What's new
Yeah that's definitely the best solution, and what I did on my China U4, but figured the explanation of "just remove the transformer and connect the wires" would be easier for someone just getting into it. Crimp connections will have to be made regardless, and a butt splice is no less reliable than any other type of crimp connection.

EDIT: If you end up running new wires, make sure it's 18AWG or larger
 
Last edited:
Yeah that's definitely the best solution, and what I did on my China U4, but figured the explanation of "just remove the transformer and connect the wires" would be easier for someone just getting into it. Crimp connections will have to be made regardless, and a butt splice is no less reliable than any other type of crimp connection.

EDIT: If you end up running new wires, make sure it's 18AWG or larger
I will say when I was a newbie and got that quoted “advice”, it wasn’t helpful enough.
 
EDIT: I actually went looking for this because I was genuinely confused at how there's something somehow wrong with what I posted, other than not being "clean" and using PIDG butt splices (which when crimped well are used in way more mission critical applications than arcade cabs, originally designed by AMP for aircraft use). Your cab was a European Naomi Universal with a transformer from the factory, which branches off to other things and isn't just a simple case of 220V in, 100 out. This is a Yaton China cab originally designed for 100V with a spliced in step down to work on Chinese 220 power. These are somewhat different, and in the case of the China cab there is genuinely no problem to just splice out the stepdown just as it was spliced in.
 
Last edited:
I've seen them here but not something everyone has lying around. Dude said he has a generic crimp kit, so I figure use what's on hand as long as it's done right. Would be nice if those wagos were more widespread here, seems very convenient.
 
Yes the Wago’s are great pretty much used by all electricians, technicians etc although crimps are great too, what ever you have to hand will do.
 
Success! I ended up running two new 14 AWG wires after removing the transformer. She’s pretty.
 

Attachments

  • DC584B6E-6488-464A-BE9F-F1AE8A032D35.jpeg
    DC584B6E-6488-464A-BE9F-F1AE8A032D35.jpeg
    98.8 KB · Views: 119
  • 0E2FA29A-6371-4556-A869-BF554466F946.jpeg
    0E2FA29A-6371-4556-A869-BF554466F946.jpeg
    81.4 KB · Views: 117
Quick question, and I’m sure this information could be found on the interwebs, but as far as games/hardware go…the monitor in the cab is a Nanao MS-29A. My CPS1/CPS2 multis run fine on it as expected, but im also interested in dabbling in some CPS3,
ST-V, F3, and Atomiswave games/boards.

Should all of those work fine in regards to resolutions without adapters/downscalers? I know the Naomi 1/2 and later hardware/platforms require some extra things, but I’m pretty satisfied with my GDEMU Dreamcast for that stuff. Thanks!
 
Quick question, and I’m sure this information could be found on the interwebs, but as far as games/hardware go…the monitor in the cab is a Nanao MS-29A. My CPS1/CPS2 multis run fine on it as expected, but im also interested in dabbling in some CPS3,
ST-V, F3, and Atomiswave games/boards.

Should all of those work fine in regards to resolutions without adapters/downscalers? I know the Naomi 1/2 and later hardware/platforms require some extra things, but I’m pretty satisfied with my GDEMU Dreamcast for that stuff. Thanks!
All those are also standard res, so you're fine.

Naomi requires some extra stuff, but you can still run the games in standard res, so the monitor isn't a roadblock of any sort.
 
Back
Top