Is that something done today at all in cheap fightsticks? I can't imagine it'd be cheaper to do it this way than use your average 30 cent sanwa knock-off buttons and have those wired/connectored to a PCB.
- Thread starter natas
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Sorry this thing is far to expensive $39 it's worth $5-6 in addition to super expensive shipping from US to Europe it would be a waste of money.Quickest/Cheapest for testing PCBs:
buy one of those, a JAMMA harness then a cheap speaker and a cheap arcade PSU. plug it into a RGB capable monitor... it's nice and compact too
My solution is absolutely premium compared. I just rip out the USB chip of the joysticks and solder the cable directly to the switches, done and it's even cheaper.
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That is no problem just rip out USB-PCB and connect the cable. 5 min job.
I will post pictures from inside and conversion from USB to SNK.
It is, the joystick is 10€/$ or 12 incl. cable.
It has a nice case and connecting the cables will take me 15 min for both. That is about the some time I need just to wire up the Sanwas. Not including drilling getting the tools to drill the big holes, also the plywood or what ever I need to mount them.
astro_zombie138
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When I was experimenting with fightsticks I bought dirt cheap buttons and a stick and mounted them in a cardboard box. It gave me a taste and of what's up and convinced me to get something nice since now I knew I'd be into it. I see nothing wrong with messing around with the cheap controls for now. If you're buying anything on Ali, Timeharvest is who I would and have purchased from. I bought their consolized MVS that resembled an AES and it worked great. I also have one of their Scart/ Component switchers and it works well enough. Shit my first cabinet was a Gameroom Solutions with a 22in LCD that now sits in the garage because I moved on to real hardware solutions. Baby steps, I say enjoy buddy nevermind the haters and we'll see you soon with way better equipment.
The Supergun is from Timeharvest.
The setup is not intended for gaming, it is supposed to be a testbench setup.
If this setup is in any way not satisfying I can upgrade.
If I decide to go CRT I will likely get a Commodore 1084 or a tiny Sony PVM and will add the AV-Driver board.
If the Scaler works fine I will be happy with my Dell 4:3 monitor or the my Samsung 16:10 with 15kHz RGB/Component input.
Depending in the USB Circuit of the Joysticks I might be able to make them dual use USB and SNK, I will find out when I get them and if they are junk. I paid less then 16€ for one and even the worst one should be easily able to be better as the super expensive PCB (twice the price as I paid for 2x Joysticks) twistedsymphony recommended.
I have no use for the voltage display as the supergun already includes one for 5V and one for 12V.
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astro_zombie138
Champion
I didn't realize it was just a test bench, from your initial post it seemed like a first go at arcade gaming. If it's a test bench I would want something reliable so I don't add additional variables into the mix. You don't necessarily 'need' a mean well and a HAS for a decent setup. I use a supergun mini and a mean well but have also used a HAS, the one from Behar Bros, a basic happ switching power supply and some other off the shelf stuff. A switching power supply with 5v adjustment is a must for a test bench, I wouldn't rely on an atx for that. I thought you were just playing around and dipping your feet.
If I want to play that games it will in emulation with wireless controllers and I can see every real Arcade enthusiast look like this now: 
For me it's more interesting to analyze this things and find out how they work, do some mods and so on.
I have 2x programable DPS3012 and 1x programable DPS5020 powered from a 48V 40A Server PSU, YOYUE 768 Hot air/ regular soldering station, PeackTech 3440 multimeter, DSCope C20P 50MHz 2 Channel USB Scope, DSLogic Plus 16 Channel USB Logicanalyzer, MiniPro TL866CS and some other stuff.
What I don't have is much space.
So far I only ordered the stuff form first post, my only hopefully soon arriving arcade PCB is a Hammerin' Harry (M84 like?) Bootleg, all together cost me slightly over 200$/€.
That should be enough to find out if I like my new hobby and decide to invest more or if I sell everything again.
For me it's more interesting to analyze this things and find out how they work, do some mods and so on.
I have 2x programable DPS3012 and 1x programable DPS5020 powered from a 48V 40A Server PSU, YOYUE 768 Hot air/ regular soldering station, PeackTech 3440 multimeter, DSCope C20P 50MHz 2 Channel USB Scope, DSLogic Plus 16 Channel USB Logicanalyzer, MiniPro TL866CS and some other stuff.
What I don't have is much space.
So far I only ordered the stuff form first post, my only hopefully soon arriving arcade PCB is a Hammerin' Harry (M84 like?) Bootleg, all together cost me slightly over 200$/€.
That should be enough to find out if I like my new hobby and decide to invest more or if I sell everything again.
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astro_zombie138
Champion
I'm not arguing or anything but all that fancy stuff and you seem very dead set at not getting a switching power supply which takes up as much or less space than an atx psu and can be had for cheaper. Just a recommendation, you do you man. But out of everything, just like building a pc you never skimp with the psu.
I have 3 or 4 ATX PSUs to select from and they are from 200-400W so they should have up to 15A on the 5V rail I know how to crank the 5V up to 5.1V if needed.
Configuring my programable PSUs to deliver all 3 voltages including the -5V is no problem so I am 200% sure I get it running.
But yes, if I have more boards I will for sure also get some Mean Well PSU.
