Resurrecting a Daytona 2 twin!!

[Hackcell]

After the feedback received in the forum and reading some websites, I've decided is wiser to resurrect/restore this D2 twin.

After a quick review, everything except the neck board of one of monitors is in place: even no burn in the monitors and no signals of work performed in one of the Nanao chasis.
I still have to open the model 3 PCBs to see the status of it. Given the modest price I paid for everything (less than 300 dollars including shipping) I can’t complain.

ps... this thing is HEAVY.

More updates coming soon...

 

[Hackcell]

Checking 1st board:

Everything seems to be there. To my delight, this is a PE board.

The only concern I have is the security board.

Hopefully is not damaged.

ps, does anybody makes repros of this stickers?

 

[Hackcell]

Board #2:
Looks much better than the first one:

What’s next?

Checking the PSUs before using one alongside a 19 inch lcd WG monitor, which is (in theory) capable of output 24khz resolutions. For each fully functional board, I’ll paint the model 3 cage in indigo (a la Naomi) and upgrade the fans.


Needless to say, any feedback or experience concerning this kind of restorations is more than welcome.

 

[nem]

I thought it didn't come with the boards? Did you get lucky?

Just plug it in as is. I wouldn't bother testing things separately. Turn it on, see what happens. Check voltages and adjust as necessary.

Monitors (should be MS9-29) will need calibrating and most likely a recap is due. Steering wheel, pedals and shifter I would pull apart to clean and regrease. However, more than likely all the hardware will be good. Model 2 / 3 era HW was really well built.

 

[Hackcell]

I thought it didn't come with the boards? Did you get lucky?

Just plug it in as is. I wouldn't bother testing things separately. Turn it on, see what happens. Check voltages and adjust as necessary.

Monitors (should be MS9-29) will need calibrating and most likely a recap is due. Steering wheel, pedals and shifter I would pull apart to clean and regrease. However, more than likely all the hardware will be good. Model 2 / 3 era HW was really well built.

ridiculously lucky, I'd say

Any suggestions for a good place to get the cap kits?

 

[nem]

No idea. I always map out the caps myself and order what is needed.

You might need rubber stoppers for the steering wheel and the shifter. Those usually wear out.

Anyway, plug it in already will you!

 

[Hackcell]

I'll plug it on Satuday.

As I'm located in Costa Rica and getting spare parts can be a pain (economically) by ordering in batches, I have to check for these rubber stoppers, cap kits and any other well known "tend to fail" component and ordering everything at once. Better to have the spare parts at hand than having to wait for 2 weeks.

 

[Hackcell]

Well, f*ck.... one of the 2 PSUs is dead, so I have to start checking what’s wrong with it.

Concerning the boards, their fans are too noisy and both boards are returning either a blank or a red screen.

The LEDs in both ROM and comm boards are not blinking, and both return the same pattern.

Any ideas?

 

[nem]

The fans are pretty bad, yeah. You can unplug them for now. Model 3 can be somewhat finicky when moved around. A black screen is likely a connection issue. Start by pulling apart the board stack and then putting everything back.

Have you checked voltages? What does 3.3V and 5V show?

 

[Hackcell]

3.31 and 5.1

 

[nem]

Those are fine.

What did you output the video to? The WG LCD monitor? There is always the possibility that your monitor isn't compatible with the 24khz video signal and the game board is actually running fine.

This is a good reason to always test everything inside the original cabinet. No video? There's still audio, the buttons on the dash board that light up and even feedback from the steering wheel to fall back on to know that the board is running. If none of those were working and the voltages were OK, then yeah, it would likely be a motherboard issue.

 

[Ringo]

Nice score man!
Those are Japanese built cabs, by far the best build quality of all regions.

As Nem has said, it may be that your monitor isn't compatible with 24khz signals. A chreap gonbes 8200 will convert 24khz to VGA if you suspect the monitor cannot handle 24khz.

Please check that the voltages stay at those volts when under load. Model 3 PSU's are very flakey now due to their age and can cause instability issues when powering up, sometimes it takes a couple of power cycles for the game to boot correctly and they have been known to trip the fuses in people's house power supply consumer unit.

You may be able to get one working stack out of the 2 if you are lucky. Number each board in each stack and swap them over to see if you get signs of life. Sometimes reseating everything can help, roms/boards/filter boards connectors etc.

No display can be CPU board, usually if the CPU board is good then you should see some writing or something when it first boots. If there are glitches in the graphics then that is usually the video board.

In my stacks I first swap out the noisy original fans for Noctua redux fans, good airflow and nice and quiet.

Good luck man, subscribing to this thread.

 

[Hackcell]

Those are fine.

What did you output the video to? The WG LCD monitor? There is always the possibility that your monitor isn't compatible with the 24khz video signal and the game board is actually running fine.

This is a good reason to always test everything inside the original cabinet. No video? There's still audio, the buttons on the dash board that light up and even feedback from the steering wheel to fall back on to know that the board is running. If none of those were working and the voltages were OK, then yeah, it would likely be a motherboard issue.

The monitor supports 24 khz. After a word with Ken @irepairsega, he asked me to check the capacitors @ the CPU board. We'll see later today once I come home.

 

[Hackcell]

Nice score man!
Those are Japanese built cabs, by far the best build quality of all regions.

As Nem has said, it may be that your monitor isn't compatible with 24khz signals. A chreap gonbes 8200 will convert 24khz to VGA if you suspect the monitor cannot handle 24khz.

Please check that the voltages stay at those volts when under load. Model 3 PSU's are very flakey now due to their age and can cause instability issues when powering up, sometimes it takes a couple of power cycles for the game to boot correctly and they have been known to trip the fuses in people's house power supply consumer unit.

You may be able to get one working stack out of the 2 if you are lucky. Number each board in each stack and swap them over to see if you get signs of life. Sometimes reseating everything can help, roms/boards/filter boards connectors etc.

No display can be CPU board, usually if the CPU board is good then you should see some writing or something when it first boots. If there are glitches in the graphics then that is usually the video board.

In my stacks I first swap out the noisy original fans for Noctua redux fans, good airflow and nice and quiet.

Good luck man, subscribing to this thread.

Thanks! Crossing my fingers I can get at least one fully working. Then I only have to buy one extra to have the twins working.

 

[Ringo]

They are awesome cabs as you can play quite a few games on the machine without much hassle.
I restored one a while back that was in poor condition, your cab looks in great shape!

Daytona 2 really does push the hardware though, I've had boards I thought were 100% show glitches when running Daytona 2. I hope you are lucky and you can get it up and running without much hassle.

 

[model3man]

Got a scrapped Daytona USA2 stack running. It was very cranky until I booted the CPU board alone in a different, working stack, and told me the RTC battery was flat.

Replaced the CR2032 and does power up and run. Sometimes it will not boot, sometimes at hangs at the startup text. I am going to recap the CPU board (and the other boards as well) and see if it improves the reliability.


My PSU is a 450W ATX supply into a custom harness I built, it runs the other stack flawlessly.


I've noticed the supercaps on these boards tend to leak, and the goo will be etching away the bus around the security board and comms board. I think within years most of the boards running will be corroded because of this supercap, so it's time to change them.