Konami Windy II - good to great - a refurb

I got all the bits required to make some harnesses that were not with my cabinet. A couple I’m not sure what they’re for but wanted to make them anyway to complete the refurb.

One is 12v connector for the power supply - not sure where it goes and didn’t terminate it. One is a 3.3v and 5v DC JVS connector for other hardware I don’t have, one is a multiple 3.3v out connector which I don’t know what it’s for, and one is a kick harness from my Mistercade (CPS1 style) to the AMP UP extra buttons connector in the control panel.

It was fun to recycle quite a few wires from my stash to get the correct colours as per the Windy II and CPS 1 schema.

Two of the buttons ended up being reversed between P1 and P2 so I just swapped button wires around. Not sure if I made a mistake with the pinout or whether the buttons were incorrectly wired.

I also finished off each harness a bit differently - why not. One had clear heat shrink evenly spaced out, one had wax string lacing, one had cable ties and one had a braided sleeve and some wax string.

I had to source quite a few parts from Mouser and Digikey in the US but glad they’re available at least.


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I went on to do a thorough scrubbing of all the wires, connectors and boards - including the chassis. I blew them off with a cordless Ryobi air blower (not nearly as good as compressed air) and left them in the hot sun for a few hours. This machine has so many boards in it – there are still a few not shown, including the JVS adapter and the IO board.
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wow better than new. krud kutter and simple green and water? I am about to clean a chassis and i usually only hose down the tube and not the pcbs cuz I was always worried I would mess up the PCB.
 
wow better than new. krud kutter and simple green and water? I am about to clean a chassis and i usually only hose down the tube and not the pcbs cuz I was always worried I would mess up the PCB.
Thanks, it’s pretty flash as they say. I’m just a noob at this and might come unstuck one day washing these parts but so far, so good. It’s usually weeks from when I wash them to when I turn them on, so I’m happy they’re well and truly dry. I read something the other day about regular tap water leaving a mineral residue that will one-day eat through the traces on the PCBs and other conductive parts, but I’m confident that a good dry off with the air gun and heat, and the protection from the solder mask and perhaps conformal coating will protect them well enough. I wouldn’t go hard on anything really old and fragile though.
 
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