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Srayer

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I have an Atari prototype cabinet that I picked up ages ago when I worked for Atari/Midway that I've set up as a universal cabinet. The monitor has been looking pretty dim lately, so I decided to recap the chassis. It was (mostly) straightforward, but there's very little information out there about this specific chassis, so I thought I'd make a post about it. The chassis is an NT-2515CM, which is very similar to a NT-2515C, but with a couple of differences.

TLDR:
- To recap this chassis, you're going to need:
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...nt-2515c-nt-25e-monitor-cap-kit-105c-nichicon
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co.../220uf-400v-nichicon-105c-b-filter-capacitor/
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...tors-10-pack/10uf-250v-105c-nichicon-10-pack/
- My board has a printing error on the parts side for C314. The negative terminal is marked on the wrong hole. The positive terminal on the solder side is correctly marked. Make sure to follow the existing capacitor's polarity when recapping.

TL:
First, a picture of the cab. As usual, I was too eager to get started and forgot to take a "before" picture. So no color bars. But, they were dim, and I could not get blue up the same level as red and green.
atari_cab.jpg
atari_cab_label.jpg


Before picture of the chassis:
chassis.jpeg


There is no cap kit for the NT-2515CM, but there is one for the NT-2515C. So I started from there, and found the following differences:
- NT-2515CM requires one additional 10uF 250V capacitor for the neck board
- NT-2515CM uses a 220uF 400V filter cap; the NT-2515C uses a 330uF 400V.

Alarmingly, I found that there's a printing error on the parts side for cap C314. On the parts side, one of the holes is marked negative, but on the solder side, the same hole is marked positive. The solder side marking was the correct one. FWIW, the NT-2515C manual shows the correct marking on the parts side.
parts.jpg
solder.jpg


Apart from that, it was smooth sailing. Here's the after pic:
chassis_after.jpg


The monitor looks great now; it's bright, vibrant, and balanced. Before the recap, blue 0-4 was pretty much black no matter what adjustments I made. I'm thrilled with how it looks now.
after_bars.jpg
after_xmvsf.jpg


Geometry is good but not amazing. The only adjustments are H/V Size and Pincushion, and the latter doesn't work very well. So it's not getting any better than this. But convergence is very good!
after_hatch.jpg


Overall, it was a fairly easy recap despite the lack of info on this chassis. Fortunately it's very close to the much better documented NT-2515C.
 
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