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Messed up graphics

quadratic

quadratic

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Hi,

I installed my CPS2 multi kit in a suicided jap Street Fighter Zero B-board (revision 7).

The games load mostly fine (I sometimes get a solid white or orange screen with some garbage tiles), but when they do the graphics are all messed up. Sound and control work fine, it's really just the graphics, have a look at the picture attached (title screen of Progear no Arashi):

I did watch Mitsurugi-w's video and followed all the steps, I installed the PAL chip that I ordered with my kit, set up all the jumpers correctly (I double checked several times with a multi meter), checked that there was no broken pin, pressed firmly on the kit pcbs and verified that all pins were correctly inserted, the small link pcb's orientation is correct, the SD card is a Samsung EVO 64gb (I had no smaller one available, I'll buy one eventually) formatted with the sd formatter utility in windows, all roms are in a 'games' directory (I just extracted the avalaunch rom pack at the root of the card).

So... I don't know what to try next... :confused:

Any idea how to fix the issue? It's very frustrating, it's almost working but I can't use it!

Do you reckon it's a problem with the kit or with the B-board? Unfortunately I have no other B-board to try...

Any help is welcome, thanks!

Cheers
 

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Post a high res picture of your jumpers. Considering the amount of gfx issues you have there I'm guessing some of them are wrong. Even though you used a meter, let us see a picture.
 
looks like the issue i had

need to set the lock bit on the G PAL GAL chip when programming it or then teh PAL G chip is faulty or corrupt

SF Zero is a D PAL so have you actually changed that to a G PAL ????
 
You probably need to lift the pin on your PAL. I should edit my video with the PAL info. Some older pcbs work with the pin not lifted but they all work if you lift the pin. My factory converted pcb must have some other mod on it but I'm not sure what.
 
Thanks for the replies!

silverfox0786 said:
SF Zero is a D PAL so have you actually changed that to a G PAL ????
Click to expand...
I changed it to the PAL included with my multi CPS2 kit, so yes.


Mitsurugi-w said:
You probably need to lift the pin on your PAL. I should edit my video with the PAL info. Some older pcbs work with the pin not lifted but they all work if you lift the pin. My factory converted pcb must have some other mod on it but I'm not sure what.
Click to expand...
A video or even some pics to show exactly what to do and how to do it would definitely help!

Mitsurugi-w said:
Post a high res picture of your jumpers. Considering the amount of gfx issues you have there I'm guessing some of them are wrong. Even though you used a meter, let us see a picture.
Click to expand...
I'll do that as soon as possible.
 
When I copy paste the hi-res pics directly into the topic the forum doesn't let me submit my reply. What's the best way to post the images? Or should I send them to you by email?
 
quadratic said:
When I copy paste the hi-res pics directly into the topic the forum doesn't let me submit my reply. What's the best way to post the images? Or should I send them to you by email?
Click to expand...
I use an external site and link then here. Its a bit slow but i use tinypic.
 
http://tinypic.com/r/30ng7s6/8
http://tinypic.com/r/359esg7/8
http://tinypic.com/r/2q1dki8/8
http://tinypic.com/r/6yis5u/8

Look at the raw images to get the full resolution.

The jumpers on the last two images look quite ugly, I had to desolder the existing ones and with my crappy iron (and most probably crappy skills) and some desoldering braid I couldn't do a clean job.

But again, I tested several times each jumper with a multi meter, including on the other side of the pcb, and they were all correctly set.
 
Last edited:
quadratic said:
http://tinypic.com/r/30ng7s6/8
http://tinypic.com/r/359esg7/8
http://tinypic.com/r/2q1dki8/8
http://tinypic.com/r/6yis5u/8

Look at the raw images to get the full resolution.

The jumpers on the last two images look quite ugly, I had to desolder the existing ones and with my crappy iron (and most probably crappy skills) and some desoldering braid I couldn't do a clean job.

But again, I tested several times each jumper with a multi meter, including on the other side of the pcb, and they were all correctly set.
Click to expand...
Those solders look quite bad. Use flux before applying solder and put some more on it, like a bigger drop. It can be that your tester shows no contact because of the flux there.
 
Sorry for the extremely long delay in replying, real life caught up with me...

Anyway, I tried to fix the issue, but it didn't change anything. I probably just suck at soldering, or there is something else.

So instead of keeping my kit forever without being able to use it, I'd be keen to send it to either of you guys to make it work, and at the same time have the reset and audio crackling fix installed.

Can you PM me the details on how to do that?

Thanks!
 
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