Get the Happ version. Don't go cheap and Chinese. You will hate life.https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Arcade...riorityMailPaddedFlatRateEnvelope!98225!US!-1
Would this cheap one work. It seems to sell a lot?
Well I took your advice and took the PSU out of the cab. I didnt have the hex security but found a close star security that fit and unmounted it.Don't be so eager to replace parts in your cab. Your PSU has life in it. Take it out. Clean it. Clean out the fan (there are videos on Youtube). If it is still loud, buy a new fan which will set you back $5. You might even be able to pilfer a PC fan out of an unused PC case you might have laying around. Adjust the voltages under load. If you can't get a steady +5.0v and +12.0v on the proper rails, then recap it. Also, reflow solder all around. Put it back in and dial in the voltages again.
The only hard part here is that getting out the PSU requires you to remove the monitor. But that isn't an impossible task either.
On the JAMMA edge.Where would I test voltage from if I couldn't use my connected connector?
How would I do that with the jamma board attached? CI use the solder leads on the Jamma PCB going into the connector or would I need to get inside the connector somehow with my multi meter?On the JAMMA edge.Where would I test voltage from if I couldn't use my connected connector?
Watch from where I bookmarked this video:How would I do that with the jamma board attached? CI use the solder leads on the Jamma PCB going into the connector or would I need to get inside the connector somehow with my multi meter?
I'm stoked to be a newb right now.
This information about fundamentals is awesome.
He's testing 5 volts. What about balance between -5, 12+, +5? I learned today that it was important according to the youtube video I clicked.Watch from where I bookmarked this video:How would I do that with the jamma board attached? CI use the solder leads on the Jamma PCB going into the connector or would I need to get inside the connector somehow with my multi meter?
I'm stoked to be a newb right now.
This information about fundamentals is awesome.
Check at arcadepartsandrepair.com to see if there is a cap kit for your PSU. There is a cap kit for your monitor which I believe is a K7000A, for which you can use a K7000 cap kit. But you will likely not find a flyback for your K7000A Zenith chassis. Take a pic of your monitor chassis and post it here and we can confirm for you.I would if I can find a cap kit.
I would rather not read caps and order generic ones.
Also I’m an amateur when it comes to soldering so I’m taking my work to a local electronic repair.
I just popped the monitor out and am taking it to get the fly back, pcb, and neckboard pcb capped and replaced.
1-7 are roms. Find out what rom types they are (the silk screening on the rom) and look for the schematics online. That should tell you what pin is +5v and Gnd.Here is my PCB.
I am unsure which rom is best for testing 5+V.
I am not sure if its the raiden 2 black chips or the chips labeled with tape.
I got this one:Check at arcadepartsandrepair.com to see if there is a cap kit for your PSU. There is a cap kit for your monitor which I believe is a K7000A, for which you can use a K7000 cap kit. But you will likely not find a flyback for your K7000A Zenith chassis. Take a pic of your monitor chassis and post it here and we can confirm for you.I would if I can find a cap kit.
I would rather not read caps and order generic ones.
Also I’m an amateur when it comes to soldering so I’m taking my work to a local electronic repair.
I just popped the monitor out and am taking it to get the fly back, pcb, and neckboard pcb capped and replaced.
I tested the Jamma edge and the rom chips 4 and 5 and tested 4.8V on the ROM and 5.6 on the JAMMA edge on. I am afraid to bring the rom over 5 volts with that difference.