Restoration almost done !

[erzane]

Hello there !

These are some pics of my NAC dating from the days after its reception in December 2021. They shows my work on the cash panel and the rear cabinet at the workshop of a friend of mine in order to be ready for the painting. Maybe the following tips will be usefull for those who wants to restorate that cab in near future :

Starting with a no 350 sanding paper allows you to do a quick and strong job by removing all the varnish. Since the no 350 is strong and leaves marks and reliefs, you will have to finish the job with a no 500, this later will leave a more smooth surface. You can remove all the painting on some areas if you feel there are some bumps or deep wounds.

You certainly will have a lot of yellow dust, that’s why you should use a blowing gun during all the sanding process to clean your area and make a proper job without leaving any dust anywhere since sanding on dust will makes your work longer and harder. As you can see, the yellow dust is in quite big amount. If you don’t have a blowing gun, use a brush to collect dust before sanding another area. A paddle is also very usefull. It will give you some confort and support. It exists in different smoothness and size adapted to each areas.

If your fingers are too thick, you can still use a platic smooth spatula to make the angles. Take time to sand the doors area too and all corners. Once the sanding process is finished, you will get a clean and smooth surface everywhere. There is less quantity of painting inside (only off-spray) and no varnish, but the inside needs a bigger amount of work since there are a lot of corners and tricky areas. I also did use some ''Scotchbright'' at the very end (mine corresponded to no 800). Once done, use the blowing gun, then clean the whole stuff with some alcool.

Do not use a too high sanding paper (for ex. no 1200). The surface should be still rough because the painting have a better adherence on ruggish surface. So, no 800 is the maximum I suggest you to work with if you're picky.

Later, I'll post more details of the preliminar work. Stay tuned !

 

[erzane]

To complete the preliminary work, I used some special mastic conditionned in a heat gun to fill up a few little holes, cracks and porosity generated by the molding process of the shell.

The shell is composed by Epoxy, a red resin also used to make the boats shells. When heated at a certain temperature, the Epoxy begins black and take its final form. If you use a light, you can see trough the shell and notify the redness and the transparency of the resin.

You can also fix some little cuts made at the time by the manufacturer and based on the top corners of the front panel, near the speaker cover. You will find a lot of imperfections on the Epoxy. It’s not a big deal to fill them up but will take extra time.

I also used some mastic to fill up bigger holes piercing the shell at the top of the rear cabinet, right under the neon. Once the resine is dry (it dries quick but I always waited a day before working on it to be sure it adheres well), use a no 120 sanding paper since the mastic is very hard when dry. Then, finish the job with a no 350 and finalize with a no 500. The resine will be entirely plane and holes will be filled properly.

 

[erzane]

I also used mastic to redo both locking holes based on the cash panel's upper area in order to make them smaller. I wanted to make some esthetic modifications on these holes, by improving them in the way to fill up what I've consider like an unseless space due the oblique cut. I guess if I'd have the opportunity to restore another Astro, I'd leave the holes asis. Maybe the oblique cut had a purpose but until now I didn't find out why these holes were done that way.

Also, there is a red brick surface under the cash panel base. This layer is ruggish and hard to remove. Since it’s a large plane surface, I opted for an electric rotating sanding machine. I used a no 350 sanding paper to make it proper. It was much more easy to remove that way. As you can see, the red layer was added to the main varnish since there are white areas under the red surface. I didn’t find any informations about that red layer, but maybe it’s a kind of isolation to protect the electronic parts based on the basement of the cash panel (in the case of a water damage).
I didn’t put that layer back. If you want to add it, I guess this layer should be added with a painting roll. Anyway, once the red layer was entirely removed I finished the area with a no 500 sanding paper as usual.

Regarding the rear cabinet, I had several stripes on both left and right corners all along the vertical line. It wasen't easy to remove these. I still don't know why these stripes was there and never saw them on any Astro before.

 

[JohnRambo'sKnife]

Great work. Can you share the mastic product you used?

 

[erzane]

> John : If I go back to the workshop one of these days I will for sure. Unfortunately I haven't took a pic of the gun at the time. Don't remember its name neither.

Let's move on and let's see the cab coming out from covering :

Usually, most parts are varnished outside and covered with off-spray inside. This time, I wanted both control panel base and cash panel a mate cover.

At the origine, the inside of the cash panel is full off-spray but I guess a home cab has to be adapted to a personal use. At the time, it doesen't matter how the inside looked in since the player never had a chance to have a look inthere and the manager didn't care. But leaving the basement and the CP area off-spray is not very convenient for a home use since these areas are more exposed to dirt, we often swap games and open the CP and we like to put things under and may want to keep it clean right ? I didn't wanted them varnished because I find it excessively garishness and I like to have a smooth texture inside. That's why I opted for an uniformised mate cover which allows to handle the boards and the harness and preserves the authenticity of the inside.

