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luke7110

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Hi all, when I bought my working KI PCB I also got a spare, non functioning PCB, said "for parts".
Some components from the audio section were missing : the amp, opamp, DAC and the main CPU was missing the heatsink... but I I was thinking, why wouldn't I give it a go ? It looks like there's no major damage.
So I ordered the missing parts, these are still quite easy to source, and not very expensive. I already received and soldered the amp, and still waiting for the rest.

In the meantime I decided to inspect the board more deeply, at first sight the solderings were ok, there were a few bridges from the solder that spread from the component desoldering (it looks like they used a heat gun), no apparent cut traces or other problems.
Then, I inspected the main CPU with MM and microscope, and sadly found a huge mess on one corner (6 pins at least, maybe 7, starting from #53)
No other pin look lifted and I did my best to check continuity between the legs and the pads of all the other pins of the cpu. Everything seem well soldered.

Here is the mess:
My first though was it's dead, because of the missing 53 and 54 pads. But according to the datasheet 4 pins on each corner are N.C., so basically useless ?

After a deep MM test, despite appearances, all the pins are connected correctly except for pin 57.
Pin 60 is connected to the cap
Pin 59 is connected to the solder blob, connected to GND
Pin 58 has continuity with his counterpart on the other side of the PCB (managed to understand where to check thanks to the picture showing the traces under the IC), same for pin 56 and 55

The only one I can't check is pin 57, it's not exposed on the other side of PCB and seems to go nowhere. Maybe there's an intermediate layer of the PCB, invisible from either side ?
Do anyone know where is it supposed to go, and how to check ?

edit.jpg


For the records:
cpu_pinout.png cpu_pack.png

Ok, after the diagnostics, I was optimistic but, to my dismay, this is the only thing I got from powering up the board :
20211102_160319.jpg


What you think about ?
I read in another topic with the same image on the screen that it could be loose pins on the Main CPU, loose pin on a 74 chip or a bad 74 chip.
There's a bunch of 74 chips .... is there a way to test these chips ?

Don't know if there's one or multiple "bong" at the moment cause I still missing the parts in the audio circuitry...
 
That is the screen you will see with a dead cpu or bridged pins or pins not making contact with the board.

If you find a source for cpus please do let me know. There was a source on the utsource website a few years back but sadly a few people bought up the entire stock and they are now hard to find.
 
looks like some tracks are corroded - strange unless it was stored in a stack of other pcb's that had a battery among them.
 
@MickyMac I've looked for 79R4600-100MS on utsource and found this listing https://www.utsource.net/itm/p/9226474.html Is it a fake ? I asked the support why the listing shows a 79R4650 picture and they told me it's a mistake. The part is the 79R4600-100MS and they're available, used but available. According to the description 98% chance the part works 😁
@stj You mean around the 53 to 60 pads ? It makes me think they tried to desolder the cpu and they tore off a piece of the pcb when pulling the cpu, while solder weren't totally melted. Then they tried to repair the mess but the pcb still doesn't boot, and they quit.
 
That is great Luke, thanks for sharing the link. I've an email from utsource just from April saying "no stock". They must have found some after all. Well done on finding it.

It might be worth you picking one up and soldering that to the board in case the CPU is toast.

If you are going to try it, just make sure the pads are 100% clean before placing the replacement down on the pads as the pitch on the pins is brutal.

No idea on the specific "74 chip" that can cause these symptoms. Perhaps message CoolFox to ask what 74 chip he was referring to?


Good luck and please do post your progress :)
 
You're welcome ! I'm not confident in swapping the cpu, I will ask a professional to do the job eventually... What's your progress on your side ? I think you need to have sound roms and a working sound circuit in order to go further than the blue screen.
 
Last time I looked at it was a few months ago. I burned new sound roms and scrubbed up the joints but it was the same behaviour. I also piggy backed RAM (after watching this video
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_ghduzlwSQ
) to see if it made a change to the garbage junk vertical lines on the screen but it didn't make any change.

Was working on a checkerboard Naomi 2 last week and that is still an issue. Not having much luck with that one either although I have one last idea on that one.

I did recently fix sound on a Bad Dudes (bad ram) and a non-booting Jackal (back CPU and bad ROM) so at least there was some success :D
 
Your super clever, wish i had the skills and tools to carry out this type of work, i can do basic soldering but what you guys do with chips and stuff is amazing keeping these old games alive.. Good work mate keep going and show us the results
 
Hey - I hope it's ok to resurrect this thread. If not, I'll make a new one...

Anyway, I have a KI2 board that was in pretty rough looking shape when I got it. The board was super dirty, the game would stutter and freeze, and no sound what so ever.. After some cleaning, touching up the pins on the cpu, and replacing the U10 socket, the game runs great but I don't get sound.

On boot, I don't get a bong on blue screen but immediately after red screen I get what sounds like the game audio but scratchy for a split second then a bong. About 2 seconds later I get another bong then sometimes 1 more.When the game switches to the title screen after adding a credit, I sometimes get that same second of what sounds like the game audio trying to work.

Inside the service menu, when I run the sound test, I only ever get one bong stating that everything is ok. Prior to that, I'd get on stating the U10 was erroring. Inspecting it revealed that the socket was a bit messed up.

There was a point while trying to trouble shoot this that I somehow stumbled on applying pressure to pin 6 on the GAL20V8B while on the "Playhard Tune" in Play Samples of the diagnostic, it would just play. Nothing else in that sample set would, just "Playhard Tune". After removing pressure it would stop and re-applying pressure wouldn't work anymore. However this was only the case before re-socketing the U10. As a test, I socketed the GAL20V8B and even tried swapping it with the one in my KI board and vice versa - no sound when using the KI1 GAL20V8B and KI1 sound still worked with the KI2 GAL20V8B.

At this point I'm not really sure what route to go down next - maybe replacing the caps around the audio. I figure it's either that or maybe bad sound ram BUT I honestly have no idea.

If anyone has any insight or tips, it would be much appreciated.
 
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