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FS MS9 (NAC/Egret 2) + Toshiba PF (NNC) Yoke Flip Kits

For Sale
Well of course I knew you would know :D I assumed they would be but good to confirm. Cheers nem.
 
Count me interested then.
Also should work on a pfx.
 
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Cheers guys. If you can fill in your details [here] then that would be great, thanks.

I started looking into parts this morning and this has thrown a bit of a spanner in the works, and not just for making these.....

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Although the yoke parts are somewhat generic I'd prefer to source the JST ones if I can. I've contacted JST UK to see if they can help. If not I'll look at other options. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
No reply from JST UK. I've gone ahead and sourced compatible components from elsewhere.

I've updated the order form to add the Tosh PF/NNC option. PFX should also work too, let me know if anyone needs those and what cab you have a PFX in and we can go from there.

- @RepairGuy95 & @Lswanson1049 - don't worry about filling the form in again, I'll edit your responses. Could one or both of you let me know what the optimal cable length will be for a NNC?

For anyone else you may notice on the form I've increased the price by 10%. However if you are a forum user then add your forum username and I'll charge the 2024 price.

I've started initial work on the kits. Assuming the remaining components arrive on time I'm aiming to start shipping the first few kits in approx 3 weeks. I'll be in contact with those who have filled in the form in the next few days.

Thanks as always....
 
Assuming routing them up the metal leg on the nnc isn't a fantastic option due to length.
Let me see if there's a simple way to get it into the control panel like astro.
Might require drilling a small hole and grommet for the end user.
 
It's years since I've had a Naomi cabinet but assuming you would the control box in the CP, could you not route the wires though one of the holes in the panel between the speakers?

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Nothing needs to be routed through the leg or cutouts on the frame. Just follow the monitor connection under the monitor tray and you have a direct path into the CP area.
 
You can count me in for two kits if you are still planning to make these. One for Egret 2 and one for NNC 😉
 
Large Kro said:
You can count me in for two kits if you are still planning to make these. One for Egret 2 and one for NNC 😉
Click to expand...

Sure. I ordered enough parts to make a few extra so I can sort those, no problem. Please add your details to the order form [here]. Thanks :thumbup:

Update:

@RepairGuy95 kindly took measurements for me and it looks like the 'NAC' kit length is going to be suitable for the NNC too so that keeps things simple.

The kits are in production at the moment and I'm planning on completing and shipping all orders by the end of next week if not before.
 
Thank you for your reply Franco. We got in contact via the order form last week. Can't wait to install them. Thanks again for making those kits.
 
No problem!

I've got all of the kits made and I'm planning on testing and wrapping everything tonight and starting to get them shipped, you should all get tracking numbers over the next couple of days.

I have one extra NAC/NNC kit made and I have enough parts left over for a further four E2 or NAC/NNC kits. If you need one then let me know as I'm moving onto other things after these.

Thanks as always!
 
All orders shipped :thumbup:

Stock status:

-Additional NAC/NNC kit sold.
-I now have one E2 kit ready to go due to a non-payer.
-I have enough parts to make four more either E2 or NAC/NNC kits.
 
DM sent about a request for a custom cable for a Sony PVM 14M2MDE...
it's a followup to my thread here
Locutus73

Thread 'Switching H/V yoke polarity on Sony PVM for CW/CCW tate – safe approach?'

Hi everyone,

I’d like to ask for some advice regarding a setup I’m working on with Sony PVM monitors for tate gaming.

Until recently I was only using a Sony PVM-20M2MDE for everything (arcade + consoles), but I’ve just added a PVM-14M2MDE specifically for vertical (tate) games.

IMG_4175.jpeg

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My idea is to keep the 14” permanently rotated 90° CCW, since:

  • it looks much cleaner in my setup (only top/right side visible)
  • it fits better aesthetically in my room
  • when rotated CW I get a slight purity issue in one corner
However, I’ve run into...

TIA 🙏
 
How is that going to work? Even if the connectors were compatible, are you going to cut your case to feed the cables. Please don’t and just honestly pick up the monitor and manually rotate it!
 
djsheep said:
How is that going to work? Even if the connectors were compatible, are you going to cut your case to feed the cables. Please don’t and just honestly pick up the monitor and manually rotate it!
Click to expand...
I'm exploring the idea... currently I'm asking @FrancoB if he can possibly make a custom cable with the specific PVM connector, then I must double check, but I suspect that on the bottom of the case there should be some cuts where the cable could possibly be routed without cutting anything.
Anyway now I'm studying the feasibility...
Currently I'm manually rotating the screen, but honestly I don't love the purity issue when rotated CW (which most of the games require). When rotated CCW (mostly for CAVE shmups) it's perfect, and it better fits the room aesthetic. The PVM has an automatic and a manual degauss procedure, but the purity issue is still there... I'll check in the next days if it vanishes just sitting there. In the meantime I'm exploring the switch option.

​

 
I've honestly no idea if this would work on PVM. I know it works on arcade chassis as I ran kits on mine before making them for others, it had been done a long time before I did it too.

By all means open your PVM to take a look but I think it could be more trouble than it's worth.
 
FrancoB said:
I've honestly no idea if this would work on PVM. I know it works on arcade chassis as I ran kits on mine before making them for others, it had been done a long time before I did it too.

By all means open your PVM to take a look but I think it could be more trouble than it's worth.
Click to expand...
Basically the concept remains the same, but yeah, opening the chassis and taking a look at the yoke and the connectors is the only thing that makes sense right now.
I'll post some pics when I have the chance.

TIA
 
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