What's new
hi Caius. Thx for the update. I see the two ram palettes and the two chips from the below the custom in your reproduction.
are the long components in your reproduction resistors? did you get them from somewhere in the pcb?

do you need to provide new ram palettes for the reproduction? because i think that is the reason the custom fails.

could you elaborate more in the steps? :)

cheers, edwin.
The three components mounted vertically are the Konami ''052325' RGB DAC.I took them from another PCB but I could also use my reproduction instead:

http://www.jammarcade.net/konami-052535-reproduction/

Or implement the circuit directly on my repro but I chose a modular solution so I can replace them if they ever fail.

The original custom contains the two RAMs but all other ICs are in form of bare die.Hence for my reproduction I didn't do any decapping (it would have been useless since I'm not able to identify bare die) but I studied the color circuit design on other Konami PCBs
Anyway if I ever sell this reproduction (only fully assembled, no DIY kit) it will be not really cheap since it's made of many parts.Plus you have to consider the time spent for engineering.
Now my question.Are you trying to steal info to repair your faulty module or do your own reproduction? :)
 
hi Caius. Thx for the update. I see the two ram palettes and the two chips from the below the custom in your reproduction.
are the long components in your reproduction resistors? did you get them from somewhere in the pcb?

do you need to provide new ram palettes for the reproduction? because i think that is the reason the custom fails.

could you elaborate more in the steps? :)

cheers, edwin.
The three components mounted vertically are the Konami ''052325' RGB DAC.I took them from another PCB but I could also use my reproduction instead:
http://www.jammarcade.net/konami-052535-reproduction/

Or implement the circuit directly on my repro but I chose a modular solution so I can replace them if they ever fail.

The original custom contains the two RAMs but all other ICs are in form of bare die.Hence for my reproduction I didn't do any decapping (it would have been useless since I'm not able to identify bare die) but I studied the color circuit design on other Konami PCBs
Anyway if I ever sell this reproduction (only fully assembled, no DIY kit) it will be not really cheap since it's made of many parts.Plus you have to consider the time spent for engineering.
Now my question.Are you trying to steal info to repair your faulty module or do your own reproduction? :)
Hi Caius. Thx for your reply. I don't have the skills to make a repro like yours :( . I was just curious how you got that amazing result ;) .

Keep up your marvelous preservation job.
 
Hi Caius. Thx for your reply. I don't have the skills to make a repro like yours :( . I was just curious how you got that amazing result ;) .
Keep up your marvelous preservation job.
Nobody born with the skills, you can have talent but it's nothing without assiduous dedication.
Anyway, I successfully reproduced also the Konami '007327' (used on many PCBs like Jackal, Super Contra, Haunted Castle, etc..), it's very similar to the '007593' so it took few time to do it.The two wires you can see are to fix a mistake made by me during design (I swapped two signals).
Here's testing on a Jackal PCB:

 

Attachments

  • DSCN4706 - Copia.JPG
    DSCN4706 - Copia.JPG
    426.7 KB · Views: 436
  • 007327.jpg
    007327.jpg
    511.2 KB · Views: 440
Last edited:
I'm an long time retro collector, but I just now joined the "Arcade" club. I bough myself a HAUNTED CASTLE Arcade PCB and it should be working fine and is in pretty good condition (Haven't got it yet, just won it yesterday on Ebay). I have used to re-cap my old consoles, especially when there are 80's or 90's SMD caps on them. So I have a few questions about this Konami 007327 custom board which I could not found much info about.

1) Are those 5 "bumps" on the epoxy (or what ever that black stuff is) those nasty 80's surface mount capacitors with leaking acid?
2) Have any of you guys tried to peel off that black epoxy to change them if that is the case? Did you succeed? And if so, what did you use to get it off?

I think I re-cap those normal caps but if the pcb works just fine, is the 007327 something I need to worry about or would you guys leave it as is? Can I get this great re-production custom chip later too? lets say if in a year or two there is some problems with my game and I then notice that my Konami chip is leaking/dying, or is this just a one patch you did these?

Sorry for the newb questions, I just want to make sure, that I do everything to preserve my new Castlevania Arcade board in good shape!
 

Attachments

  • konami7327.jpg
    konami7327.jpg
    322.8 KB · Views: 408
1) Are those 5 "bumps" on the epoxy (or what ever that black stuff is) those nasty 80's surface mount capacitors with leaking acid?
The bumps are not surface monted capacitors but some kind of sealing wax used to cover the bare ICs die.There are no capacitors on it but only printed film resistors and some transitors

I think I re-cap those normal caps but if the pcb works just fine, is the 007327 something I need to worry about or would you guys leave it as is? Can I get this great re-production custom chip later too? lets say if in a year or two there is some problems with my game and I then notice that my Konami chip is leaking/dying, or is this just a one patch you did these?
You can get my '007327' reproduction at any moment, I have many boards available and can produce them if they I'll ever run out.The chip itself is not really reliable like every similar ceramic custom.It can break due to its fragile nature or can go bad (especially the RAMs mounted on underneath)
 
Last edited:
Thank you so much! I guess I'll go with the original then as long as it lasts and then give you a call! :)
 
Nobody born with the skills, you can have talent but it's nothing without assiduous dedication.
Anyway, I successfully reproduced also the Konami '007327' (used on many PCBs like Jackal, Super Contra, Haunted Castle, etc..), it's very similar to the '007593' so it took few time to do it.The two wires you can see are to fix a mistake made by me during design (I swapped two signals).
Here's testing on a Jackal PCB:

I need one of this. PM Sent.
 
I know you can't really diagnose a PCB just by asking a question, but I have a US Life Force PCB with faulty colors. everything works fine in the game except the colors are off and have a brown shade to them making the pinks a red color, green more of a brown and blue a greyish color. I unfortunately don't have another Konami board with the same chip on it to swap hardware around.
just from my research looking through past threads, it seems this would be the most likely component that would cause this problem, but just wondering if it might be a safe bet to go ahead and swap it with the custom chip? @caius
Thanks in advance for any support!
 
Back
Top