JVS/JAMMA CBOX PROBLEMS

[plasticfactory]

Do you know if this works both ways?

https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...out-scart-to-4-x-bnc--2-x-rca-converter-cable

I have BNC adapters to convert that end to RCA female, which would let me plug in my existing cable to this, and the SCART end directly to the Retrotink.

I'm assuming this will work, but I also assumed the RGB cable would work, lol.

EDIT: as for the Ebay link above, when I shared it I was on my phone and didn't realize it was a female SCART lead.

 

[Joko3]

I'm not certain if it would work in reverse, but if I had to bet money on it I would lean on no because it's wired so that the SCART side is input and the 4BNC is output. This is used with SCART switching boxes. I suppose you could change the wiring on the SCART end; I did this on a cable that was supposed to input into a Framemeister, but I wanted it to output from a Jasen's Customs MK30 supergun instead (just had to move some stuff around on the SCART side with a soldering iron which took five minutes). You could probably ask them to wire it for you the way you want though and avoid the trouble.

That being said though, for the same amount of money, you can just get the SCART cable you need that will be guaranteed to work from the get go. It will be way less cumbersome, and you can always keep that RGB15 to 5BNC cable you have in storage in case you ever score a pro-CRT monitor later down the road.

In addition to messaging RetroGamingCables UK and Retro-Access, If you put a WTB ad up here on the forum maybe somebody will even offer to make you a cable for a charge or point you in the right direction. Reference the pictures I gave you for the pinout to ensure you get what you need. Because it is his supergun, you could try messaging Axun as well. Message on his website, not here. If all you need is a cable he may be able to get one out to you if he has extras. I imagine that for cables he makes them that it's done in multiples and not one at a time when ordered as he does with superguns.

 

[plasticfactory]

Thanks for all the tips. I emailed RGC who essentially ignored my request and said "don't connect a supergun to the Retrotink", haven't heard back from users on here, and am waiting on a response from Axun. I ordered what is listed as a DIN8 to SCART, and VGA to SCART from RGC just to get the ball rolling, but am hoping to get a more "official" response soon. I also ordered the exact cable from Axun.

EDIT: this is the reply I received:

"Without knowing whether the output levels of the RGB are correctly attenuated for 75ohm consumer grade equipment I wouldn't make a cable for it unfortunately.

The CBOX is based on an Arcade board, this uses TTL video, which is not designed for consumer grade TVs and up scallers."

Is there more specific information published that could help this along? I have a feeling I'm gonna be waiting for a while from Axun.

 

[plasticfactory]

@Joko3 Alright, so while I'm waiting on the "proper" cables, it occurred to me I could just hook this up via RGB > OSSC.

Using a CPS2 board, it was plug and play, looks great and fires up without issue. Is there anything I should be concerned about with this setup? I'm paranoid to plug in anything more valuable at the moment until I get some feedback; I'm pretty new to this type of arcade setup. Also, are there any adjustments or changes I should be considering?

 

[plasticfactory]

"RGB impedance can be set in 4 modes: pass-through, 75 ohm, 150 ohm, 75 + 150 ohm (now it has been changed to 0-500 ohm linear adjustment)"

How do I do this? The photos appear to use switches, but I have a knob in that area.

 

[djsheep]

"RGB impedance can be set in 4 modes: pass-through, 75 ohm, 150 ohm, 75 + 150 ohm (now it has been changed to 0-500 ohm linear adjustment)"

How do I do this? The photos appear to use switches, but I have a knob in that area.

You just turn the knob and it adjusts.

I would have honestly preferred switches as the knob blows things out quickly.

 

[plasticfactory]

Sorry for the noob questions, but how do I know when it's set on a specific impedance, or correctly in general? Or am I basically just adjusting until it looks right? I'm mostly just afraid of damaging my RT5X.

 

[djsheep]

You don’t know the impedance with the knob which is why the switches are better.

Just leave it on factory settings, or what looks right.

 

[plasticfactory]

Thanks, that's what I did. It seems odd not to use the switches but I suppose some people prefer the finer adjustment.

This is not so much a CBOX problem, but maybe you can help -- I have total success using it with every arcade PCB I have thrown at it, but I simply cannot get my m72 multi to display the entire screen (vertical). After all my tweaking on the rt5x I figured this is just how it is (weird resolution input or something), but wondered if there is anything else I could try?

EDIT: more specifically, it's cut off on the bottom where you would typically see scores. I've tried adjusting crop/scale settings in the rt5x with no luck.

 

[djsheep]

Not sure sorry. Don’t use modern screens for JAMMA.

FWIW, M72, Toaplan, etc. have different screen real estate than most other boards.

 

[plasticfactory]

Believe me, I'd rather not use a modern screen. I'll be picking up a BVM soon.