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Initial D drive motor / transformer help

Arcade_Replay

Arcade_Replay

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So I bought an Initial d 8 machine running off 220-240v, we run off 120v here.

I was able to bypass the transformer and power up everything with 120v minus the force feedback board since in the manual its asking for 100v.

game works but obviously not the force feedback.

my question is, does the force feedback board need a transformer to run correctly or can I just get a 120v to 100v converter...

thanks!
 
I doubt the force feedback board is that strict on voltage. Almost all Japanese electronics are specced to work with a range of 90-130VAC.
 
The machines are built to run multi region / voltage. The parts are not region specific that would cost them a fortune in extra parts.

The only thing is your input transformer probably needs to be replaced or moved to the correct voltage taps for your region.
I cant remember if these machines have one but its a good idea to check it.
Check your main input transformer right were the wall outlet enters the cab there should be a huge transformer and it MAY have tap points to change the voltage to 100 or 110 v AC.

But the force feedback and other components dont need any replacements or changes. Even the RE2 system's power supply is like a modern day computer PSU (because it is) and supports multiple input voltages its probably printed on there somewhere 100~220VAC
 
GeekMan1222 said:
The machines are built to run multi region / voltage. The parts are not region specific that would cost them a fortune in extra parts.

The only thing is your input transformer probably needs to be replaced or moved to the correct voltage taps for your region.
I cant remember if these machines have one but its a good idea to check it.
Check your main input transformer right were the wall outlet enters the cab there should be a huge transformer and it MAY have tap points to change the voltage to 100 or 110 v AC.

But the force feedback and other components dont need any replacements or changes. Even the RE2 system's power supply is like a modern day computer PSU (because it is) and supports multiple input voltages its probably printed on there somewhere 100~220VAC
Click to expand...
so the force feedback motor doesn't require a transformer like an older crt monitor? just as long as the force feedback motor is getting the 100v its asking for I should be fine?

nem said:
I doubt the force feedback board is that strict on voltage. Almost all Japanese electronics are specced to work with a range of 90-130VAC.
Click to expand...

so as long as the force feedback motor is getting the correct voltage (100v) I shouldn't need a transformer that is present in the machine correct?
 
Check if the transformer that is already installed has a tap for 120VAC input. It will be marked on the sticker on the side.

If it doesn't, just bypass the whole thing. You do not need the step down transformer, however, there is no harm in using one.
 
Thanks again guys.

had some time to work on my machines this weekend. Apparently I have 2 Chinese Initial D 8 machines. Wiring is completely different from the Japanese unit.

My Chinese unit has a transformer with an input of 220v and an output of 110v.

I simply bypassed the transformer completely so the whole machine is getting 110v. The force feedback motor says it needs 100v from the wiring schematics. the 110v-115v from our walls will not damage the force feedback motor.

Just putting this out there in case someone gets a Chinese unit and doesn't want to use a 110v to 220v step up.
 
Sounds correct and yep the Asia region cabs tend to have weird changes internally but externally are very similar if not the same as JPN region machines. (meanwhile US region cabs are just wooden copys with w/e molex and home made wiring loom the factory happens to make with all the custom parts given to them.)
 
Yeah, the Japanese cabinets are so much nicer to work on than US. The US harnesses are such a mess with no easy way to separate anything out of it if you need to, and have wires for one connection running through the middle of the wiring for another connection, to the point where you seriously have to temporarily de-pin things if you want to take a portion of the wiring out or re-route anything. Meanwhile, Sega in Japan installed disconnects between the two wood boards so you could take each entire board out of the cabinet with minimal effort, and all the wiring fastened to it was still fastened to it. They also had the multi-voltage transformers like what was mentioned above, where you just have to move the power input position within a 3x3 9-pin connector to change it (at least for mid-'90s Model 2 ones).

If you want to remove something from the Japanese wiring, just cut the zip ties and remove it. If you want to remove something from a US harness, just cut the zip ties, and slowly realize the hell you have made for yourself if you didn't intend on just cutting through the other wiring.
 
I ended up buying an Outrun 2 harness from Yaton to fix my wiring issues, fortunately it all worked out
 
GeekMan1222 said:
Sounds correct and yep the Asia region cabs tend to have weird changes internally but externally are very similar if not the same as JPN region machines. (meanwhile US region cabs are just wooden copys with w/e molex and home made wiring loom the factory happens to make with all the custom parts given to them.)
Click to expand...
Hi Mr Geek, im in simpsonville south carolina im a serious retro gaming collector, some body recommend me you, I want to buy an Astro city candy do you have something for me?
 
Taken to DM's thanks for DM'ing.

Respectfully its in poor taste to post on someones thread like this to get someones attention for something out of topic.
Just looking out for you
 
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