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2025 is the year of plastic production. Injection molding to start things off and push my way into vacuum forming as the year progresses.

Bunch of good ideas over in the sister thread here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...tic-parts-are-we-missing-in-this-hobby.32361/

Sourced an LS-30 knob and cap (though still need to find one to color match) but plan to do the DDR pad sensor spacers that @twistedsymphony suggested first as it looks very baby's first injection molding project and should help to kick off funding the remaining vacuum bed parts.

Just wanted to start a thread for all the fun future projects to come this year.
 
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Sounds like a great plan bud, curious to see what kind of projects you kick off. Any pics of the stuff you're going to be working with?
 
I have this one for years, hoping some day reproductions would be cheap and in same quality (not 3D printed), to use in all my cps1 boards
IMG_2952.jpeg



Mine has the small bottom part, intended to be used with small mobos, but a larger one also exists for bigger ones.

Games with kick harness connector on the C board wouldn’t be a problem if a hole is placed conveniently.
 
I have this one for years, hoping some day reproductions would be cheap and in same quality (not 3D printed), to use in all my cps1 boards
IMG_2952.jpeg



Mine has the small bottom part, intended to be used with small mobos, but a larger one also exists for bigger ones.

Games with kick harness connector on the C board wouldn’t be a problem if a hole is placed conveniently.
That's an ideal part for vacuum forming . That's how the originals were made. The longer variant just has a longer bottom board which is just a flat piece of plastic with holes in it. the top is the same on the longer variant.

I have a few of these myself but they only fit a few cps1 games. Anything with c board connectors (like street fighter 2, knights of the round, mercs etc) won't fit. And neither will boards fitted with the cps 1 infinity key
 
That's an ideal part for vacuum forming . That's how the originals were made. The longer variant just has a longer bottom board which is just a flat piece of plastic with holes in it. the top is the same on the longer variant.

I have a few of these myself but they only fit a few cps1 games. Anything with c board connectors (like street fighter 2, knights of the round, mercs etc) won't fit. And neither will boards fitted with the cps 1 infinity key
Yeah, I didn’t realize that the kick harness connector isn’t the only thing to take into account, but also the size of the C board having it.

A small redesign of the top piece, specially making that square a bit taller and wider, which is where the C boards is placed, would work.

I dunno if changing that is really a feasible thing
 
2025 is the year of plastic production. Injection molding to start things off and push my way into vacuum forming as the year progresses.

Bunch of good ideas over in the sister thread here:
https://www.arcade-projects.com/thr...tic-parts-are-we-missing-in-this-hobby.32361/

Sourced an LS-30 knob and cap (though still need to find one to color match) but plan to do the DDR pad sensor spacers that @twistedsymphony suggested first as it looks very baby's first project injection molding project and should help to kick off funding the remaining vacuum bed parts.

Just wanted to start a thread for all the fun future projects to come this year.
Very cool to see this. If you need any parts for testing / measuring let me know. I have LS-30s and a DDR cab if you need anything specific. Also happy to test junk for you as well. Can;t wait to see what you're able to do!
 
Sourced an LS-30 knob and cap (though still need to find one to color match)
What does that mean? I you sourced one, can't you use it to color match?

I have a ton a of these, including some NOS ones if you need any help, let me know. I'd love to get ton more caps to fix all the ones I'm missing.
 
I you sourced one, can't you use it to color match?
It's WILDLY faded. Like JP game store left a game in the window since 1992 and now there's no red or yellow left on the packaging faded! It's the palest one I've ever seen. But the logo's intact and that's all that really matters! I appreciate your offer, and will keep it in mind!

Very cool to see this. If you need any parts for testing / measuring let me know. I have LS-30s and a DDR cab if you need anything specific. Also happy to test junk for you as well. Can;t wait to see what you're able to do!
Thank you! If you've got any other DDR part needs, let me know, ha. Those are small and easy to do runs of. Even with my hobbyist toolset.
Sounds like a great plan bud, curious to see what kind of projects you kick off. Any pics of the stuff you're going to be working with?

I ended up passing on the commercial injection machine because the model numbers are all wonky and it turns out it is only good for about 0.7cubic inches more material per shot than the one I ended up paying for this morning (and doesn't require rewiring, moving a 1500lb machine, and takes up less space). Nothing super fancy, but I snagged a BusterBeagle3D mk4 injector with extended barrel and pnuematic vise.

Should be fine for most of the toy stuff I wanted, and will easily knock out these few projects as well. Tons of others as well, I'm sure, but won't be seeing PGM carts or anything. Maybe CPS3 ones as they're not much bigger than a famicom cart if memory serves. I did see folks making big chonky glasses rims with it quite successfully, so I know that one way or another it'll pay for itself. And a bunch of folks have automated them, so it should be pretty fun to put together and start using.

