Monitor not energizing on a 220v Blast City

[Jokerbomb]

Hello everyone!

I recently picked up a 220v Blast City and I was told that the monitor didn't work. I didn't know it was a 220v at the time, but when I got it home I picked up a step up converter in hopes that the issue was merely 120v trying to kick this thing over. Well, after getting the converter the monitor still won't energize.

As I started poking at it, I noticed that the transformer in the cab isn't hooked up:

I'm guessing this is likely part of my problem, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how it hooks up to anything. There are a couple of things with this cab that lead me to believe this thing was converted to be a MAME cab at some point (There's an IPAC hooked up to all the controls and they spliced a 3.5 mm jack into the audio lines on the JAMMA harness).. So I'm wondering if this is all part of the problem.. Any insight would be appreciated! Thank you!

 

[AeroCity20XX]

What monitor chassis is actually in it? Personally I'd just start by converting it back to its original wiring configuration, no reason to use a step up when everything in it originally should be using 100V originally. If it's a 220V setup I'd guess it was imported from China at some point.

 

[1credit]

Yeh I’m in uk




Looks like you have the correct iso transformer.

Should be 110v-120v
Normally ..

Shame that transformer don’t have any indication for the input required .but sure looks like the original Japanese one to me

 

[1credit]

This might help

 

[st3ncil]

I have a blast city which works perfectly fine with an transformer imported from china. I could give it a look if you need something specific.

 

[Jokerbomb]

What monitor chassis is actually in it? Personally I'd just start by converting it back to its original wiring configuration, no reason to use a step up when everything in it originally should be using 100V originally. If it's a 220V setup I'd guess it was imported from China at some point.

From my investigations, it looks like the original Nanao MS-2931 as it has VGA out. It's definitely a 220v setup as both the PS and the Sega labeling both show a 220v label:

@1credit - I realized now I should just free this the transformer from the cab itself and see but I think the wiring label is there. I think I'm just a little confused on where it gets connected to the chassis.. or if it gets connected to the chassis at all.

 

[Jokerbomb]

I have a blast city which works perfectly fine with an transformer imported from china. I could give it a look if you need something specific.

Would you be able to show me where the iso transformer is connected to? My schematic skills are rusty these days as I'm not entirely able to parse it out from the Blast City schematics I've seen.

 

[1credit]

From my investigations, it looks like the original Nanao MS-2931 as it has VGA out. It's definitely a 220v setup as both the PS and the Sega labeling both show a 220v label:

@1credit - I realized now I should just free this the transformer from the cab itself and see but I think the wiring label is there. I think I'm just a little confused on where it gets connected to the chassis.. or if it gets connected to the chassis at all.

Dam I would love to swap my 120v with that one !

Buy the way ..
The sound amp is built in with the psu .

That looks well clean also

 

[Big_P Big_p]

From my investigations, it looks like the original Nanao MS-2931 as it has VGA out. It's definitely a 220v setup as both the PS and the Sega labeling both show a 220v label:

@1credit - I realized now I should just free this the transformer from the cab itself and see but I think the wiring label is there. I think I'm just a little confused on where it gets connected to the chassis.. or if it gets connected to the chassis at all.

On an original 220v setup, power in is 220v it goes to a 220v to 110v isolation transformer (pictured earlier) and power to the PSU and chassis is 110v.

 

[Big_P Big_p]

So 220v in
220v to 110v via transformer in photo
Then...
110v to chassis and PSU
NEVER 220v to chassis or PSU

 

[Jokerbomb]

So 220v in
220v to 110v via transformer in photo
Then...
110v to chassis and PSU
NEVER 220v to chassis or PSU

Thank you! That's where I wasn't clear. Though now I'm still unsure why the monitor isn't energizing and I'm wondering if I've bitten off more than I can chew.

 

[1credit]

This is transformer what we have in uk.

The Power connector to chassis will be a small 2 pin connector with black & white wires .
Left back corner of the chassis looking from back

Through that stupid little hatch !

The sega Naomi does have that advantage that the monitor is fully open once the separate rear cover is removed . No such innovation for blast I’m afraid .. so it’s either through the hatch or remove the whole monitor .

Blast has another
Extra power switch
Round front of the cab . Under the control panel .

Lift up the control panel and look for another power switch .

Here

Also

Safty cut off push switch top left of service door !
( normally tapped up to keep it held in ! )

Cab won’t power up without that switch pushed in .



You might have this door switch?

 

[Big_P Big_p]

Those pink and blue wires should be your 110v

 

[st3ncil]

This is how mine looks like, to be fair I don’t really understand how it is hooked up

 

[nem]

I'm guessing this is likely part of my problem, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how it hooks up to anything.

It's not, since it isn't hooked up.

You really need to pull out the monitor chassis and check if the fuse is blown on the board. You can try to peer though the back hatch too, but personally I would just take out the whole monitor.

 

[trashedcabs]

Would you be able to show me where the iso transformer is connected to? My schematic skills are rusty these days as I'm not entirely able to parse it out from the Blast City schematics I've seen.

Disclaimer: I don't have a 220v blast city, just inferring from my machine, photos, and the wiring diagram.

In the blast city, power comes in from the wall and before touching anything in the power supply box, it goes out to the front door safety switch and the power switch in the control panel housing, then to the breakout board on the side of the coin box, then loops back to the power supply box which then gives power to the power supplies, monitor, marquee lamp etc. It looks like the stepdown transformer is supposed to hook up between the switches and the breakout board, stepping the input power down from 220v to 100v for the whole cabinet.

I would just remove it from the cabinet, bypass it and run the cabinet off your normal 110v wall power.

So if it's not hooked up, the question is then: did someone already bypass it, or is power completely unplugged from it? Does the marquee lamp turn on? Does the power supply turn on? If absolutely nothing works, you have a break in the AC power somewhere.

 

[Jokerbomb]

Thanks everyone! This gives me a lot of direction. @nem you're right and it's a step I've been avoiding because I haven't had a second set of hands to help me pull it. I did check the one fuse I can access on the chassis and it has continuity. But the next step I'm going to take is pulling it from the machine and digging in.

 

[nem]

There's a set of connectors behind the monitor bezel, on the frame of the monitor. The bezel just pops off by puĺling on the two black tabs behind the control panel.

One of the connectors has light blue and pink wires going to it. Check that you have 120V AC there.