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Question on how to hook up a naomi to a blast city

jassin000 said:
I still stay if you can only own one IO, no matter what you have for a cab, the Capcom is the way to go.
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If you're going to go that route than the official Sega JAMMA converter is a better option, because it does everything the Capcom IO can do plus has the optional outputs for added compatibility.

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If we're talking about a Blast City specifically then the Sega IOs also give you the option to run the Billboard system which the Capcom IO can't do.... not that anyone cares about that other them me :P
 
Virtual on compatibility would be cool but just going to be a joystick cab. Happy I don't need a new PSU and am in awe of both your guys knowledge. Awesome thread!
 
twistedsymphony said:
If you're going to go that route than the official Sega JAMMA converter is a better option, because it does everything the Capcom IO can do plus has the optional outputs for added compatibility.
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Is that the same one I've seen called (mistakenly?) the "Sega converter" a few times? I've not seen how that is wired in ever, any examples of use?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-conve...391593?hash=item4adc86a569:g:TqYAAOSwxH1UGwMB

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sega-Conve...538449&hash=item25eb879df3:g:xz0AAOSwD39aZmKn
 
the official name is the "Sega JAMMA Converter" similarly the official name of the Capcom IO is the "Capcom JAMMA Converter". those are the names printed on the official documentation for those boards.

Theyre called converters because they do more than just function as an io board they also handle power conversion, audio amplification, and some basic video filtering.

They both hook up the same way too. JAMMA on one side and jvs (via usb, vga, rca, and jvs power connectors) on the other side.
 
So my next question is that the monitor that came with this blast had about 10 years worth of mr driller burn in. I have a tube from a outrun 2 you think I could switch the tubes out and get it working?
 
burn in sucks but candy cabs are VERY picky about the curvature of the screen. Tube or whole monitor swaps can be done but they often require you to make some custom spacers or modify brackets and then you usually end up with gaps around the bezel.

Even with burn-in I wouldn't swap unless it was so bad it distracted from gameplay.
 
Well it seems the tube are basically identical, can't find the maker label for the one it probably got ripped off, but both are 29", the one out of the outrun 2 had a sanwa 29e31s chassis in it and was giving me this awful distortion on bright screen.
 
According to this: https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/w/Nanao_MS-2931#Tube.2FYoke_Information
the tubes that came with the 29E31 have less curvature than the original tube for the MS2930

However, if that's wrong and it is the same model tube then go ahead and do a tube swap. You wont want to use that 29e31 chassis in the blast though as I believe they're VGA only.
 
29E31S has the same curvature as the 2930.

However, I'm pretty sure the yokes don't match.
 
You could yoke swap, it's a massive effort to do so and you could end up with no tubes in the end if you make a mistake. I at least, wouldn't recommend yoke swapping a working tube as your first one. You will need to adjust the yoke after the swap while the tube is powered on, so you need to be comfortable around HV as well.
 
Converging a CRT is easily one of my least favorite activities and something I try to avoid whenever possible.
 
pzlate said:
You could yoke swap, it's a massive effort to do so and you could end up with no tubes in the end if you make a mistake.
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I say practice with free tube TV's from Craigslist first for this reason...
After you have done one successful swap, if you still want to do another I say go for it then.

As mentioned above adjustments must be made while the tube is ON!
If you've never worked with high voltage before, maybe get a life insurance policy for your family going first. :P
 
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