That's an ideal part for vacuum forming . That's how the originals were made. The longer variant just has a longer bottom board which is just a flat piece of plastic with holes in it. the top is the same on the longer variant.
This is the stuff I *really* want to get into. These, monitor bezels, lots of different CP areas, etc. I'm excited to mess with injection molding for toy repro parts for things I can't seem to find to save my life, and will happily knock out projects with it to pay for building the vacuum bed. Still can't believe how pricey some bits are. Covid really did a number on anything you'd buy through Grainger, etc.

I got down this rabbithole from seeing a reproduction Grendizer Spazer a gent made online (they usually run north of $10k) and it looks remarkably close to the real thing. I've missed a couple opportunities at buying one of his repros in the past few years, and figured I could make my own.

Anyway, that lead into what he used for a vacuum bed, buying a set of plans, buying half the parts, now at a standstill needing to buy some very pricey parts unless offerup gives me a deal. Have space for a 2x4 bed, but electricity may limit me to 2x3, but even that's big enough for 95% of arcade uses, and is just about the right size for making my own version of the Spazer! For a bit of scale, Grendizer's about 24.5 inches tall.


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I bought a pretty serious vacuum forming machine a number of years ago to make repo plastic control panels for Sega Flash Beats (I'm pretty sure I have a thread here on AP about it). I've never been able to use the machine because it required 240V and my garage isn't wired for it, and I never pursued that because I was never able to source the right plastic to make those parts... unfortunately. From what I've gathered for clear parts you want to use PETG and for opaque parts ABS is preferred. sheets of black textured ABS and clear (uncolored) PTEG seem to be not too bad to source. My issue is I needed a specific shade of blue and the correct thickness, neither of which I could find in PETG.

the replica prop forums seems to be the best source of vacuum forming info I've found, and there are a few pinball guys making repro ramps that have some decent info but it's been REALLY difficult finding info on materials and techniques for this tech.

Edit: found the thread: https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/vacuum-formed-part-reproduction.14046/
 
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I was working in a plant with vacuum forming. We had modelist for vacuum mold. In wood (medium wood not sure if the english) and resin. They had to make the mold and drill it with holes for the vacuum. We had Big black plastic sheet. I think i Can return there someday to have infos.
 
I've never been able to use the machine because it required 240V and my garage isn't wired for it
We've got a 40amp 240v line, but the 4 foot bed would require a 60amp. Our electrician is booked out for a few weeks, but whether we have the underlying wiring to support upgrading the breaker or not will determine the bed size. Either way should be good for up to 1/4" thick ABS (and I'd assume thicker PETG). I'd imaging when you're doing this sort of work as a big business you can order up things in specific colors since you'd be working in such bulk. Not as easy for you or I. Maybe the answer is dying if you could at least get white? If not, I guess sand, paint, finish, but what a hassle.

I've done a bit of smaller vacuum work, 12"x12". So I at least get the concept. And yes! @Brakvader wood with holes in it is perfect. I'm willing to bet my bottom dollar that large format 3D prints (in high-temp resin) would work perfectly. ABS liquifies in the 240-260C range, things like Siraya High Temp Ultrawhite, and Rigid 10k can withstand 240-250C. You're just looking for when the plastic sheet starts to droop a bit, so not being liquid yet the ABS would be well under the 240C range, and not harm the mold.
 
Well, I'm a big idiot and will probably be bringing home a vacuum bed with a 31" x 48" working area.

It seems to be that if I run the vacuum pump on a separate breaker from the rest of it, I should be fine. Still need to purchase a single to three phase converter, and I'd like to rewire the heaters in banks so I don't have to have the entire 4 feet running if I want to make a 12x12 part.

Best part is I get to cut it in half, and weld it back together inside the shop since I don't have garage doors or anything!

On the upside, the entire ordeal will cost less than half just buying a pump for the one I was building.

Pin ramps I think are what will make this venture profitable. I can fill a niche, and then be able to justify the time spent on smaller production runs of things people are interested in here and my own bad ideas.
 
There is a really good thread on Pinside about learning and adventures in pinball ramp vacuforming, I'll try and dig it up for you. My friend's dad turned it into a bit of a retirement hobby and got quite good at it. But also documented along the way.
 
Thanks!

I'm going to start with the two pins I own, and go from there. I also want to get done that lefthand mountain range on Rescue 911.
 
Dug up.

This link is for just his posts so you can ignore all the noise of people asking him for Game X.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps?tu=freeplay40

Lots of photos of his journey, his setup, bucks, dyeing PETG etc, hopefully it's helpful to at least skim through.
Fantastic. I'll read through most of this this weekend.

I already have my first gig for this thing. Local and all-around good guy Kaboom over on KLOV has a mold and everything for a run of steering shrouds that were done a few years back. Easy, small, and should be good to learn to use the machine on.
 
I have this one for years, hoping some day reproductions would be cheap and in same quality (not 3D printed), to use in all my cps1 boards
Been looking at this a bit. Wonder how you'd go about the grill holes on the side.

Could you take a pic of it flipped upside down?

@Battlesmurf no rush at all, but can you lmk the outer dimensions of the Pony monitor shrouds? And do you have one to begin with?
 
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