The https://www.beharbros.com/product-page/hayabusa looks quite interesting as it uses PS2 controller.
Configuring my programable PSUs to deliver all 3 voltages including the -5V is no problem so I am 200% sure I get it running.
But yes, if I have more boards I will for sure also get some Mean Well PSU.
The https://www.beharbros.com/product-page/hayabusa looks quite interesting as it uses PS2 controller.
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astro_zombie138
Champion
You don't need a mean well, just a switching power supply but I'm done. I honestly don't know how to take what your saying....but I wish you the best on your endevour.
astro_zombie138
Champion
I was lumping switching into the adjustable 5v rail. That was my bad for that, I should have clarified.
Arcade pcbs can be very finnicky. I pump 5v even to my m72 and the voltage will drop so I have to compensate and turn it up to 5.13 from the psu. It sounds like you're no stranger to all this though. I just like to keep it simple when I'm testing and troubleshooting. No extra variables.
Arcade pcbs can be very finnicky. I pump 5v even to my m72 and the voltage will drop so I have to compensate and turn it up to 5.13 from the psu. It sounds like you're no stranger to all this though. I just like to keep it simple when I'm testing and troubleshooting. No extra variables.
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Update:
The Joysticks arrived:
First impression very light 300g without cable and 360g with the long USB-cable.
The suction cups smell strongly.
Joystick feels okay not arcade like but good for the price of 15€.
Same for the buttons.
First test normal operation:
Device has 2 modes PS3/PC and XBOX you can select between by holding +/- pressed for 5 seconds.
with none of them I could detect the TB and home button they them to be Switch only.
One of the to Joysticks stopped being detected it seems I found some not PC compatible mode or firmware update mode so far I could not get it back working, wha is not a big problem as my plan was to remove the USB PCB.
now inside:
Joystick has microswitches but only the small type. The buttons are this 4-pin micro buttons with some silicon hat not the best but for some testing fine.
The PCB is nicely labeled the markings on the microcontroller are removed.
As all keys are pulled against GND when a button is pressed or the joystick is moved into a specific direction it should be no problem to attach SNK cable and USB cable of cause only one cable is allowed to be plugged in.
Likely I will remove the USB-PCB an the cable and solder the SNK-DB15-cable directly to the joystick and button-PCB.
I also will add some wight to give the joystick some mass.
The Joysticks arrived:
First impression very light 300g without cable and 360g with the long USB-cable.
The suction cups smell strongly.
Joystick feels okay not arcade like but good for the price of 15€.
Same for the buttons.
First test normal operation:
Device has 2 modes PS3/PC and XBOX you can select between by holding +/- pressed for 5 seconds.
with none of them I could detect the TB and home button they them to be Switch only.
One of the to Joysticks stopped being detected it seems I found some not PC compatible mode or firmware update mode so far I could not get it back working, wha is not a big problem as my plan was to remove the USB PCB.
now inside:
Joystick has microswitches but only the small type. The buttons are this 4-pin micro buttons with some silicon hat not the best but for some testing fine.
The PCB is nicely labeled the markings on the microcontroller are removed.
As all keys are pulled against GND when a button is pressed or the joystick is moved into a specific direction it should be no problem to attach SNK cable and USB cable of cause only one cable is allowed to be plugged in.
Likely I will remove the USB-PCB an the cable and solder the SNK-DB15-cable directly to the joystick and button-PCB.
I also will add some wight to give the joystick some mass.
Yeah I mean, modding that to DB15 should be very easy but like... that stick does not look very pleasant 
If its just for test-bench use then I guess that wont matter, and the small size might actually be a plus though.
And I mean it has a fast car on it, so thats a plus.
edit:
Also not sure why, but this made me chuckle a little bit
If its just for test-bench use then I guess that wont matter, and the small size might actually be a plus though.
And I mean it has a fast car on it, so thats a plus.
edit:
Also not sure why, but this made me chuckle a little bit
Maybe because I am not a native speaker and relied on translate app as I did not know how that feet are called that stick to your table buy suction.Yeah I mean, modding that to DB15 should be very easy but like... that stick does not look very pleasant
If its just for test-bench use then I guess that wont matter, and the small size might actually be a plus though.
And I mean it has a fast car on it, so thats a plus.
edit:
Also not sure why, but this made me chuckle a little bit
It's a chemical smell.
This is what I am talking about:
If someone buys that stick be warned pressing all buttons same time will stop it from being detected as Gamepad/Joystick.
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No, your English was perfectly fine. It just sounded sortof funny to hear that about an arcade stick
With some luck in the next two days my supergun the cables and the HDMI adapter will arrive.
Then I can find out the exact 15Pin layout if the map 4 buttons + coin & start or 6 buttons or even 8 buttons and skipped the 5V.
Connecting the big 6 buttons is really easy, to use the top 4 buttons i need to unsolder der MCU.
Just a little Task with hot air gun, especially after I managed to find the secret kill the USB-PCB key-combo.
Then I can find out the exact 15Pin layout if the map 4 buttons + coin & start or 6 buttons or even 8 buttons and skipped the 5V.
Connecting the big 6 buttons is really easy, to use the top 4 buttons i need to unsolder der MCU.
Just a little Task with hot air gun, especially after I managed to find the secret kill the USB-PCB key-combo.
