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New Owner of a Blast City with a fully working NAOMI system.

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Branaghs

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Hello everyone. My name is Bran, and I need a whole lot of help. I’m fairly tech-savvy, but I have no idea where to start to get the ball rolling on this project. I recently bought a Sega Blast City cabinet with a fully working NAOMI system and CvS2 as the game. I got it from a gentleman in my state who really took care of his equipment, and overall it was a great buy.

That being said, I want to make sure I get as much longevity out of this machine as possible. The NAOMI system is a bit loud—I'm pretty sure it's the GD-ROM drive—but is there any way to play CvS2 without using the disc drive? I’ve seen Retro Ralph’s video on “Play Your NAOMI Games From Your Cell Phone,” but a short six-minute video doesn’t seem like enough for a future-proof solution.

What I'm looking for is a tutorial or a kind soul who can point me in the right direction. Thanks everyone!
 
AXUN
also find out if the previous owner ever replaced the naomi supercap I've heard those can be trouble
 
YerpS3s said:
Get a sun PSU. Its gonna really help that Blast PSU
Click to expand...

They don't need a sun PSU, the stock blast PSU is perfectly fine for even a beefy Naomi 2 + GDROM setup. However two things I would suggest:

-Recap the stock PSU and clean/replace the exhaust fan
-Reflow the breakout board on the side of the coin bin. Every single blast I've worked on has broken solder joints on these PCBs, resulting in low current flow and needing to crank up the voltages. After you do this, readjust the voltage pots on the PSU.

Also, the netdimm is a great solution. The wipi image is very intuitive and far more future proof than a GDROM, which is almost certainly guaranteed to die with enough read cycles.
 
Your suggestion is countering numerous recommendations of NEVER using the internal PSU to power a netdimm setup. But by all means.
 
YerpS3s said:
Your suggestion is countering numerous recommendations of NEVER using the internal PSU to power a netdimm setup. But by all means.
Click to expand...

I don't care what "numerous recommendations" say. The crowd is often completely misinformed and simply repeat superstition. Has anyone measured actual current draw used by these systems anyway?

There are multiple "Sun PSUs" and they are rated for either 12A on 3.3v and 10A on 5V, or 12A on 3.3v and 15A on 5V. Both of which supply enough current to run these systems.

The blast city PSU is rated for 12A on both 3.3v and 5v. This is also enough. It was ultimately spec'd to run a Model 3, which is even hungrier.
 
trashedcabs said:
I don't care what "numerous recommendations" say. The crowd is often completely misinformed and simply repeat superstition. Has anyone measured actual current draw used by these systems anyway?

There are multiple "Sun PSUs" and they are rated for either 12A on 3.3v and 10A on 5V, or 12A on 3.3v and 15A on 5V. Both of which supply enough current to run these systems.

The blast city PSU is rated for 12A on both 3.3v and 5v. This is also enough. It was ultimately spec'd to run a Model 3, which is even hungrier.
Click to expand...

I understand it now, All of us are wrong. I appreciate you educating the entire forum today!
 
trashedcabs said:
Also, the netdimm is a great solution. The wipi image is very intuitive and far more future proof than a GDROM, which is almost certainly guaranteed to die with enough read cycles.
Click to expand...
Ok, so this seems to be route to go then. Do you know of any good tutorials or videos on this matter?
 
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