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@Darksoft

Would creating a new and custom PCB, specifically designed to cater to the needs of the multi and nothing else, be a feasible idea? Have them machine soldered and bulk produced from a PCB fabricator.
 
But then again, thinking about it some more, if the multi can already accommodate a B21 why not just have them included by default pre installed into the multi and omit the need for a separate C board entirely?
 
But then again, thinking about it some more, if the multi can already accommodate a B21 why not just have them included by default pre installed into the multi and omit the need for a separate C board entirely?
I imagine there are not enough NOS B21 chips available for purchase. Even if there were, that would unnecessarily drive up the price of the kit.
 
Yeah - that sounds pretty cost prohibitive, if feasible. There has been a lot of debate about the true number of B-21 chips found in the wild. While some claim it was in the tens of thousands, I've seen others with evidence that it was in the hundreds. Even at that rate, there's no telling how many Darksoft bought.
 
IF you are transplanting a B21 chip you are going to need experience with hot air rework and SMD based soldering (yea that shit is HARD/deal-breaker for 90% I'd say).
Doctors what is my prognosis?

Paging dr @jassin000 and other learned doctors

Tell it like it is
 

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Give that board a good clean before you think about trying to remove the C custom or anything else. Dust getting in the solder or flux is going to cause you all kinds of problems.
 
Give that board a good clean before you think about trying to remove the C custom or anything else. Dust getting in the solder or flux is going to cause you all kinds of problems.
Compressed air good or certain alcohol with q tips or none of the above?

Yeah definitely needs a clean. Plays well though, got it in advance of the Multi. Can you tell if it has that battery b-21?
 
Give that board a good clean before you think about trying to remove the C custom or anything else. Dust getting in the solder or flux is going to cause you all kinds of problems.
Compressed air good or certain alcohol with q tips or none of the above?
Yeah definitely needs a clean. Plays well though, got it in advance of the Multi. Can you tell if it has that battery b-21?
SF2CE is the batteryless version, so needs some rework
 
Give that board a good clean before you think about trying to remove the C custom or anything else. Dust getting in the solder or flux is going to cause you all kinds of problems.
Compressed air good or certain alcohol with q tips or none of the above?Yeah definitely needs a clean. Plays well though, got it in advance of the Multi. Can you tell if it has that battery b-21?
SF2CE is the batteryless version, so needs some rework
Arg. Ty. Outsource things I need soldering anyway.

Any else that was mentioned that it was good or bad for? Thanks for the info PP
 
@Darksoft well, I for one vote to wait so that [ if you are unlucky enough to have a battery-less C board] transferring the B-21 chip isn't necessary. It is delicate work on 2 expensive pieces of hardware that I prefer to avoid if possible. If it's unavoidable then hey, that's the nature of the hobby and it's the risk you take but I feel It would benefit both parties the most in the long run to just wait [until you can finish whatever alternative you are reconsidering].

Unless I have this all wrong and the alternative is to only use a battery powered c-board then i guess it is what it is and just ignore me.
 
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Exactly that. As I wrote either you transplant any B-21 to the multi, which right now is something I'm reconsidering...or use any C board that has a B-21 with battery.

If you have a C Board with a B-21 but without battery, then you need to make some changes on the pin 42 and 43 IIRC, so it will work as the ones with battery.
Sorry @Frank_fjs , responding to this. bad etiquette on my part.
 
@Darksoft well, I for one vote to wait so that [ if you are unlucky enough to have a battery-less C board] transferring the B-21 chip isn't necessary. It is delicate work on 2 expensive pieces of hardware that I prefer to avoid if possible. If it's unavoidable then hey, that's the nature of the hobby and it's the risk you take but I feel It would benefit both parties the most in the long run to just wait [until you can finish whatever alternative you are reconsidering].

Unless I have this all wrong and the alternative is to only use a battery powered c-board then i guess it is what it is and just ignore me.
I think that we'll give up on the transplanting option and although it's implemented we may remove it in the final run. Too much trouble.

You will need just a battery powered C-Board or one that's converted. In any case the kit is ready so that we can also allow for any other C board and have the addresses translated on the go....We're listening to you guys.
 
'Best" option IMO would be a universel C board (repro?) to go alongside with the kit as an option if you don't have a battery B-21 board.
I for one have about 6-7 CPS1 boards and NONE are on the C board with battery.

Not sure how big your stash of B-21's is to make something like this feasible?
But otherwise I foresee a lot of killed or scavenged OEM games by people who don't have the know-how to do so.
 
Once you guys figure all of this out, that's what I will do.

CPSI Multi Here I Come!

:D

Of course, I have the SFII CE board, but oh well...

.
 
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think that we'll give up on the transplanting option and although it's implemented we may remove it in the final run. Too much trouble.
if it's implemented you might as well leave it implemented, it's a nice option for those that have the skills and access to a donor chip, Just leave it as an undocumented/unpromoted feature.
 
The Q-sound portion is contained on the C-board (I guess they refer to it as C+D)
Q-Sound board is the "D-Board", it's an additional PCB sandwiched between the A and B boards (so the board stack goes from bottom to top: A - D - B -C)

The boards are named after the model numbers silk screened on them.

For instance on a Punisher PCB stack (Which is a CPS1.5/Q-Sound Game)
A-Board: 89626A-4
D-Board: 92636D-3
B-Board: 91635B-2
C-Board: 92641C-1

technically the filer board on a Q-Sound game is the "E" board because it has the number: 92636E-2
 
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