of whether or not I sand the plastic first.
 
When I first started using this I actually cut open the plastic that I used it on and was able to confirm it did indeed soak into the plastic. I've also used it on areas that I was able to sand after using it and was able to sand down into the material with the color holding fast through the sanded area.

I believe you when you say it didn't soak into the plastic you used it on, but I'd suspect there are limits to it's compatibility (it is after-all intended specifically for vinyl).
I have found some material that it does NOT work well on and certainly if the plastic has been painted or treated in some way then this will most definitely not work. attempting to use this on metal I saw it sheet up and peel off as you describe

I can, however confirm that it does work quite well specifically on the Egret 29's plastics.
 
I tried applying vinyl dye to a Net City control panel surround and the dye wouldn't seep in to the plastic. It would come off with a finger nail.

So yes, it very much depends on the plastic. It needs to be porous. Not all plastic is.
 
You need to use an adhesion promoter on plastics period. SEM XXX or their normal plastic adhesion promoter are wonderful - the selection is based on what type of plastic you are applying it to, so check the MDS.

With all adhesion promoters, they will soften the top layer for chemical bonding, so you must not touch anything after laying down the adhesion coat. You then lay your paint over the adhesion coat within the proper working window. I have done this with seat trim on a vehicle and still looks perfect 6 years later. The paint will never flake and you can preserve any existing texture as you don't have to sand anything.

If there is already a finish on the plastic that you want to remove, I recommend soaking in Purple Power undiluted for a few days. Be warned that this will eat aluminum but all other metals are fine.

Cure time for solvents to fully make their way out of the paint is a min of 1 week to be safe. If you smell paint, it hasn't cured. After the initial flash, leave it out in the sun and it will cure much faster.
 
THCsoftcore said:
You need to use an adhesion promoter on plastics period. SEM XXX or their normal plastic adhesion promoter are wonderful - the selection is based on what type of plastic you are applying it to, so check the MDS.

With all adhesion promoters, they will soften the top layer for chemical bonding, so you must not touch anything after laying down the adhesion coat. You then lay your paint over the adhesion coat within the proper working window. I have done this with seat trim on a vehicle and still looks perfect 6 years later. The paint will never flake and you can preserve any existing texture as you don't have to sand anything.

If there is already a finish on the plastic that you want to remove, I recommend soaking in Purple Power undiluted for a few days. Be warned that this will eat aluminum but all other metals are fine.

Cure time for solvents to fully make their way out of the paint is a min of 1 week to be safe. If you smell paint, it hasn't cured. After the initial flash, leave it out in the sun and it will cure much faster.
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Good to know. I'm gonna tackle that in another month when it's consistently hot and dry. New England spring is shit for painting. I just couldn't wait and paid the price for it fortunately it's easy to undo.
 
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