Hey now. If the price is good for the seller, it's the right price. If it's a bad price, then it won't sell.
- Thread starter Crumptinite
- Start date
Want To Buy
J
jassin000
OG point still stands, you don't pay top dollar for holed up trash.
Let me give @Crumptinite and @Wraith some actual advice though, and I'm sure @twistedsymphony would agree here:
"If the monitor is good, and the speakers are good, the rest of the cab is (usually) easy to replace."
Make sure when you test that cab, you test resolutions that you will commonly use (15khz and 31khz), and leave the monitor on for 45 minutes to see if the flyback acts up, its an MS2931 chassis after all. These were wired for Model 3s, so they include the Model 3 harness, and not the 001 Jamma loom. So be prepared to test using VGA. Naomi is a great system for testing because of the gray startup screen. It can really point out the burn-in.
Most of these will have some burn-in towards the bottom from the credits, and possibly a line up top from the stage select screen. Make sure you gauge how noticeable it is when checking it in both 15khz and 31khz. I've found people hide burn-in in 15khz, when 31khz points it out like a sore thumb. Keep that in mind because it's a stronger argument to come down in price.
Obviously you'd want to make sure you control panel isn't cracked and the marquee is ok blah blah.
There is some extra wiring for the Bass Fishing controls, but other than that its 1:1 a Blast City.
I personally wouldn't sweat the knee buster unless you're applying for the Blast City fashion show. Again, you can easily paint some flat top bolts white and you'd be groovy. It's always nice when 2p bashes his knee when he loses.
"If the monitor is good, and the speakers are good, the rest of the cab is (usually) easy to replace."
Make sure when you test that cab, you test resolutions that you will commonly use (15khz and 31khz), and leave the monitor on for 45 minutes to see if the flyback acts up, its an MS2931 chassis after all. These were wired for Model 3s, so they include the Model 3 harness, and not the 001 Jamma loom. So be prepared to test using VGA. Naomi is a great system for testing because of the gray startup screen. It can really point out the burn-in.
Most of these will have some burn-in towards the bottom from the credits, and possibly a line up top from the stage select screen. Make sure you gauge how noticeable it is when checking it in both 15khz and 31khz. I've found people hide burn-in in 15khz, when 31khz points it out like a sore thumb. Keep that in mind because it's a stronger argument to come down in price.
Obviously you'd want to make sure you control panel isn't cracked and the marquee is ok blah blah.
There is some extra wiring for the Bass Fishing controls, but other than that its 1:1 a Blast City.
I personally wouldn't sweat the knee buster unless you're applying for the Blast City fashion show. Again, you can easily paint some flat top bolts white and you'd be groovy. It's always nice when 2p bashes his knee when he loses.
@Paik4Life - If you need some help, I've converted these guys before. Shoot me a PM. We'll get you up and running. 
I don't buy cabs with holes in them. the proper way to fix it is to remove the paint, weld in a slug, grind it smooth and then repaint. and unless I'm getting a cab at a price where that amount of work is worth the effort I'm not buying it.
I have nothing against people who want to just buy a cab to play games and all they care about is that they can play their games, a hole in the cab is irrelevant to that person, but that person isn't me.
I buy trashy cabs all the time, with the exception of my Net City, all of the cabs I own were non-working or significantly damaged in some way. and I restored them. The difference is I was paying 1/2 the price or less compared to what a mint fully restored version of that cab would go for.
People are "legally" fine with pricing their cabs however they want. but when someone lists a trashy cab at the price of a fully restored cab without explaining the difference I find it disingenuous and morally bankrupt. The problem is that noobs who don't know better assume that because the price is similar to nicer cabs they're getting a nicer product and they don't have the knowledge to know the difference.
That blast listing doesn't make any mention that it was Bass Fishing cab, and that's an important distinction. We also only have the seller's guess that the chassis needs a rebuild and that's the only issue with the monitor. For something valued that much why doesn't he send it out for service himself and then sell the fully working cab appropriately? surely a working monitor will improve the value of the cab more than the cost of getting the chassis rebuilt.
For my money I wouldn't spend more than $400 or so on that cab. maybe $500-$550 if I saw it in person and it was in exceptionally good shape despite the monitor issues. buying a cab with a non-working monitor is a HUGE gamble IMO, and the amount of work to properly remove Bass Fishing holes devalues it a lot from an other wise working $1000 cab from Japan.
I have nothing against people who want to just buy a cab to play games and all they care about is that they can play their games, a hole in the cab is irrelevant to that person, but that person isn't me.
I buy trashy cabs all the time, with the exception of my Net City, all of the cabs I own were non-working or significantly damaged in some way. and I restored them. The difference is I was paying 1/2 the price or less compared to what a mint fully restored version of that cab would go for.