Regarding the control panel base, it's composed by a white resine (not Epoxy) and suffers mostly from cracks and cigarette burns. The CP base is more authentic by its natural texture - without any painting - but it's impossible to restore that part whitout covering it. Bruns are too bad and cracks are too deep in some places. The solution was once again the mate painting, but this time integraly - inside and outside too. I was suprised about the result since it looks natural and differs clearely from the varnished side of the cash panel. And that's what I was after : having a different texture / visual than the rest of the cab since at the origin, the panel base did also had a different look / texture because of its nature. Btw, mate cover can be applied in different ways including thickness and texture. If you use a machine to capture the color and choose the correct amount of painting you surely will have something nice.

As for the front panel and the rear cabinet, nothing special to say, they just need to be varnished outside and covered by the the off-spray inside, leaving it spreading itself without insisting anywhere else.

Btw, you can also use the mastic to fill up the big long cracks you can find inside the rear cabinet on both tubes holding the monitor bracket.

Tomorrow I'll go further with some hardware. Stay tuned !

 

[JohnRambo'sKnife]

This is on a totally different level than most. Better than factory at every corner.

 

[erzane]

Thanks John

Let's move to the hardware :

Since the leg adjuster bracket (CQN-1331) is in inox, it can be brushed and polished until it looks brand new. So, no need to replace that part, hopefuly.

Regarding the leg adjusters (601-6076), they was so rusty that I couldn't do anything to save them. You cannot open them and if you want to make them replated asis it's risky since the plating includes acid at the end of the process and the acid can stay inside the tricky areas during an indefinite time then escape anytime. It's impossible to remove all the acid if you cannot open such an assembly. If the acid escapes by accident and spraid all over your ground it can cause several damages.

Fortunately, the leg adjusters are still produced. These are common in the amusement industry. They also exists in inox but the finition is darker, that's why I opted for the ''chrome'' version which appears to be exactly the same as the ones used by Sega and fits to the adjuster bracket color finition. Maybe Sega didn't choose the inox (stainless) in order to save money due to the number of cabs produced during years. Anyway, I guess the chrome will not rust in a home environnment so easily than it did in gamecenters.

Ps. there are several stainless types and color variations on inox so I consider choosing stainless steel leg adjusters is not a good choice since several differences of finition between your bracket and your leg adjuster would be noticed in that case.

The plates (CQN-1329), can be easily replated. I brang all the metalic parts to a steel manufacture where they apply an electrolytic bath process to all metalic parts. You can choose the plating you want : yellow, blue, or even black.

At the time, I opted to only replace smaller screws and nuts, thinking that the bigger ones can be still replated, but I'm in the process to buy also the biggest. In fact, the plating looks good on the main parts (plates, cash box cover, monitor brackets, bd holder, etc...) but on smaller parts like screws and nuts it looks too clear. The original plating of the screws and the nuts is much darker. I'm on the way to receive some brand new M6 nuts for these plates, so I'll update a pic of the plate with new nuts when they arrived.

Ps. ''blue'' plating is applyed to a few metalic parts presents inside the cash panel. It's called ''blue'' (or 3Cr) because is shows blue reflects.

 

[erzane]

Regading the cash box cover - CQN-1305 - and the coin meter brkt - CQN-130, three rivets are needed to hold the bracket.
First, add the coin meter to the bracket, then connect it to the panel mount hole based on the back of the cover, then install the bracket.
Don't forget to connect the counter first because if you swap that step you'll be good to remove the rivets with a drill with the risk to damage the cover. So, drilling is not a worry when the cover isn't plated yet but then if you damage it that's bad.

You'll have some difficulties to find a brand new ''panel mount'' type counter but there is an alternative : get a similar counter, open it, extract the mech, then swap it with the former panel mount type case counter. The case is easy to clean so you'll notice no difference (you can still reprint the sticker).
Ps. do not forget to swap the little pvc window too.

 

[erzane]

I also found some brand new cash box (253-5366) and a few 5380 locks (220-5380) in pretty good shape. These later are unfortunately discontinued since about more than a year.

The plastic tongue based on the coin chute bracket (CQN-1324) was hardly altered and faded into a deep orange color with time. When I tryed to extract it, it suddenly broke. This part is delicate when exposed to heat and smoke, it dries and lose its flexibility. As far as I know, no way to get a brand new tongue sololy, but fortunately I found a brand new brakcet coming with a micro switch and a tongue. Originally, the bracket is yellow plated but I'll leave it asis since I don't see the point to replate an original part.

