What's new
@Lions3

I apologize for the trouble and confusion, but could you post a pic here of the two side options, and what remote pcb setup is needed for each?

I got my case from you, but had not gotten a remote pcb setup yet (next on the list).

I really dig the side mount for the larger remote pcb I saw on your website, and when I opened the kit, it looks like that's what I have in my kit I got a few days ago.

If I get that setup, with the IDC cable and under-board from Mitsu, do I need to do anything else at all?

I just want to make sure before I make a mistake, and need replacement plates.

Thanks!
I’ll take photos and explain the different options for the ribbon cables and the dip switch extender boards either later tonight or tomorrow.

I also failed to explain the mini dip switch people are added next to the stereo plugs on the JAMMA edge pcb. Which will work. As I make a cutout in the plastic side support. You just won’t be able to use the blue plate that I made to cover the JAMMA side of the case. Which is a visual change but won’t affect the overall case.

But for now, if you buy a case and already have the larger IDC ribbon cable let me know in your order comments. Plus if your dip switch pcb has a face mounted ribbon cable let me also know. As I’ve just finished creating an alternative side panel. As for the baseplate, I’m adding a cutout to allow for the extra height needed by the IDC ribbon cable connector.
 
I’ll take photos and explain the different options for the ribbon cables and the dip switch extender boards either later tonight or tomorrow.

I also failed to explain the mini dip switch people are added next to the stereo plugs on the JAMMA edge pcb. Which will work. As I make a cutout in the plastic side support. You just won’t be able to use the blue plate that I made to cover the JAMMA side of the case. Which is a visual change but won’t affect the overall case.

But for now, if you buy a case and already have the larger IDC ribbon cable let me know in your order comments. Plus if your dip switch pcb has a face mounted ribbon cable let me also know. As I’ve just finished creating an alternative side panel. As for the baseplate, I’m adding a cutout to allow for the extra height needed by the IDC ribbon cable connector.

I have the case already, and it's beautiful...thank you.

I got with Mitsurugi and confirmed I'm going to get the pcb that fits your case, with the IDC connector on the bottom-rear of the pcb, leading to the IDC connector on the bottom of the cps1 "a" board.

If that means I need a different base plate, let me know and I will reach out to you however you deem easiest to arrange, and cover what's needed to obtain it.
 
I got the case yesterday.

It's nice. Pretty much what I expected.

I couldn't tell from the images that the side pieces only come down to the height of the multi (B board). This is not a big deal but I wanted to mention it, in case anyone cared.

Build quality is what I've always known from @Lions3; very good.

Assembly took me longer than I thought it would, but I was not in any hurry. I was being careful not to get fingerprints all over it. I spent about 1.5 hours on it but I'm sure others will be much faster.

You need to have patience to get the covering out of all the the loops on the tiny letters, but just be resigned to spending some time and it's nothing to worry about.

I did not put in the remote DIP PCB. I prefer to have my dips outside the case and, where I have it setup, I couldn't access the left side anyway.

The only part I had a little trouble with was the 4 player adapter. The pins on the back were very long bumped into the front enclosure piece. This caused the adapter to have to either sit at a slight angle or to not be pushed in all the way. I cut them down a little and it fit very nicely. I don't consider this anyone's fault or a flaw; that's just how things are, sometimes.

This is my 3rd CPS enclosure from @Lions3 and this one is even better than the others.

I recommend it.
 
The case is a work of art. An extremely fair price, in my opinion, for a very rigid and professional product.
 
Use a popsicle stick to get the covering off small etchings.

I am very happy with mine.
 

Attachments

  • 20221123_211909.jpg
    20221123_211909.jpg
    234.2 KB · Views: 81
  • 20221123_200137.jpg
    20221123_200137.jpg
    315.3 KB · Views: 83
Yes, I used a small plastic wedge scraper tool thing, don’t be afraid to “rub” the small letters a bit to get the covering off.
 
Yes, I used a small plastic wedge scraper tool thing, don’t be afraid to “rub” the small letters a bit to get the covering off.
You don't end up scratching the Plexi when you use a scraper on it?

Do you lubricate the surface beforehand?

I use an exacto knife or razor and very careful remove each piece of paper. It's time consuming but not really difficult.

How wide is the scraper, in comparison to the block of text? I'm guessing it's as wide or wider?

I'm trying to understand the technique. If you don't damage the Plexi, I'd be interested in using it next time.
 
I did not notice any scratching, and I did not lubricate. Using the small plastic tool which was maybe a little more than a centimeter wide, I just kind of rubbed the letters and the brown paper falls off. It still took awhile, I can’t imagine how long the exact knife method took.

@Lions3 is this what you had in mind for my set up? Cable runs under bottom plate to the back, then I ran it above the bottom plate back through. Cable sits higher than the case feet so it’s good to go.
 

Attachments

  • 7E6F3373-F802-4068-9B97-796AEC1BA959.jpeg
    7E6F3373-F802-4068-9B97-796AEC1BA959.jpeg
    60.9 KB · Views: 79
  • FAD3DF5B-F4E0-4953-B382-E2EC0A6B96AC.jpeg
    FAD3DF5B-F4E0-4953-B382-E2EC0A6B96AC.jpeg
    76.9 KB · Views: 79
  • 32C542ED-18E1-4146-8428-D131BE604892.jpeg
    32C542ED-18E1-4146-8428-D131BE604892.jpeg
    80.6 KB · Views: 78
I did not notice any scratching, and I did not lubricate. Using the small plastic tool which was maybe a little more than a centimeter wide, I just kind of rubbed the letters and the brown paper falls off. It still took awhile, I can’t imagine how long the exact knife method took.
Thanks.

With the exacto knife, I used a magnifying glass. It makes things go pretty smoothly. I didn't time it, but it wasn't too bad; just need the right frame of mind.

I would certainly prefer not to sit there picking out each letter with a loop. Next time, I'll try your method.
 
Back
Top