What's new
By:
Filters

Problem with CPS2 Multi-kit Red or Red/Brown screen on boot

Venger

Venger

Beginner
Joined
Aug 6, 2016
Messages
22
Reaction score
8
Location
Virginia, USA
I feel pretty stupid. :huh: So this was working perfectly when I wanted to change the games package that was on the SD card - no idea why in hindsight, probably should of left well enough alone. Anyway, I reformatted the card, copied the Games folder over from the rollup and put it back together.

It worked but had some garbled sprites, so I reseated it a few times and finally got it looking correct, so I locked the A + B boards. I loaded 5 or 6 titles and played a good while without issue. Then I turned the cab off and came back a couple hours later and it just boots to either a brown/reddish hue screen or a more full red screen.

The LCD still switches games and shows the titles fine and I tried my spare SD which worked previously, but still just a solid red screen and no sound every time. Everything looks to be seated and I don't see any visible damage, anyone know what did I do and how can I fix it?
 
Sounds like a classic "short the EXC5 pins" situation.
 
How is your interconnect PCB (small board that connects the main kit board to the smaller kit board)?
Can you use a multimeter to verify conductivity from the back side of the kit pins to the back side of the B-board pins?

It really sounds like it's a seating issue to me.
Then again I never had the "short exc5" problem, so maybe start with that as Mits suggested above...
When I first installed the kit I did have to short CC1 (to suicide it) after cutting the battery free.
 
I would recommend to anyone having the issue of a solid screen to always first short that capacitor next to where the battery used to be. I have had one or two issue and that cleared it. Just double check nothing looks disconnected or not pushed together. Sometimes those ribbon cable connectors come loose.

I was getting a solid blueish green screen after playing on cps2multi. Doubled checked my connections and did a full reformat of the SD card. Idk it just works grest now.

However, I have only had luck with the smaller game package. I still have to retest using the large Roms pack. I just don't want to miss with something that been working
 
Well - you guys are each right and I am back up and running! Shorting the EXC5 pins fixed it booting to the solid color screens and it got me back to loading the games, but again had some graphical fragmentation. I pulled it apart and looking at the boards, somehow the smaller board was not completely seated on one side - I guess I pressed REALLY gentle originally. :D I firmly seated all of it and put it back together and it is crystal clear and working great. Thanks to you all!
 
if you're feeling daring and are comfortable with it, you can remove exc1 and exc5 to prevent this from happening.

I wouldn't recommend it unless you're comfortable soldering them back in if you have any issues.
 
Hmm, I'm not opposed to that. How common is needing to short those out and was it due to me pulling the SD card? If it is a frequent thing then I definitely will consider this - do you recommend to remove both initially or just start with EXC5?
 
I have but never more than once on the same pcb. But I know it can need to be done again.
 
Venger said:
Hmm, I'm not opposed to that. How common is needing to short those out and was it due to me pulling the SD card? If it is a frequent thing then I definitely will consider this - do you recommend to remove both initially or just start with EXC5?
Click to expand...
Which B board version you have? If you have a early board without CN9 it's supposed to have a 4700 ohms resistor between A32 and C32 pins of the CN2 connector. The resistor is there to prevent erroneous/spurious programming of the security chip, which in turn would cause a non programmed board to become programmed, making you need to short EX5 to delete the program in it.

That is not supposed to happen, ever. So considering how many people had that problem recently, someone might be removing the resistors.
 
I have the dreaded red screen. Here are the board stats:
  1. Revision 3
  2. F-PAL w/pin 7 connected to J17
  3. Auto reset wire installed
  4. Card created in Windows
I had another B-board donor that I started with that had audio issues. Put that aside and picked up another dead board for this purpose. All I get is a red screen. I can hear the board playing in the background without issue. Loading credits and starting a game, i can pull off moves in HSF2A without issue. Audio seems correct too. I used a jumper wire to short the 3 pins to each other at EXC5. Still get the red screen. Aside from removing cap, anything else I should do? Did I short EXC5 correctly?
 
If you hear game sounds then the game is running and I don't think it is a kit issue.
 
True. But that doesn't help me. Anything else I should look out for? All the cards are firmly pressed in. Should I pull the caps? Or look for another donor board? BTW, both donor boards were rev 3's.
 
acblunden2 said:
Or look for another donor board? BTW, both donor boards were rev 3's.
Click to expand...
I just feel like the Rev 7's are the most reliable donors... If you can, I'd swap out for one.
Use a "dead" MvC, its G-PAL and factory correct jumper config. ;)
 
*sigh*.....I am starting to get that feeling too. Two rev 3 boards with one issue or the other.
 
MvC's prequel MvSF turned out to be a rev 7 board with the correct jumpers and a G-Pal. Luckily someone here in town had a "dead" one that I was able to pick up today for a decent price. Only soldering needed was for the reset wire.

I am up and running as of this minute. Time to give this thing a whirl.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top