People are "legally" fine with pricing their cabs however they want. but when someone lists a trashy cab at the price of a fully restored cab without explaining the difference I find it disingenuous and morally bankrupt. The problem is that noobs who don't know better assume that because the price is similar to nicer cabs they're getting a nicer product and they don't have the knowledge to know the difference.
That blast listing doesn't make any mention that it was Bass Fishing cab, and that's an important distinction. We also only have the seller's guess that the chassis needs a rebuild and that's the only issue with the monitor. For something valued that much why doesn't he send it out for service himself and then sell the fully working cab appropriately? surely a working monitor will improve the value of the cab more than the cost of getting the chassis rebuilt.
For my money I wouldn't spend more than $400 or so on that cab. maybe $500-$550 if I saw it in person and it was in exceptionally good shape despite the monitor issues. buying a cab with a non-working monitor is a HUGE gamble IMO, and the amount of work to properly remove Bass Fishing holes devalues it a lot from an other wise working $1000 cab from Japan.
Thanks! @'Metal Slug' apparently lives pretty close to me and offered to help as well. I need to get the cabs to my house in the next couple of weeks and actually check on all the parts before I even bother asking folks for help. I am not shy about asking for help though!@Paik4Life - If you need some help, I've converted these guys before. Shoot me a PM. We'll get you up and running.
~Paik
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Oh, don't get me wrong, that listing was hot garbage. I wouldn't pay $1500 for a Blast, let alone give that asshole my money!
While I like (and prefer) your solution for the holes. I'm letting people know there's no shame on fixing that cab with basic shit out of Home Depot. (if it's even an issue)
I think we both agree that initially you're better off buying a cab from Japan. However, in a recent cab sale, they did not come with the original Nanao monitor. So let's say you find a Bass City in the US with the original Nanao monitor. Do you think that levels the field a bit? Not being facetious, I'd like to know your honest opinion.
While I like (and prefer) your solution for the holes. I'm letting people know there's no shame on fixing that cab with basic shit out of Home Depot. (if it's even an issue)
I think we both agree that initially you're better off buying a cab from Japan. However, in a recent cab sale, they did not come with the original Nanao monitor. So let's say you find a Bass City in the US with the original Nanao monitor. Do you think that levels the field a bit? Not being facetious, I'd like to know your honest opinion.
See, but I am that guy. I bought my cabs to play games and collect them. I could care less what anyone thinks. It's a part of Sega's history so I leave it in.
IMO The only thing that makes Japanese cabs worth more is that they're generally taken better care of, unless there are specific regional differences in the equipment the original market is irrelevant. I also see any monitor replacement as a significant devalue of a cab. Really when it comes down to it you're buying a monitor in a fancy box. 50% of the cabs value and name sake is in the monitor IMO.
I get enjoyment from the restoration process, taking a piece of junk and honoring it by returning it to it's former glory, I enjoy playing the games too, but both aspects of arcade ownership are equally as important to me. I take pride in owning a shiny fully restored cab not because it's shiny and fully restored so much as because I'm the one who made it that way.
I feel you 100% on that. I once cursed the path when I when I was forced to walk it at first, but after getting a few cabs under my belt, I've come to really enjoy it.
I'll have to share my Egret II restore sometime from "Ye Olde Groupe Buy". It's a good story.
Are you spying on me?
I was tying my shoes next to my recently restored Aero and said "damn I did a good job". Put a smile on my face
I'm in the area as well and looking to find my first candy cab project! Recently found a clean wei-ya M3129D for free on FB marketplace and have since taken a deep dive into learning as much as I can from these forums and beyond to get it in working order. I may need some direction here shortly and would love to compensate a local member monetarily (in addition to free booze of course) for their time/expertise to possibly come over, check it out, and teach me a thing or two about troubleshooting it. I'm here to learn!Thanks! @'Metal Slug' apparently lives pretty close to me and offered to help as well. I need to get the cabs to my house in the next couple of weeks and actually check on all the parts before I even bother asking folks for help. I am not shy about asking for help though!@Paik4Life - If you need some help, I've converted these guys before. Shoot me a PM. We'll get you up and running.
~Paik
I'm actually not in Maryland, but I'm more than happy to provide remote support if needed.I'm in the area as well and looking to find my first candy cab project! Recently found a clean wei-ya M3129D for free on FB marketplace and have since taken a deep dive into learning as much as I can from these forums and beyond to get it in working order. I may need some direction here shortly and would love to compensate a local member monetarily (in addition to free booze of course) for their time/expertise to possibly come over, check it out, and teach me a thing or two about troubleshooting it. I'm here to learn!Thanks! @'Metal Slug' apparently lives pretty close to me and offered to help as well. I need to get the cabs to my house in the next couple of weeks and actually check on all the parts before I even bother asking folks for help. I am not shy about asking for help though!~Paik@Paik4Life - If you need some help, I've converted these guys before. Shoot me a PM. We'll get you up and running.
Ping me if you have any questions.
