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Nanao MS-2930 doesn't power on

VodkaGobalsky

VodkaGobalsky

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I recently just recapped my Nanao 2930 in my Blast City. I believe I plugged all the cables back correctly but it doesn't seem to be powering on at all. Before I go back in and checking all the soldering of the capacitors, is there anything else I should be checking to see why it's not powering on? I get no image whatsoever and no hum or buzz. Nothing from the monitor. I know the power supply is working as the game is working and I get audio.
 
Okay update, I went back and checked all my soldering and fixed some stuff and cleaned some of it up and plugged everything back in. It did turn on. I got a picture and I was ready to go and fix the convergence when it all of the sudden shut itself off again! It was on for about 5 minutes before shutting off again and doesn't turn back on anymore. The fact that it worked at all tells me that the PCB is okay but maybe it's a power issue and the monitor just stopped getting power.
 
Could I be that I need to reapply the gel to the anode? I don't know where I can get that gel.
 
It's unlike its gel to the anode.

These NaNao's are pretty fickle. I just Mail them to PNL, he figures it out and gets it back to me within a week for a pretty fair price.

But if you've done the normal checks, make sure that the monitor is receiving 120v AC at the connector to rule out a cab/power supply issue. If you confirmed there's AC voltage going to the monitor, then the issue is isolated to the chassis and that's when I'd tap out!
 
imfuraisoth said:
Could I be that I need to reapply the gel to the anode? I don't know where I can get that gel.
Click to expand...
I believe it’s dielectric grease under the anode cap and unlikely to be the cause of our power issue, as @Anselmo stated.

The grease is there to create a seal and prevent dust / contaminants from getting to the anode which can result in crackling and popping sounds.
 
I took a multimeter to the power cable coming in and I think it’s reading 0 for AC. There also seem to be no voltage readings on the board. So I think something is up with the power. The fact it turned on at all and was working for a little bit makes me think the monitor is okay.
 
Can't confirm if it is 100% your problem, but it's worth noting that the blast PSU and amp are also worth hitting with a cap-kit if you haven't already, as they most likely haven't ever been touched otherwise.
 
I actually just recapped those as well so next thing I’m going to do is check the work there as well.
 
if you are not getting AC to the monitor, triple check the blast city kill switch on the front door. Is your marquee lighting up?
 
Okay so I went back to check on all the capacitors. I’m able to bring the monitor back on but then it shuts off after about 5 minutes or so. Any ideas why?
 
is any component hot after 5 minutes when it shuts off? Also will it stay on longer if you turn the contrast way down?
 
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I'm not sure if anything is getting over heated. If that's the case, wouldn't I be able to turn it on again after letting it sit for a while? Only way I get it back on again is when I take it out and start switching out more capacitors. I've gone back and forth 3 times already. It would shut off, I'd go and replace a few capacitors and plug it back in again and it turns on and shuts off after 5 minutes.
 
Honestly i can’t see how replacing a few random caps would give you +5 more minutes. It probably has more to do with the total discharge of voltage from the board over time and unplugging/handling everything.
 
is not capacitor issue on chassis, and blast psu caps wont change for better either, a/c in is direct so long as that wire connected, runs independent. problem check

B+ 180v if cant reach 180 have to do resistor modification but is dangerous
Flyback end of life, reproductions are bad low quality
frequency chip stuck or program error, try loading vga or ega (or diff sync mode than normal
power without remote board

if stuff above is jibberish send to John, only he still fixes properly if bad or has hv shutdown. This chassis has 4 security checks and if 1 fails it shuts down.
 
Yep. Highly recommend John @ PNL Video. He has saved me many hours of troubleshooting and grief on these Nanao chassis
 
I don’t think it’s the fly back transformer. It was working fine before I recapped it.
 
I’ll give him a call on Monday. Looks like he’s in Cali which is convenient for me.
 
Last thing I might do before sending it off is check the B+ voltage. Does anyone know which pin to check on the 2930? Is it off of the rgb15 1K resistor?
 
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