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Rebuilding a cut-down Vewlix C

Jughead

Jughead

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Please let me know if I've assumed too much. I've done so much reading over the past 3 months (and learned a lot, thanks guys) and it's still tough piecing together the life cycle avenues these vewlix machines might take before they get in your hands. I've recently completed all the cosmetic work I have been doing. Also understand that when the electrical stuff goes over my head, I resort to primitive (non integrated) techniques to tackle my issues.

I don't believe the Vewlix C I purchased was not as stock as I thought it was. Originally I thought it was only missing the nesica panel, coin mechanism and entry slot. I couldn't figure out the wiring and thought it was due to my limited knowledge of circuit diagrams. Turns out that wasn't totally true. I believe the person I bought the vewlix from had installed a transformer in the middle of the electric board. 500VA. This sat in between the JVS PSU, 24v and 12v regulators and the noise filter. Further, I was given a "wiped clean" TTx3 I really had no interest in using (modern fighters, classic emus being my main pursuits). Everything in the CP appeared to be stock (JVS L I/O Board, all annotated connectors from the G harness).

I bought a Console I/O v4 for PS5/PC/Switch usage and then started working backwards to figure out all of my power requirements. Now I just want to make sure I strip out what I don't need and keep what I do. I bought a replacement 12v regulator and plan to use that for just the I/O and the marquee led array. Line voltage for the auxiliary receptacles (for replacement monitor and power strip) and the the move strip bulb. My questions are as follows:
  1. Am I assuming correctly that I can bring line voltage directly to the 12v regulator (Meanwell LPS-75-12)?
  2. What is the function of the noise filter? Do I need it?
  3. Can I remove the transformer, Amp PCB assembly, JVS PSU and 24v regulator if I plan to wire the everything else (some usb lights and and fans, AVR receiver) off line voltage?
  4. Also I think I need help reconfiguring the remote power switch(es). But I don't think I'm there yet mentally.
Look- I'm a humble guy and even though I've work hard on this project, I'm okay if my solution is problematic and needs fixing. I just want to make sure I'm not doing anything dangerous electrically. I'm just looking for help. Thanks in advance. Apologies if I left out any critical details. Cheers! ?( :nailbiting: :coldfeet:
 
1. Yes, the Mean Well accepts an input voltage of 90 to 264 VAC. Actually, you could have kept the original 12V TDK-Lambda PSU as well, because it accepts 85-132 VAC.
2. It's there to filter out noise from the AC line. There's no reason to take it out.
3. Depends on the monitor that you are using. If you're keeping the original Sanwa monitor, you need the 24V PSU to power it.

The transformer was likely put in there because of the Wei-ya branded JVS power supply. Unlike the other power supplies, the Wei-ya only works reliably with 100V AC input (or close to it). It's a stepdown transformer, yes?
 
Gonna bump this to the top with a new question as I am almost finished with my refurbishment and customizations.

How can I get my Coin Rejector Assembly running again? Here is the exploded diagram with blue being things I have and red being things I don't have. Not shown- I have the amp pcb assembly I also have purchased a 100 Yen sticker, coin slot and a generic slug acceptor (t-molding.com).

1738609656049.png
 
Can I use this in conjunction with the aforementioned slug acceptor or the original vewlix coin acceptor mechanism to gain back my coin functionality?



1741785467605.png
 
Are you missing the bracket that holds the coin mech? If so, i dont think that will work. edit - i see now what you're missing.. that may work. From the picture it looks like it flips over and goes under the mech... you may want to hit up FrancoB or someone who can design and 3D print the parts you're missing.
 
Mirkvid said:
Are you missing the bracket that holds the coin mech? If so, i dont think that will work. edit - i see now what you're missing.. that may work. From the picture it looks like it flips over and goes under the mech... you may want to hit up FrancoB or someone who can design and 3D print the parts you're missing.
Click to expand...
I can confirm that I am missing #23 which I believe is the rejector plus the bracket you are talking about. @FrancoB, any thoughts on this?
 
Coin mechs are cheap, check the for sale section or ebay for an Asahi Seiko mech. The other parts are harder to find but hopefully someone can model and print what you're missing.
 
Jughead said:
I can confirm that I am missing #23 which I believe is the rejector plus the bracket you are talking about. @FrancoB, any thoughts on this?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure all of those parts can be 3D printed. #22 for example is only 0.5mm thick.

Have you tried sticking a wanted up for those parts? Maybe try someone like Mo @ Videotronics too in case they are or have parted out a cab?

Is getting replacement parts from Taito an option?
 
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