Ps. the screws holding the cash box door (CQN-1304) and the frame cash box (CQN-1302) should be yellow plated. I'll udpate this as soon I as get them.

 

[erzane]

CP base (CQN-1051)

I bought a Sega 100Y coin entry (220-5428-01) to fit the CP base (CQN-1051). Its color isn't white but a kind of light grey. These are also available on steel (the steel coin entry is more heavy).

I asked a glass factory to make a reproduction of the instruction cover (CQN-1052). They made an identical replica of the original. The cut is exactly the same, including the angles shape.

The stude plates (CQN-1057) are chrome plated. The lock brackets (CQN-1053) and the locking tongues (CQN-1311) are zinc yellow plated (6Cr).

Originaly, there is no spacer (CQN-1312) covering the left sides locking hole but I found another genuine spacer that I cutted into a square in order to fit that spot.

I added some adhesive labels to protect the threaded areas based on the CP base during the painting.

Ps. as you probably already know, Ive talked with Sanwa concerning my will to reload the production of their original 1L6B inox control panel. Pls check this thread : https://www.arcade-projects.com/threads/collective-inquiry-to-sanwa.27619/
Sanwa accepts a lower MOQ than 100 pces but the price will be adjusted proportionally to the qty we want to order. So, if you're interested to get one or more of these, let me know. I'm now asking Sanwa how much would be the price for a MOQ of 70 pces. This way, we can get an aproximation in the case we want to order 70 pces, but we could also order only 50 pces, having a higher unit price. The unit price for a MOQ of 100 pces would be only 45$. I'll let you know once I got a reply.

 

[garou81]

2 quick questions, first when sanding what is the theory/philosophy, Clearly you dont sand until all the paint is removed. Im going to attempt this but I never see this detail fully explained.

Second do you use a primer why or why not?

 

[erzane]

2 quick questions, first when sanding what is the theory/philosophy, Clearly you dont sand until all the paint is removed. Im going to attempt this but I never see this detail fully explained.

Second do you use a primer why or why not?

Regarding the external side of the shell, the purpose of an abrasive sanding is about to remove the varnish. You can leave some painting under the varnish if you want since that old layer (even if it's multi-layered) is so thin that the new cover will not be affected. If you check the remaining layer in a microscope, you'll probably see a scaling like volume but this later is so thin that you will not even feel it with your fingers, neither even once the new layer will be applied. So, if you add the primary, then the painting, then the varnish (maybe there will be extra layers added too, this you should ask to the painter), you will not feel any difference. That's why there is no need to remove all the painting. But you have to remove all the varnish since its a smooth surface and you can't add any painting on such a smooth surface.

So, you have to remove the varnish with a no 350 since it has an abrasive power which permits to remove the varnish quicker and more efficiently. Then, use a less abrasive paper like a no 500 because you have to make the surface ruggish enough to make the adherance of new layers possible, but not too ruggish since it may be some scraches left. A medium ruggish surface left by a no 500 is ruggish enough but still homogenic but a high ruggish surface left by a no 350 (or a no 150) will leave scratches that you will probably notice under the new layer.
So, it's not a philosophy but an matter of adherance at this point. If you don't sand the surface you want to use then this will be too smooth which means no adherance and the stability of your painting will be reduced since the molecules of your painting needs a ruggish enough surface to adhere proper.

Regarding the inside of the shell, I removed all the painting there because there was only a little amount of painting (off-spray) but several pits, cracks, holes and scratches. I had to make a bigger effort to get a more regular surface and use sometimes some no 150 paper. Then I applied progressively some no 350, no 500 and even a no 1200 to recover an homogenic surface. Once the job was done, the surface was so smooth that I was afraind that the off-spray will not adhere but hopefully this wasen't the case. So, it seems that a surface receiving only off-spray can be sanded at 1200. Btw, even if the inside is only off-spray, I think that the painter added a primary too. Anyway, the inside is more delicate and it's up to you to manage which paper you will use.

Also, the reason why I did remove all the painting at some places on the external side of the shell too is because there was some cracks or pits somewhere which had to be removed to make the surface more homogenic/regular (a few issues that you'll probably encounter in bigger amount in the inside), that's the only reason.

Hope this helps

 

[Mukuro_W]

May I know the color paint? Candy White LB9A 2K?

 

[erzane]

Sorry but I don't know the color reference. If I go to the workshop I'll ask and will let you know (I guess this spring).