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Rhythm Tengoku Panel!

skate323k137

skate323k137

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I wanted a rhythm tengoku panel... so I made one.

Thanks @codecrank for blank panels and advice on tooling. I used cobalt drill bits for pilot, and qmax style knock out punch for button holes. Pushbuttons are generic lighted pushbuttons with cherry switches.

iwipt8p.jpg


More pictures and such: https://imgur.com/gallery/4ovU0

Now the fun part... to trace the illumination wiring to see if I can use a type3 IO for game-controlled button lights. (And an overlay, obviously. not sure what I want to do for that yet.)
 
Outside of Time said:
Looks amazing. Are you going to make an overlay for the panel too?
Click to expand...
I will, but not sure what I want to do for art yet. Main priority right now is tracing illumination wiring to see if it works right on the netboot version. The game is totally playable, and I have a backup easy way to wire lights(*), but I also have the type 3 IO to "do it right" if the software works.

(*) worst case, I wire one side of each light bulb to 12v then ground each bulb to the normally closed post on each buttons microswitch. That way all buttons will be lit and each one will turn off only when (and while) pressed.
 
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Type 3 IO outputs do toggle!

I didn't map them out yet but they appear in a logical order from test menu

however I don't know how to use this... they toggle between floating and ground. I.e. if I leave a probe on GND, and check the outputs, they're either floating (NC) or 0v (ground.) Should I tie that to one post on the light and put the flip side to the voltage I need? (5 or 12)? Never done these before.
 
net city answered my question. I found outputs 1 thru 6 from the type1 io on a 8 pin plug with 12v and no gnd. Stand by...
 
skate323k137 said:
(*) worst case, I wire one side of each light bulb to 12v then ground each bulb to the normally closed post on each buttons microswitch. That way all buttons will be lit and each one will turn off only when (and while) pressed.
Click to expand...
don't do that.

tie one end of each bulb to 12V and the other end to the appropriate lamp output from the I/O board. the outputs on the PCB should be enough to power buttons lamps or LEDs... if you're going to power something larger than that (like say neons, higher power bulbs or a large LED array) then you'd need to tie the output to a relay or mosfet.

IIRC on this game you don't need the Type 3 I/O, it will power the outputs for as many otuput pins as your Type 1 I/O supports, the only question is if all of them are properly covered in the type 1 or if you'll need the extra output port on the Type 3 to cover all the buttons.
 
I'm all working with a type3 IO. I'll post pics and info in a bit.

I only cheated the lamp wiring like that on my bishi bashi panel because my net city side rails are about maxed out with looms.
 
I think in one of the other RT threads someone posted a list of which output is associated with what lamp.
 
Illumination wiring was (mostly) straightforward. I never did find a thread with it documented so I just traced it out. Thanks for reaffirming I should just run 12v to all the bulbs and then use the "outputs" for the ground connections. It makes a lot of sense actually.

First I made myself a cable to hook to the cab. One end was DB15 (to hook to the panel) with outputs 1-14 on pins 1-14 and 12v on pin 15. The other end was split to an 8 pin AMP and 20pin (AMP RA?) connector for the type 3 IO.

The net city had a female 8 pin AMP connector from the old type1. Its pinout was basically 12v on pin1, and 6 outputs on pins 2-7 (in what order, I have no idea). So basically, I wired pins 1-6 of the dsub to the amp up for that connector, as well as the 12v which I threw on pin 15. Then output pins 7-14 went to the 20 pin connector for the type 3 IO's additional outputs.

Output number wise they traced out like this (*)

1 - 1P START
2 - 1P DOWN
3 - 2P START (WTF)
4 - 1P LEFT
5 - 1P UP
6 - 1P RIGHT
-
7 - 1P A
8 - 1P B
9 - 2P UP
10 - 2P DOWN
11 - 2P LEFT
12 - 2P RIGHT
13 - 2P A
14 - 2P B

(*)I'm guessing the net city output connector for 1-6 isn't in numerical order, given outputs 7-14 are in the same order as the test menu. I just turned on one light at a time in test mode to map those out real quick.

Thankfully, it was TOTALLY WORTH IT. The lights don't do anything in attract mode, aside from light up if you push a button. But in game mode, they illuminate based on the game you're playing to show you what buttons are "legal" to press. Super helpful on new games or remix mode.

20171019_233849.jpg


20171020_010524.jpg


20171020_013227_HDR.jpg
 
Well damn, these bulbs are drawing just a little too heavy on the poor sun PSU's 12v.

I think I'll try replacing them with LEDs, perhaps save some power draw. The game will crash if 2 players are on a game that uses all the buttons, and give an IO comm error. 1p on either side is fine all the time, so I know it's gotta be the lamps doing it. I just ordered some 12v LED replacements that supposedly should significantly lower the power draw.
 
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where are you pulling 12V? even the lower specced SUN PSUs are rated for 2A on the 12V rail and AFAIK nothing else uses that other than the cooling fan.

even still, LEDs are probably a good idea.
 
I was pulling 12v from 2 different pins on the IO essentially (by way of factory loom / ext plug in the cp). It was definitely causing random crashing, which is weird. As you say I don't think anything else really uses it... maybe it was affecting the 3.3 or 5v rail. My meter didn't indicate it, but it crashed similar to trying to power a netdimm with capcom IO (load intensive time, lots of bulbs lit, game crashes).

To test my theory I moved the lamps to the 5v pins on each players amp up for now, since the sun has plenty of amps for 5v. The game has run fine in 2p for a few rounds now with no crashing. Once the 12v leds come in I'll give those a shot too, since 5v is dim (but stable and playable so that's sweet).

edit... 12v 161 bulbs look to be about .2 amps... 10 lights = 2 amps = no more 12 v. Makes sense >_<
 
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damn... didn't realize those bulbs drew that much.

I wonder if the RT cabs uses the 400-5443 PSU instead of the 400-5397, the 5443 supplies 4A over 12V (5V and 3.3V rails are beefed up too).
 
Hey man! Awesome stuff dude, I can't believe I missed this thread before :cool:

I've been wanting to get this working for years. I suspected that a Type 3 IO might be used due to the extra outputs required with the Type 1 doesn't have, I'm so glad it works! I feared it might use a separate light driver IO board so I'm really happy to see the Type 3 will drive everything on it's own :smile:

I managed to pick up a Type 3 IO a few years back so I'm all sorted there and I managed to get it netbooting ok (thanks so much darksoft! :D )

Thanks so much for documenting the pinout, that will be a great help.

I'm planning to use it on my mini cabs and I had a bit of time to mock up a couple of 'vs' panels:

Rhythm_Panels-X2.png


(Bonus Bishi Bashi Vs panels below ^^ )

I'm planning to use the CCFL outputs to drive some other LEDs on the cab too. Can't wait to bring it all together :thumbsup:
 
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